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Blue is normally cruise, but I remember some where the blue loop had a different function, though I can't remember what. It might well have been speed limit. Even if it is the cruise control, it should be disconnected.

What sounds like a motor problem is 9 out of 10 times an electrical problem. Put the motor back in the wheel and turn it by hand. You should feel it whirring a bit when you turn it backwards with some slight resistance and maybe a bit of notchiness if you turn it very slowly. In the other...

There's a Bosch battery tester that dealers can buy that gives out nice print outs too, and it's not very expensive. When the shop did the test, did they give you a copy of the print out? When they said everything was OK, did the print out show that? If you have the print out, can you show it...

Have a look how the two prongs on the battery carrier engage with the slots in the battery when you slide the battery in. It could be that the plastic part that holds the two prongs is broken, in which case you can glue it back together with epoxy. Secondly, it could be that the carrier is...

Different LCDs use different data protocols and different controllers have different programming, so the LCD needs to be matched to the controller. It's always best to buy them as a matched pair if you want certainty about the functions.

Your motor cannot put any significant charge back into the battery. What you see is sagging battery voltage when you use the motor. The voltage drops in proportion to the amount of current you take from it so you see it going down when you use power and it goes back up when you freewheel down a...

Be careful about judging the wear on a cassette. The teeth on a decent cassette are not all the same. They have a pattern of different shapes to aid shifting. Some of the teeth are in the shape of a shark's tooth when it's new and some of the teeth have elongated curves between the teeth. Both...

It's very simple. The motor will run at 3/4 of the mximum speed it did at 48v. The amount of power depends on the maximum current allowed by the controller, which is written on the label. The amps at 36v have 3/4 of the power than they did at 48v, so a 36v 20A controller gives 3/4 of the torque...

You might get some life out of it if you charge the two low cells to around 4.1v the same as the others. Also, the last one needs charging. Use a 1S lipo charger. This one will do it, though a bit slow. If you pull the pins out of the connector, you can plug them straight in. You must put them...

It's like they designed it for conversion. You need a cassette rear motor kit, not a freewheel one if you don't want to mess about getting your gears to work.

Cut the connectors off and join the wires, then you can use whatever throttle you want. All throttles work the same with three wires.

There is nothing wrong with your controller. It's electronic so it can't change any of its settings without someone opening it up, unsoldering components and soldering in new ones. Your lead batteries are simply past their sell by date, which is the almost certainty that anyone will find when...

Are you sure? I repaired a 1000w Cyclotricity Stealth recently and I'm pretty sure it was a 9-pin connector, though I don’t think it was the version with the 250w setting.

OP's bike dates back to around 2011, when pouch cells were the norm. The bike uses TransX electrics, which probably means CANbus communication. I can remember Bruce telling us about it, but I'm not sure what exactly was involved because he also mentioned other things, like phone connectivity...

On your LCD, that's the P5 setting, which is the length of time that the CPU averages the battery voltage before sending it to the display.

The battery symbol on the LCD that shows how full the battery is.

Most LCDs have 5 wires. Red is from the battery and it powers the LCD. Blue is joined to the red when you switch on the LCD. It becomes the battery supply voltage back to the controller to power it. It's the LCD that powers the controller, not the controller that powers the LCD. Black is ground...

The battery symbol shows full, so there might be another reason for the fault. If you can find the connector for the LCD, try unplugging it and leaving it overnight, then reconnect and try it again.

You only get level one on the pedal assist, which is less than 250W, but I'm not sure what you'll get on the throttle. Normally, you'd get full power, but the Cyclotricity one might default to 250W mode on the throttle

Join the red to blue and the yellow to green. Be very careful not to let the red or blue touch anything else even with the battery disconnected. You can buy a replacement LCD from Ebay...