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If the controller has the separate 6 block hall connector and you have multi meter you can check if the motor halls are damaged without opening the hub, all it takes is 10 - 15mins of your time, the use of a multi meter and maybe a second pair of hands to slowly turn the wheel.

I call it despicable as the buyer will never receive the goods, a shameful way to carry on and no doubt in any future re-incarnation's the forum will highlight any short comings.

On my commute/town bike I have fitted 36v lights front and rear fortunately my KT controller has light output so wiring up is simpler. Even without light output you can splice in to the feed wires between battery and controller and fit an line fuse if required. This lamp has it own switch on...

I replaced the Watt meter with ext shunt as I simply couldn't get it to work (likely me not installing it correctly) but no matter what I tried zilch, nothing, zero in any info read out. So I now have a nice smaller watt/ammeter installed in a small project box on the head set, current...

Well worth considering a Silverfish lithium celled battery, they will come with a new fitting docking kit and a charger, the advantage over SLA is they will give better range and usable power. Plenty on ebay to choose from as well for about 10ah to 15ah. Just check the measurements to make sure...

Most bikes with a std 9mm drop out can be converted to a hub gear bike, chain tension can be taken up with a Nexus/Alfine tensioner. I did this to my mtb.

The spark is because the Capacitor/capacitors are drained, plug in with battery off then switch on to for charging.

I would suspect cross polarity may be the issue, double & triple check this.

I expect there are but also many disappointed especially some of the posters on here previously, one poster has had 3 motors not a great advertisement for low mileage.

If you are getting 70% capacity use then no reason to worry about DOD, just charge it up fully a few hours before you need it again. Just don't leave it at 100% for any length of time not in hours but days and weeks on end.

Highest quality German engineering there will be few cringing at those words especially when Impulse drive is concerned.

Interesting my math says you are utilising 12s David given that 12 x 3.6 is 43.2v nominal and balance/top charge is 4.16v per cell group.

The motor is Bafang so it they who have chosen to diversify with TS option to compete with the other mid drive competition, they already cover the cadence drives with the BBS range.

The controller will either be incorporated in the battery or in the down tube I suspect, follow the hub motor cable and it will feed in to it.

Nothing wrong with the TBK site and dealing with them they appear to be very good, recently a member had an issue with his AKM128c hub and TBK got him spares for it which no one else offers.

GLS are usually quite good, I select the GLS option when using Nkon and arrives in 4 days.

Not only scooters Eddie , how about an articulated e-skateboard towing a trailer complete with canoe.

Ebikebatteries.co.uk in N.London, Jimmy is the man. For a descreet lcd then a kt lcd4 is probably the answer, go to topbikekit for many options to choose from.

If you want an lcd a little less obvious check out the super neat new LCD4 a very neat mini display and the speil say's it has user parameter settings as well. Topbikekit is the go for place now for all KT stuff and hubs from China.

Probably if you are an electronics micro surgeon and know what components to replace, though likely more then one or two components might be damaged.