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We need more stories like this, where bikes are rescued from near death. To complete the story, what was the final total cost?

Hub motors do indeed gain something from gears because the rider can still pedal at full power in a low gear to help the motor climb a steep hill. The problem with the Gtech is that as the bike slows down to climb a steep hill, the gearing is too high for the rider to give it any useful...

I'm glad your happy with it. I did say that it suits some people. It doesn't suit me. I found the bike components to be a bit cheap and nasty, and there was something weird about the steering geometry. I'm a regular cyclist, and I have been for many years. I'm about 90kg. I found it a little...

No difference at all.

Watch those videos, then tell me whether you think you've been eating the wrong type of mushrooms!

PAS = pedal assist sensor. All black wires are common ground. Any red wire on the throttle, PAS or motor connectors is 5v.

Any bike shop should be able to do it. Take the wheel off after removing the screw on the torque arm clamp Remove the cover Clean thoroughly Reassemble. Turn the adjuster/s until the band is just touching, then back off a touch. Adjust the cable .

Most mid drives don't have accessible controllers.

Best for what? Hanging on your wall as a trellis for climbing plants? Boat anchor? What I can say that they're good at is marketing. You see the same bikes in every magazine, newspaper and online review sites where it's (lets say) professionals reviewing them. I guess whoever wrote that review...

Let me translate all those manuals for you. When P3=1, you have current control, where each level on the LCD is a different current (current = power) and there is no limit on the speed on any level. The throttle works proportionally as a speed controller. When P3=0 you have speed control...

The motor might have 200W stamped on it, but it's exactly the same as any 250W one. Bikes like that can be transformed into really nice bikes by upgrading the battery and controller. If that's a plastic case, you'd have to get it re-celled if you want it in the same place, otherwise there's...

It's impossible to judge because we have no idea what preceded that event. He wouldn't have done it for nothing. Maybe the other guy kicked him off first or had mugged someone of their phone. Maybe the guy that knocked off the other guy was a secret undercover agent, and if you think I'm joking...

You could have tried it and seen whether it solved your problem in less time than what it took to write that, then you'd only have to write "thanks".

P3=1

Guys like that are dangerous. He's got a thin aluminium rack between his frame and axle on a full suspension bike, and he has four SLAs sitting on it. As soon as his axle starts going up and down, it'll shake the rack to pieces and his batteries are going to get spewed all over the road. I was...

If the charger light goes red, it's charging. If it doesn’t, it isn't.

It sounds like you have your controller set to speed control rather than power control. The throttle is a speed controller and so is the PAS if you have it set to speed control, so whichever is the higher wins and takes control. You have to set P3 to1

The big resistor does get hot in some controllers, but it can also be an indication that there's a problem on the 5V rail. You need to check the voltage between the red and black wires on the PAS, throttle or motor hall contectors. If you have the sealed connectors, open the controller and probe...

If they're anything other than 0V, they'll charge.. It takes 5 hours with a 2A charger, so it'll take 40 hours with your one, but it only goes half-way to 3.6V, so 20 hours.

To mount the throttle on because you have no room on your bars. This is the nearest pic I can find. You can also fit one to these tubular type bar ends, which you can get from Ebay https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bar_ends.JPG