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The power comes from the controller, not the motor, so it's the different controller that makes the other one feel nippier.

I've lifted many electric bikes up stairs and I can tell you that the walk assist is not going to be any help. You'll find that the only sensible way to get that bike up stairs is to lift it clear of the steps, and it's a very heavy bike compared with most.

Please let us know how you get on with them. I must admit that I like the concept.

You can't use the LCD to switch the lights because your controller doesn’t have that function. The only thing you can do is cut open the LCD cable to find the 36v wire, then use that to power 36v lights via a switch, but it's not really worth the effort. If you want to run 36v lights, it would...

That cable has a 9 pin connector. Kt controller has 8 pins!

It's not possible without literally hacking the wiring.

Your bottom braket might have come loose. Grab the left side pedal arm and see if there is any freeplay when you push and pull it in its axial direction. Grab both pedals and push and pull them to see if tnere is any rock in the BB. That should also show whether you have a loose pedal arm.

Only use a KT LCD with a KT controller.

Its a geared direct drive motor, i.e. the motor is engaged at all times, like when your Bafang clutch sticks on.

Is your belt properly aligned? When you're freewheeling, then pedal, the motor re-engages with a bit of a clunk because of the big difference in speed between the motor and the spinning wheel. The clutch engages instantly so the motor gets sort of knocked from whatever speed it's at to wheel...

I would have thought that a rear cassette motor would be ideal. They're very reliable and easy to fix if anything does go wrong. Front motors work, but are noiser than rear ones and they make the bike's handling worse, so only fit one if there's no alternative. The mk1 BBS01/02 motors weren't...

If the display goes off, 9 times out of 10 it's a battery connection issue or other problem with the battery.

A few years ago, I converted a shopper bike with 20" wheels. I was out testing it with my riding pal going up a very long steep hill, when I passed a struggling roadie. I said, "good afternoon" as I passed, and I got a very friendly reply from him. A few seconds later, my pal passed him on his...

Most geared hub-motors have nylon-based gears. I'm not sure whether the Panasonic's gears are plastic or metal, but judging by the noise, I'd say plastic. Plastic gears don't need lubrication. That leaves the bearings. A Bafang hub-motor is expected to last 30,000 miles, but inconsistent...

The controller is inside the motor hub. To access it, you have to take the wheel out and temove all the spokes because the motor splits down the middle, then you canseparate the two halves with a puller. Its a bespoke controller that I've never seen as a spare part, so unless you're good at...

You have to be careful with some of the cheap kits, especially the ones with an LED type control panel or no control panel at all. Those ones often have no power regulation. Not all kits are born equal and it's worth paying a bit more to get a smoother quieter motor and decent power regulation...

Subway is a very easy bike to convert. Many have been done before along with other Carrera bikes that share the same frame. Just about all options are open. If I were doing it, I'd be looking at the Yosepower rear cassette motor kit, but there are many similar kits that you could choose. For a...

You only need a magnet that can provide enough magnetic field when it goes past the sensor, considering the strength of the magnet and how close it is to the sensor. If it's lacking in either of those parameters,you can make it stronger and closer by adding neodymium disc magnets like these...

Hub motors can go for huge mileages as long as you don't let water in or damage the cable.

Can you explain why you want to fit a front motor and what bike you want to install it in?