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The big Bear is an easy peasy effortless ride you won't have to do much at all, as the powerful motor will haul you a long with ease. It is a lazy bike to ride, It will eat hills especially in PAS 5. The handling/ride from the high torque front drive hub can be/feel a bit strange compared to...

All I have done is kept all wiring tidy inside 6mm spiral wrap.

Big Bear has a more powerful BPM hub though is front wheel drive, not a bike for working out on but more of a go with what the ride gives. It is an ideal bike for the heavier rider though the ride experience isn't as good as a rear hub.

You can only do this for hub motors or the GSM without controller from Woosh. All other 36v BBS type motor will blow the internal controller. You need 36v hub, 48v rated or dual voltage controller max 25a but typically 17 or 20a. LCD matched to controller and PAS. If using a throttle then a...

I had a recent similar problem of intermittent stall power delivery to my 8fun CST and eventually traced it to the phase bullet connectors, pulled them a part tighten the female with pliers a little reconnected and all was well again. Later I cut them off and rewired/soldered with an MT60 now...

Unless you have a bad phase connection in the motor then the noise is often from the controller, said noise resonates and appears to be the motor but in fact isn't. Set P1 to 86. Confirm the magnet poles /sensor being used. Which battery does it occur with and controller amps. List all your C...

Knowledge reading via the internet on the subject can't be dismissed, this helps to bare fruit when you transfer that knowhow learnt in to real world practice on a battery in need of attention.

Depending on the new BMS specs the max charge voltage may be 4.25v before the bleed discharge rectifies this, as you have 2 or 3 high cell groups thye likely went above 4.2v then later on bled back below 4.2v to give the reading you saw. As said in other posts you will painstakingly have to...

The nickel which vfr has linked to although uses the word plate in the title doesn't mean it is plated nickel. China uses some strange descriptions and plate just refers to a flat thin strip. Further down the page it does give purity as 9.96%. I buy my pure nickel off Ann/Ann Battery on Aliexp...

Before anyone starts thinking about bms wire connections and think swapping one out is simple, it is best to sit down and understand how volts flow through a battery pack and how they are inter connected to follow the flow path as it passes through the pack from one end to the other. Starting...

Fuse not required if using the light/switch input.

Soldering copper is like trying to weld copper to cells, it requires a lot of instant heat as conductivity of copper absorbs heat better. That is why pure nickel is still favourite amongst hobby builders and professional builders. Unless you have a state of the art machine 0.1mm copper is about...

I live close to Gatwick and there is no one that familiar at all that I know of , the nearest best specialist is Darren @Brighton ebikes. BBS conversion to all types of bikes inc bents etc are his bread and butter, he knows them inside out.

With bms I always confirm which is B0 or B- before even considering soldering them on, always leave the main jst sense connector dis-connected, If you have a Black wire and all other Red then the Black is B0. Once I have soldered all wires I then double check the connector voltage of each pin...

0.6v is far out for the bms to balance, you need to partial discharge the high cells. Either directly or indirectly via the bms wire connector you need to attach a 12v lamp or two to discharge the cells down to about 3.8v, monitoring the voltage. Then reconnect and try a charge it may not...

Front light with integrated horn, horn is type found on electric pallet truck. Light is bright enough for commute/town riding...

With the Big Bear kit I use a pair of Banggood 6-80v lights and simply paralleled them & connected to the main power wires from /to the controller with a switch and fuse on v+ side of the lights. With the KT controller I use a KT combi horn/light simply wired them direct to the light output...

Any direct prolonged heat on the neg end of the can is potentially heat damaging, avoiding the very centre of the can is important. Contact for soldering needs to be very short 1 sec or less.

5mm x 0.16 copper is 0.8mm2/12.8a, typical rating for copper is 16a/1mm2. How much a tinned coating adds I wouldn't know, possibly tinning may even reduce the ampacity. Pure nickel optimally is 4.459a/1mm2 or 6.619a/1mm2 is acceptable. For my HE2 140a 17.5ah pack 7s7p, Swizzbee will peak at...

Likely is that they have differing firmware for different controllers/ motors. Intellegent supply displays to various suppliers.