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Smaller single cell use makes it more viable to use in multiple items/enclosures. radio's, torch's and fans etc etc. They can fit in to any designed small space so the market is huge. You only have to look as SLA batteries to see the issue. A single smaller cell is less dangerous then a massive...

It looks like a possible rebrand occurring of it's kit from the main company name. A bit like Bafang who use the 8Fun branding.

Looks ok to me and actually looks better then the Yose yellow/green.

May be it's a christamas edition kit, any how don't worry as the lcd and controller are Kuenteng . Any branding is really immaterial.

The same hub 201rpm in a larger wheel has a greater rotation speed so can obtain more speed. In a 26 wheel approx. 1mph = 12.9 rpm. 700c/28" wheel approx. 1mph = 12.2rpm.

Might need greasing ?

201 rpm is the copper winding speed so in 20" wheel it equates to approx. 12mph, the lower the winding speed the more efficient the hub is at climbing. A 250 rpm hub would be about 15mph. A 328rpm as VFR says is about 19 mph, Though these aren't hill climbing speeds but flat terrain obtainable...

If about 12mph is good for the user then the AKM100 is available in 201rpm. With rim. http://www.topbikekit.com/akm100h-36v350w-ebike-front-driving-hub-motor-36holes-with-2026inch700cc-wheel-rim-p-876.html With out...

Throttle will use full power all the time, the light bar dipping is battery (voltage ) sag. Sag is noticeable when a heavy load is asked of the battery, when that load is eased the voltage sag rebounds a little. Sag is a normal noticeable feature of ebikes with a light bar or voltage readout...

If it was my battery and carried no warranty from the seller, I would try a manual cell group charge to see if the cells would hold a charge. In this case it sounds like Eddy may have some redress with the vendor first, so I believe he should go down that route first with them first before...

36v 15ah I would expect 40+ miles if it is not used in high power mode all the time. With batteries/charging you can never assume, the only way of knowing something for sure is by using a multimeter.

Hub motors very rarely go wrong and can be self repaired, there isn't much to go wrong unless fitted in the drop outs incorrectly.

Use a good rear hub kit for towing a trailer. Bafang CST isn't cheap but a AKM128c is not overly expensive or the Bafang G310. Which trailer depends on the weight and bulkyness of items towed. I use a Carry freedom for my bulky/heavy carries as it has an excellent stable base.

Something else to go wrong !!!!

The green light doesn't necessarily mean a battery is fully charged, it an indication that one or more cell groups has reached 4.2v. Only a proper voltage reading can confirm the voltage. With a BMS fitted part charging or short charging creates more issues then it solves unless it is a smart...

Now you know, next time or another hub will be easy to remedy.

I just chuck em in saline and then bin them when reading 0v for the dustmen.

B11 parallel group is toast at 0.5v is fit for the tip or recycling, it is not safe to try and recover it and will always be a weak link. Your battery based on the first cell count of 3.81v should be near 50v if it was good. Vendors advice is bo**ocks, I doubt they will have clue or even know...

Robgul has posted here before and is a frequent poster on Cycle UK forum, he rides a gain and is a bike shop owner so might be able to help.

No, that's why I can't be bothered to play ball. Cutting and pasting all the time it's like plagiarism.