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If lcd doesn't switch in then power isn't getting thru from the battery, as K has said above the battery voltage needs checking as does the battery fuse. A blown fuse will prevent the lcd switching on.

Yes that is an option, cut the old tube to remove.

Carrying a Gaadi tube as a spare is only of use if you use one in the tyre as well.

I'm not even going to bother....

Either fit Marathons or fit a Gaadi tube so that you can replace (with another Gaadi) or repair the tube without removing the wheel.

No one knows what speed he was going at, all that was said by the legal's was he exceeded the speed limit. Could be the posted limit was 20mph.

AK is short for forum user 'Anotherkiwi' who lives in France. KT is for ' Kuenteng 'electronics ' who make controllers/kits, one of the most widely source able bits of kit on the market. They are very good and make controllers in varying sizes with various functions, can be bought with older...

Oxygen ia another of the few sellers on the forum who get very god feed back due to their CS and attention to detail. Choosing local is a no brainer when within range of one of the good guys.

AK's KT seems to work well with 12s.

Yep, used Onature on Aliexp have used them before. I got the 100 lux ones. I received mine in 6 days which is excellent for sellers on there.

Got to admit I have Sram twists on the Swizzbee 3 x 9 and actually like the operation of them, brakes are both hydraulic no issues with these. If you have Sram gears you need 1: 1 twist shifters, if you have Shimano gears then make sure you buy Sram 2:1 twist shifters.

The blue wires might be for speed restriction join them back together and test, if they are likely they were cut due to stability at speed/cornering. The controller looks to be very basic and single speed only as no display control or 3 spd switch can be seen, lcd (5 wires) or led (4 wires)...

You need a multi meter to check the battery voltage and to check the chargers output voltage, battery should be about 41.5v - 42v and the charger needs to be 42v. 36v is nominal for lithium ion (cylindrical cells), 37v is nominal for Lithium polymer (pouch cells). For charger very carefully...

Yes, without looking well dodgy 20ah with only 4 cells 18650 in parallel. Panny's very good GA cell is only 3400mah they don't make a 5000mah cell, no one makes a 5000mah 18650.

In battery terms 11s is a non starter if you want to use a bms, 12s makes sense both bms and chargers for 43.2v nom are available.

Difference in levers is in the price and styling of the ranges, the cheaper m315 levers feel and look flimsy in their design compared to the others in that range. M525 give them a miss they aren't in my view as good as the m395/445/6 levers.

My one arrived over a week ago (100 lux) and got round to fitting/wring it yesterday, tonight cycled around to Lidl and they are super bright (and that is on night lit town roads), can imagine on totally unlit roads they will light up the dark light something from Close Encounters. Nicely...

Link to guide for simple hall sensor testing. https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf

The MH1 is a very good cell and LG in the most are highly rated, I think in the last few years there was only one cell that was a bit of a dog and that was the MG1 which is no longer I believe. The new Mxx series are also meant to be very good as well as is the very well regarded MJ1.

Shimano m315 to m525 use the same generic twin pot calliper the only difference other wise are brake levers.