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I'm pretty sure that you can use any battery you want. Just replace the Freego battery and carrier with a standard downtube battery of your choice, then change the connector. You need to check what's in the connector to be absolutely sure. My guess is that it's a 4-pin one with the red and...

I'd make at least two 25 x 3 mm steel strips in the shape of a square "U" with internal size to fit the shape of the battery. Maybe bend the ends over at more than right-angles. Screw them to the bottle fixings with countersunk screws. That makes a channel to drop the battery into. If it were...

As far as I can see, there is no handshaking with that PCB. The connectors are not clear in your photo, but it looks like the two with double black wires are both sensors and the one with the green connector is for the battery charge level indicators. Are there any other connectors that are...

That doesn't make sense. you said the black cable was torn, then you said it was fine.

I used the PayPal dispute system to get the return address. The supplier offered me a partial refund, but I'm pretty sure the whole thing was a scam. Even with the partial refund, I was out of pocket because the watch they sent was completely useless I wanted a waterproof heart monitor watch. It...

I ordered a £40 smartwatch from China. They sent me a £5 one instead of the one I ordered, so I had to send it back. It cost £16.30 to return it, but when it got to DPD depot in Southampton, they refused it because it has a lithium battery in it. They want £15 to send it back to me.

http://www.flecc.co.uk/p/li_battery.html#bookmark9

That diagram is completely wrong. It shows Bat 10 connected to ground. Also, the markings B+ and B- are the wrong way round for how B1 to B10 are. I would say that what they've done wrong is mark the boxes Bat 1 to Bat 10 the wrong way round, especially because there are the optional empty pads...

Even the smallest generators will do it. The small ones are around 800W. These ones are very good - imported under a number of different brand names and colours, but otherwise identical. They're very quiet and light. In fact the quietest and lightest I've come across in that power range...

Be careful of those figures. You can do some simple sums. You need about 12kW to run a medium sized, medium streamlined motorbike at 70 mph, so a 20kWh battery will last for about 90 minutes, so around 110 miles as long as you don't have the wind against you.

We have the Zero S for about £10,000. The more expensive 14.4kWh version with the range extender battery can do well over 200 miles of city driving. It can also do nearly 100 mph. I think you can still get a £1500 cashback from the government to reduce the price a bit...

I always thought she was nuts.

Click the Youtube logo to see it on Youtube with comments underneath.

Look at the comments here. A quick read through doesn't show a single good one. Even the remainers are pleading for a no-deal Brexit now.

This one should sort you out: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Halfords-Black-Metal-Bike-Bell-Ring-Fits-Handlebars-up-to-22mm-Bicycle-Cycling/26019512807?iid=192833980885&chn=ps

Keep your motor and upgrade the battery and controller to 48V. That'll give you 30% more power, torque and speed.

The system draws about 4W when the display is on. If the display comes on by itself, it's faulty or the switch is faulty. Also have a look at any connections and check that the cable isn't damaged. Water in the display will cause that fault. Did you ride it in the rain on your last ride?

Massive crank-drive motor compared with tiny hub-motor might have something to do with it.

That's right, if you get 42v on the charger and 41.5v on the battery, your meter is probably accurate. If you get 41.5v on both, either your charger is set low or your meter is reading low, but you won't know which.

Before adjusting anything, you need to check their accuracy. Don't forget that some BMSs drain down the cells to 4.15. Did you check the voltage coming out of your charger?