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Definitely NO.

Yes show us pics.

Yes use ebikebatteries.co.uk the official battery page for BGA. Jimmy will recell your old case with better new cells and arrange the courier both ways.

C1 is the only one that may be wrong, if you are using the KTV12 pas as in #13 then C1 05, 06 or 07 might be better. Did all three halls switch 0v - 5v in testing ? The fact the 03 occurs when you use the throttle might indicate conflict some where in the controller, it is possible that the...

A 15a KT controller kit will be the obvious choice but I think you still need to confirm if the battery is any good, the small battery meter that gave 100% all the time is not correct. In the settings you have to configure it for the voltage in use other wise they don't give a true pic of what...

It looks pretty simple to me and all are making meal out of mountain, he has used self tapping screws or or tapped a M4/M5 thread in the centre of the chain ring bolts and used CS machine screws. Most have a blank hole already through them as can be seen with the other four in the pic.

You can't rely on the battery indicator, you need to physically use a voltage meter to 100% confirm that the battery output pins are registering voltage (41.5 - 42v). If a meter tells you something different then there is a problem, once we know the actual voltage reading we can then rule out...

Your voltage and resistance tests are fine, nothing wrong electrically. The P2 setting can be found after you have entered in to the basic settings. once you have gone to the last setting, simultaneously hold the up/down buttons again to enter the P settings. P2 is the parameter for the wheel...

All cells will sag, some more then others. Sony/Murata are rated as a very good cell and will suffer about half the sag. The more cells in P then less sag but that means more weight and expense.

Murata produced the cells for Sony hence the dual name, there was a licence agreement allowing Murata to do so. A few years ago Murata actually bought the Sony battery business lock stock and barrel.

You need to charge off bike.

The battery to controller wiring if short will pose little issue. The sag of 3v on throttle sounds typical for a 4 or 5 P battery, it is when as you mentioned battery is at 37v that cut out occurs. LVC will come in to play for sure on full throttle or PAS 4 or 5, it is prudent at this stage to...

Welcome and post away , this is generally a good helpful place.

On especially if it is a BMS switch.

The obvious is to check the voltage output of both batteries and tell us the reading. Also check all wire connectors, pull them apart and carefully reconnect them esp the one from the motor wheel to controller. Does the lcd bar display work/switch on ?

The controller 14awg can handle 32a continuous so plenty for the 22a rating. The battery 16awg is again suitable to handle the current it can supply which is approx. 22a continuous, I doubt the battery is rated for mor ethen 15 -20a discharge. All AWG for short bursts can handle about double...

30 - 31v but most BMS will cut 32 - 33v.

Ideally with the 9 fet controller good 10a cells are needed and the more in P the bettery. If thinking of a new battery build DIY consider going down the 21700 route you could use Sam 40T or if 18650 my current pref would be LG29 or MJ1.

Irrelevant of the hub used I have used a 25a KT 9 fet with both the Yose (Bafang hub) and an AKM128 both at 36 & 38v with no issues with Panny cells. The 6 fet KT in the main I stopped using as they got very hot (too hot to handle) esp using max amps and climbing steep ascents for some distance...

My inPut is the 14.5 battery is at fault and knackered or at least a Parallel cell group is very tired or has failed cells. The fact that it is down to 41.2v is an indication that it is loosing capacity and cells have high IR, voltage collapse is a sign of IR which means they also can't deliver...