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Two options. 1. https://www.ebiketuning.com/shop/bafang/speedbox-for-bafang.html 2. Reconfigure using the free BBS01,02,BBSHD download software and buy a programming cable to make changes via your computer.

Yep standard li - po pack slid in, under the blue heat shrink will be 10 pouch cells laid to face to face, BMS likley on the other end as don't see it or the thin sense wires. Does the other end come off ?

They had to be pushed in to be fitted so should come out, what ever if li - po swell then they will tight in the space. Thye will have a BMS attached any wiring should have enough to be able to with draw the pack. Show some pics.

Should have said a complete wheel re-build or complete rim re-lace both with all new spokes so they are consistent from the same batch/supplier.

If nine have gone then you are in complete rim rebuild territory in my view.

It won't work ,battery charger doesn't supply the watts/demand required. Undo you battery end and slide out the li -po pack, via the multi connector test each f the 10 pouch voltages. Any that are < 3.3v then you will have found your problem.

The drop in bars/battery level is known as voltage sag when demand/current is asked typical of most batteries, once demand/current is reduced they rebound to a stable higher voltage until next time.

Bosch warranty is a rolling 2 year one if it is triggered before each anniversary.

I would go with locality for ease of service/buying but that said Woosh are good as supplying parts if needed quickly.

You will need to buy a few spokes so remove a good spoke and measure it properly for correct length, take one from each side as they may differ by a few mm. Measure spoke thickness/diameter 12g = 2.6mm, 13g = 2.3mm & 14g = 2mm. Sapim strong is a good spoke generally 14g/2mm diameter but is...

Woosh, Wisper, Kudos, Oxygen & Volt are the top forum recommends for hub bikes.

Forget a torque sensor/multiplier then as they require you to put in effort to get the best out of them. A cadence sensor means you can pedal as little or as hard as you like.

Building your own is more expensive as you need to factor in the the spot welder, BMS, cells, wire, nickel, insulators and Kapton tape. If it is to satisfy your curiosity then and money isn't really an issue then self build gives more insight in how they are constructed, wired up. Two...

My battery was part of the now defunct Oxydrive kit, though the bullet proof Bafang CST is still in use and has 6,5k miles on it now. The Samsung 13ah battery used 2600mah 26F cells 5.2a CDR , mileage was about 3k in that time span though I ride long so battery was always down to lvc to eke out...

Last pic, you have what is known as a Torque arm in your hand.

Holy shemozzle, that's what is called a thread resurrection, and to another happy 8 years of usage.

Get the battery re-celled with nice ones from Jimmy at ebikebatteries .co.uk, he will oraganise the pick and re-delivery , all for a very reasoanable figure which you will likely be pleased with.

Controller programming differs from make to make. If your PAS didn't work you can try flipping the disc as some are directional, this is evident sometimes when PAS work when cranking backwards.

Not quite. 2600mah is the cell capacity rating and not the current discharge rating (CDR), the CDR is approx. 5a continuous. 10.4ah battery is likely to have only 40 cells, so 4 in parallel to give (10.4ah) & then 10 groups/strings of 4 connected in series to give 10s /36v. The important bit...

Controller and LCD need to be compatible, by this meaning they have to hand shake/communicate to each other. Programming /protocols are different from each company so mixing and matching means they might work but you don't get all the info displayed on the lcd. I am guessing that your 10.4 ah...