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The fault may or may not be a hall sensor, by carrying out the test as vfr has mentioned you can then rule out some guess work.

Probab;y will boil down to the test ride one rear hub the other front hub. The Big Bear has immense power for a 250w motor albeit no different to a 350w one .

Check the switch wiring solder joints, may be a bad joint ?

Both will be still be serviceable and supported should any fault occur as David and Tony are regulars so spares won't be much of an issue.

XT60/90 aren't water proof. Solder direct heat shrink then cover with amalgamating tape. If you want a connector in case of motor removal later cut the bullets off and solder to the Anderson tails, connect them up and again use Amalgamating tape which you can easily cut off if need be later.

Like a lot of your posts Andy you randomly post anything.

Spending £169 still won't stop the idiot who does a smidsy as you are knocked off. I personally prefer my ears and a mirror to make my judgement, because at the end of the day if some twat is going to wipe you out it matters not what is fitted to the bike.

How's the brake discs going Andy do you still have them fitted the wrong way around ? I gloss over all of Andy's gifted electronics post's as all he does is surf U tube or the www. and then posts other's findings without actually doing any of the real leg work him self. Like the ebike tester...

I have used them with no problem in the past. It appears postage is quite dear when I look at the whole price, they never use to be. CS may be lacking should an issue arise so like many China seller you take your chance.

Show us a side on pic with the chain on the smallest rear sprocket/gear.

I'm happy with the KT for my use PAS3, 4 or 5, I very rarely use them. Tbh I have looked at the ES thread and it isn't my cup of tea to mess with. For the first 40 miles my average Wh usage was < 8.5wh per mile. Under 10wh per mile I feel I'm getting good exercise without busting a blood vessel.

If Woosh have none in stock then go the self build route and buy the components direct from China, If you want 250w rated/labelled motors then I have only seen some on Topbikekit (nearly all others from China are 350w, though you can get 250w on Ali Exp) also you can buy all the other stuff you...

My 36v AKM 128c is set up for 23a and is used at both 36v & 48v out on a ride. Down tube battery is 36v PF cells and utilises a on/off switch on the V+ line, the 48v PF celled 7p softcase is carried in top bag on the rear. Users wanting to over volt need to realise that they do so at there own...

There are so many controllers used by Oem bikes it isn't always possible to know the brand used, as VFR mentioned the KT LCD3 is quite distinguishable and is the best of the lot from the KT stable.

My Woosh Big Bear kit with Luishi controller had current control, though the current % is certainly higher then the KT ones. Tony at Woosh has said on here many times they programme the current % starting at 40% for PAS1. I can only assume Lishui's may have both options and might be down to how...

My Woosh Big Bear kit with Luishi controller had current control, though the current % is certainly higher then the KT ones. Tony at Woosh has said on here many times they programme the current % starting at 40% for PAS1. I can only assume Lishui's may have both options and might be down to how...

Over time all being equal the MJ's should be better but unless one see's about 700 complete cycles on both then he will never know.

Probably only if you go on a long ride and want to maximise range.

Cells in normal use have a usable normal voltage range of 3.2v - 4.2v as long as you stay within this range you should be fine. Manufacturers will also state a min voltage discharge of between 2.5v - 2.8v which is considered as deep discharge. Typically below 3.2v there is little point in...

Once fitted loosen off the calliper bolts a half turn or until the calliper is just loose, apply the brake to centralise/align the pads to the disc. Tighten calliper bolts and release the brake.