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:eek: Horrible.

This is the type of seller I used from China cheap as chips, do as I did buy one pair to try and if they prove to work well go buy a a few more pairs for stock. I have about a dozen pairs in my supplies box which should last me several years...

You have two options buy some rivnuts and fit a two or three new ones or drill new holes in the battery carrier to line up with the bottle rivnuts.

Pads material may be too hard and also not compatible with your discs. I have had a couple pairs of cheaper ebay pads that have been pants like yours and initially ok but then glazed with little or no bite for stopping. Generally though I use cheap China pads and have very good stopping power...

The scary bit is the 8 pages of ejits who have actually purchased them :eek:.

Supply an actual link to the kit so we can see it. P1 is dependant on motor gear ratio and internal magnets to get a setting close for ODO reading, then it can be tinkered with to get the reading to match a gps reading.

It will all depend on the controllers capacitors and whether they can handle the extra voltage, the mid drives have integrated controllers and usually they will be potted in silicone to prevent moisture ingress. Only by looking at and old broken unit will you know if it is possible, if in doubt...

There are two TSDZ kits one with and one without throttle, if you want a throttle get the right kit as the software is configured differently and the non throttle version has no input for one on the LCD display. Most hub based kits with Bafang, Luishi or KT controllers usually have the ability...

Jimmy uses copper for bus interconnectors, each cell will have good current flow /share and a series connection on each cell. China made cell packs are hit & miss with the interconnectors and usually skimp on the series connections, often only the first and last cell in a parallel string will...

A 250/350w hub is capable of up to 28/30 mph if used @48v, you just have to get the correct rpm winding for your terrain use.

For all my hubs I have a tin of Moly that I use.

Jimmy has empty tiger shark's he will put what ever cells you want in side.

Any bike shop won't have much clue on the electrics side just the normal mechanical parts.

Error 30 via speed sensor will only occur if the 5v is compromised by moisture.

Probably a typo and should be white PTFE grease, which is easily available.

Though not as tech as the tail radar for the Garmin, if you want a HUD to see behind then there is the motorcycle option with LCD HUD and front and rear mini cameras. The system needs 12 -24v to operate and is hard wired. At about 750ma system draw you could simply uses a 4 or 6s lipo for a...

You may count your self as being fortunate that the cell shorted and caused no further issue, it might look like a minor failure but in reality is quite a major failure. Shame though as a good waste of a MJ1 cell. On a safety note one reason why lithium -ion is preferred over li-polymer.

Have to strongly agree no corners should be cut if tab welding your own packs and an insulator on the V+ end is a must.

In the past if a speed signal/sensor error, 21 is the only error I have seen.

30 is comms so simply the issue is a failed LCD, trunk cable or controller has a component failure. Most likely the latter due to damp/moisture. Simple issues like brakes just throw up and easy 'error 5' to sort out. If you get 12 before hand then definitely a new controller is required.