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Research/development is a continual process, the end user will always have to keep paying. Any of todays products are out dated before they hit the market, but for some as they are the latest spec they are a must have item.

If going to solder phase together make sure the motor works correctly first colour to colour. For the PAS Yellow instead of White (sig) , Black is Black(Gnd) & Brown is Red (5v).

A link to them please.

W011 is a speed sensor issue.

Your wife is rightly worried does/will the BMS accept the 10a charge ? Are you happy to forgo cell life cycle and have a short battery life ? There is a reason why most chargers are only 2 - 4a input. Most cell can take a 2.5a and some 4a each but you will sacrifice life cycle .

The Kepler installation bracket kit appears to be quite good, last time I Iooked at it well over a year ago it had a remote cable so you can detach it from the tyre at will as well as using within reason an small brushless RC motor. The VESC techy bit is the bit I can't get my head round...

Not many hubs used the dual reduction gears and the Aikema's of the modern ones and possibly some of the new Bafangs might use them. Whether or not they can be 3D printed or not I don't know as that tech isn't something I know about and whether or not they can be made strong enough.

The bent option I think just opens a few more options for mid drive, transferring some of the weight forward without affecting the lower gravity affect. chance of fitting the battery over the wheel if required or combine with touring bag/panniers for kit The new laid back seat position will...

Does the controller have learn wires ? If so the controller will search and optimise the best combination to sync the motor, you shouldn't need to do much more then to connect the learn wires together until the motor runs correctly, then switch off and then disconnect them. We did have one...

Ok , reset C2 back to 0. With sensored hubs there are 36 combos of phase/hall sequences you can use to determine correct motor sync , whether that is your issue I can't really say but it might be. Your have to play around with connecting disconnecting the phase and hall connections/wiring as...

In vid 3 under PAS it might be the phase out of sync. Try changing C2 setting from value 0 to 1 and try it only in PAS one level, if ii is still noisy try all of the other 6. If that fails reset It to 0 and then there are 36 wire permutation to try out to see if one or two permutation's work...

You might have to sign a disclaimer form cyclotricity to unleash the power ?

Unless you wish to blow the controller I would disconnect the throttle until PAS is sorted. Have you connected the hall wires in the white block exactly colour for colour ? Check the 9 pin motor connector is pushed together fully.

Good ol David.

All the time a crank motor looks like a brick bolted on they will be easy to spot as will the enlarged battery frame tube.

Really !!!

By looser gear you mean lower gear, rear larger sprocket /cog and or smaller front chain ring. A low gear allows you to spin faster /easier and yes you will get more torque then if you stay in a high gear. it doesn't necessarily mean more speed but is easier for the knee joints. Using a higher...

Change the front chain wheel for a larger toothed one.

If I was to go for a bent I think crank drive would be my choice.

P1 at 87 is probably ok, the hub looks just like any other hub whether Mxus, Bafang etc,etc. What is worrying is the wattage when the noise starts that indicates no power at that low level. For now disconnect the throttle and lets see if PAS can be got to work first. Under PAS use when turning...