Search results

P1 46 (will be close ) for D/D hubs you can confirm the speed read out with gps. Longwinded more accurate P1 setting. https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/q100-motor-–-parameter-p1-explained-–-speed-alignment.33072/ P2 if the hub has internal or ext hall spd sensor value 1 or 6 for odo...

This is where adding a kit to a bike has advantages as they can be done, some oem bikes can have a throttle added but you have to be careful on the bike to choose. Getting an answer from a seller/dealer may get you no where, typically you need to but from people with the knowledge or answers...

A 500W DD is unlikely to gain you more speed, if you want more speed you need to up the voltage.

They are not intended/designed for after market throttle to be added so even trying to add one won't is a no go unless there is a spare/capped off julet from the trunk cable at the display end on the handle bars.

I have three devices and all are within 0.1v so use that as my base line also the readings agree with my lcd display readings so again quite happy. Also having afew spare cells lying about for torches helps as when fully charged they read 4.19/4.2v. Consensus is charging to 42v damages cells...

Freezing moisture maybe then in lcd or a bad/poor wire connection where damp has frozen creating poor current flow or intermittent short. Pin pointing issue may be hard.

Probably a new controller needed.

On all my hubs C2 is 0 if I try other values they run rough. Try value 0 and if your hub is ok leave it alone other wise try all 8 values but don't use the throttle to test as full amps may cause damage with wrong value, always use PAS for testing drive and once you are happy with the hubs...

Throttle can only be fitted if the controller has a spare wire output for one, most std throttle are 3 wires. To find the controller follow the thick motor wire to it, then remove it from it's housing and take clear pics of any spare wiring and post for us to see. If controller is integrated...

Cold freezing may affect the cells out putting voltage until they have warmed up and may have been what occurred. The fact the power switched off is battery/Bms issue, voltage supply. Where at work is the battery left ?

The julet are not easy to test as you need to know the pin layout. All I know is you have B+, Gnd, ignition lock (on/off)tx /rx (comms). The controller may be fried or faulty. I saw the same today when Pedelecer John turned up with his DIY kit Brompton hub and controller etc not working. The...

Of all my kits the least used and least liked is my BBS01, I haven't used it for about a year.

If you get the chance try for a refund/send the BBS back and use Woosh, get the tdsz2.

Thanks Awol looking forward to it arriving, I use a 3S HK graphene. With the Boss 3.5 & 4ms gave good welds with 0.15mm nickel so will need to do some test welds to find my new settings. The Malectric looks a slightly better finished welder with all contained in a nice casing, the Boss is a...

I have posted pics on ES Boss thread showing what I think is a fried component possibly a nano solid state looking resistor. Hoping Aulakiria the designer will see it to confirm. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=89076&start=375 The component is on D1 line on the rear of the...

It is possible to short the display wires together on /at the connector to see if motor works or if you are actually getting any voltage on the cable. We need to know wire colures to do this. Though going back to your 03 error code if it is phase wire & controller has a fault try a simple...

After about 2k miles I stripped mine out to check BB/axle shaft and it was as good as new, I did post pics of the procedure and found no moisture ingress.

My 18a controller started to fail at 1647miles about 30 miles from home in the amongst the woods in Surrey Hills, it was intermittent but managed to get nearer home before complete failure and rode the rest unassisted.

Didn't count but probably 2.5 -3.5k.

Voltage will depend on current SOC so anything from 32 - 42v.