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No not been at least a year on the forum now, though his identical twin does post a lot now;).

Read these simple to follow guides for testing,etc. https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/BlownMosfets.pdf https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HubMotorHallSensorReplacement.pdf

It is cheaper to get battery cases recelled (approx. 40%) and use the existing BMS then buying a new battery altogether, Jimmy for instance at ebikebatteries.co .is kept busy using this route.

His battery postings are worse then this and as always I ignore his advice and in the main most of his posts as I suspect do a few others. His views mainly go against the grain of most practices used/expressed and his theories/explanations seem to to written in gobbledygook.

Doub;e/triple check the wire sequence is correct, tell us the sensor wire colours.

If the pas works pedalling backwards you have to flip the magnet face over or remove each magnet and rotate the magnet so the correct pole is facing the sensor. Another option is to turn the sensor so the wire is at 180 degrees, this changes the sensor direction. Other wise transfer it as it is...

The hub motors using a 8/9 pin Julet connector are wired as a standard item so many hub motors will be usable.

The bike is not fit for purpose and the fault isn't a motor fault. The cutting out is either a battery/BMS issue or a wire/ contact issue. Just tell them enough is enough and you want a refund as the bike is dangerous esp if it cuts out whilst negotiating a busy junction. If they dither or...

A new chain isn't needed to test back pedal simply remove from the front sprocket/chain ring to see if crank backs pedals. I've never had or looked at one of these drives but assume somewhere inside there is a pawl system in action and a pawl is stuck causing the back pedal issue ?

Is it wired up correctly and not shorting.

If the bike has PAS does that work ok ?

When some someone is bewilder by choice or has no idea which way to turn, then the best is a recommend and above all you want/need quality CS from experts who design/spec their own brand of bikes. In the case of Wisper and Woosh they aren't selling multiple brands but one brand with multiple...

For Woosh give them a call to discuss which bike to buy, they will sell you the bike that they think is most suitable for your requirements/needs. So let them know your height/weight, terrain you cover and bike style you are looking for. For Wisper speak to David Miall and see if a dealer is...

2mm is nothing and the frame will easily spread for that.

You are hitting the max speed assist so after that what you conceive as drag is simply the dead weight of the motor you are trying to rotate faster with only leg power, not forgetting it is usually 3kg - 4.4kg of mass centred in the middle of the wheel a lot harder then if the mass was evenly...

Is the pcb an internal Nimh charging board ?

You will have to ask the China Manufacturers that but likely answer is the type bicycle standard bar end is now commonly 22mm whether mtb,hybrid or step thru and many twist throttles or half throttles are like wise so thumb type throttles follow the same pattern. The 30mm of drop bars/tourers...

The issue with short charging is you run the chance of unbalancing the battery as you will only be able to charge to 3.9v per cell to get 54.6v, then you create other issues to overcome. 52v nominal = 58.8 v fully charged. 48v nominal = 54.6 fully charged so as long as you are at or below...

They will all work so pick the one you like the best, if you are able to test ride even better. Other wise all I can say is the two W's will give you top CS.

The racks sit low so CofG is low, tried and tested by tourers world wide, designed for the exact reason you need them for and a damn site better and safer then dangling bags from the bars.