Search results

9 fet Sinewave, the controller has the standard 6 wire J7061 hall connector.

The 170mm F/B one will be the kiddie to use, your rear stays if ali will spread the extra 10mm needed. Either use a small jack between the stays and carefully spread them or do it D8veh/Vfr style and use 4 x 2 and wedges to spread them, ali may spring back a little so you may have to spread them...

Speedbox or any other type of dongle aren't for hub drive use, they are for OEM mid motor drives . Hub drive restriction is down to LCD settings or if not adjustable is down to set controller software.

Your volt controller should have a label with info on it. Most controllers will be at least 12a max rating and this can vary right up to 20a for 250w systems. Where do you get 20a from ? There Q& A on the site still say's 3.5a. To handle 20a then they will have to use all copper contacts and...

The 6 fet ones can get very hot (to hot to handle at times) and need to be in free air for cooling, if they are in a bag of any kind then there is no air circulation The ali case acts as a heat sink for the mosfets, a combo of slow speed and high power esp on hills causes the mosfets heat to...

e bike throttles are for 22mm handle bar ends. The dual hall V12L PAS sensor is foe sqaure taper bottom brackets, if yours is Sq taper then you need about 8mm clearance. if not enough clearance then you need to get anew bottom bracket with a longer axle.

Cells groups in series will carry the same current from the first cell group to the last. The 25R will indeed have a current rating of 80a & the 30Q 60a, but you won't want to try and put that through a Vruzend kit a sthe ends caps can't handle much more then 3.5 - 4a. Current will be wasted...

Usually when I test, I get a static 9.9 - 10 ohms for the Gnd to phase, though 19.8k seems quite high though they are all the same. The V+ to phase again appear good all being the same. What I don't know is when a mosfet gets warm/hot is how much the heat damages them and if it affects their...

What/which controller did you settle on ?

If it has a fuse which it should have then it will be inside, you may have to contact the seller first or you could undo the two screws at the discharge end and carefully take the plastic end off and have a look. A fuse should be fitted the V+ line on the discharge line.

You may have to be patient with getting good brake bite & lever travel/feel so it may take several attempts of adjustment to get it working quite well. Not forgetting that generally the front brake usually does about 70% of the braking, the rear should work well with out it locking up completely.

The battery is reading 0v output may have a blown fuse, depending on the battery it will have an external rubber seal that hides the pull out fuse or it will be an internal one which means opening the battery to check it. Battery pic or link ?

The spring generally shouldn't be under so much tension/compression as in you pic above. Use a combination of winding out the adjuster screw and the brake lever adjustment to arrive at a point where the brake works well. I would start by undoing the cable clamp bolt , wind the rear adjustment...

48v more torque and range for a like for like Ah/Wh battery up to 33%.

Trying to cypher you post isn't easy, all it tells us is the bikes electric system isn't working for one reason or another. The bike uses a TS sensor system so the issue may likely be there with in the TS Bottom bracket/sensor, if they go wrong then replacement unit is needed and a dealer is...

Tbh looking at the state of the few inchs of cable we can see I would change the outer and inner completely and start a fresh. As been mentioned the rear securing nut for the cable clamp is missing until that is replaced the brake will never work, the item WavyDavy has mentioned as a T/A isn't...

My cheap bike a Norco Indie was < £400 7 years ago an ex display bike , over the last 7 years I have modded it a bit and it has seen various kits on it. Currently still my daily commute/errand bike that is used all year round in all weather. So price isn't a down side, if you maintain it. The...

All you can do is compare it to a SS41 and buy them as a replacement if it looks the same.

You can carry out checks to see if the controller Mosfets have an issue, the controller gets hot due to faulty Mosfets . Faulty Mosfets cause lack of or no power. Remove the battery to test the controller Mosfets resistance. Set your meter to 200 ohms and probe between Black/Gnd and each of...

Sram gave up with all hubs a couple of years ago and no longer support any of them. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/364274/Sram-Sram-Sparc-16v.html Holland bike shop have some spares for Sram, other wise you just have to search or try ebay.