Search results

You did the right thing and asked because you didn't know or realise. Put a bit of black paint on the filed fork it won't be compromised. At least the Crossfire should be reliable now.

Via the drivers insurer.

You need to move the washer that is outboard ( behind axle nut) and place said washer inboard of the Anti rotation washer as I have inked below.

Beg pardon, I totally misread your post :rolleyes: . Yes working harder and using lower assist will use less battery capacity, ideal for longer rides.

Is the PAS wired up in the correct sequnce ?

Maybe there was more wind today, you rode faster, used more higher assistance today or had an extra slice of toast for breakfast and an extra sandwich at lunch time.

Also make sure the connectors are correct, some use the opposite F/M connectors to stop you buying elsewhere. LCD3 is the best of the large screen format, the newer LCD4 is space saving and compact.

All though all theoretical one would use a Bafang compatible display and rip out the Bosch battery BMS for a generic model.

No need to remove the green battery gauge, use the voltage reading along with the battery gauge to give you an idea of the gauges reading at 75%, 50% & 25%.

I know someone who was knocked of their S- pedelecs by a car, without no complaint the rider received about 1k compo from the insurers

The mid drive is maybe where someone like Bafang has slipped up on, they should have designed the motor housing so it can slide straight in to a Bosch frame.

For personnel preference no matter what bike except drops I would have to change the bars for sweeps.

Mudguards are indespensible for trail/track riders due to the the peasant's who don't clear up the dog poo so even 5 -10mm more clearance would be better.

Maybe more mudguard clearance for those that might use it on trials etc, where more muck will be acquired when wet. Other wise is pretty much similar to my town/commute 700c hack. Nice to see the bespoke one piece torque arm adapted to incorporate the guard stay bolt so much neater then the two...

The controllers are the Achilles heel on the kits followed by the nylon drive gears. Two were the ill fated GSM mid drive one failed at 250 miles and the other 70miles. One was the BBS01 two controller fails both about the 1600 mark just not reliable enough. The BBS one day I will dig out of...

I think pedelec power should be 350w as that is what most basic hub motors are rated at, though you can get 250w marked ones they will be inherently the same motor with a different sticker to keep different legislators happy. The likes of the mid drive producers is one fudge as know one really...

Get your self a rear hub bike for reliability and then any part of the electrical system can be replaced should any thing burn out for matter of ££'s usually. In 6 years I have replaced stuff to up grade on my hub bikes, had three mid drive kits and all have failed they just don't have the...

2ah cells at 80% will be **** poor, you will be lucky to get 1.3/1.4ah capacity out of them let alone use 1.8ah cells.

You probably have one of those horrible speed control kits which gives max current all the time. More magnets means quicker response time for the PAS to kick in.

Only certain city's will be trialling them so every where else they will be easily identified as illegal.