Search results

Yes, my 208wh battery manages up to 28 miles with no assist above 25km/h.

Can't remember the thread pitch but you need m12 nuts, but double check as some are m14...

Kalkhoff with Impulse drive is as reliable as a Carrera with Suntour drive.

Basic Sans charger. https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/basic-sans-charger-mods-adjustments.33613/

SInce #1 I have reduced charge voltage to 41v and although at first carried out a balance charge every couple of months which worked out about every 6th or 7th charge per battery as I alternate two batteries. I haven't yet to balance the batteries to 42v this year and am not seeing any issues...

Standing or sitting it matters not the hands at rest sit at the same angle.

Being within 1v is no good at all all my cheap ones read to 0.01 or 0.02v as well and agree with my lcd3 voltage reading.

I now simply charge to 41v for my 36v batteries and 53.3 for 48v , I adjust the voltage pot to 41v and that's it. So far this year I haven't seen any change in battery use with mileage or cut outs so cells are relatively remaining well balanced, my main use bike uses a simple KT lcd with basic...

If the display is ok then no need to worry about a fuse, worth checking the voltage meters are cheap. Most likely the torque sensing might be the issue, the system in the whole is plagued by issues.

The cells can deliver 8.25a but don't expect good use out of them, they will suffer damage as I found out before I really understood cell specs. The 1c rating is usually the safe current draw for a low power cell, the C rating is 1x the minimum capacity stated, as you go up the scale 10a, 20a...

Change the chain wheel for a 42t or 44t. Use the link below to see how changing gearing might effect speed etc, etc. http://www.gear-calculator.com/

Also how to look a right plonk on an ebike with huge number plate and M/C helmet that's looks no different to another.

Shorting the probes should produce a 0 reading in any of the scales., a fet showing 0 will be shorted other wise none of my bikes would work and that is how my meter's read. Not all meters give a multi K reading some will just give a reading of 1 and if a short is indicated will read 0.

No need to drag the brake setting off just use PAS 1 or 2 level which will draw minimal current, speed wise you will be fine up to about 20mph. Yes more cells in parallel lessens the current draw from each individual cell in the parallel connection, 5 cells rather then 4 means each one is 20%...

Registering an S- pedelecs just isn't worth it, The process should be a simple one where their use should be permitted along with other bikes using same paths etc, as long as the 15.5mph pedelecs speed isn't abused and save the higher speed for roads. Wearing a motor cycle helmet is a joke as...

Does it have a display, if so does it turn on ? If not then no power if getting through from the battery via the controller, it could be a fuse. Are you able to get a voltage reading from the battery ?

Or ride normal pedelecs at 18 - 20mph no one will bother you.

A reading of 1 means all is well. It is possible you have over loaded the windings and caused damage or more likely you may have stripped partly the nylon planetary gears, opening the hub should tell.

Is the bike still at Halfrauds or did he take it home ? Some have had issues with torque sensor pick up as well.

This one has PAS and throttle, no light though. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32954217852.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.16952e0eKNsA1v