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BMSBattery sell the Dolphin/09 case intergrated controller for the base plate, it will fit any Dolphin battery sourced elsewhere though you have to buy the correct one for your intended voltage use as the 36v WILL NOT work with a 48v battery.

Unfortunately it's not an eMTB as it is 1000w, it is a low powered moped. What ever the specs if it is sub 1k don't expect too much from the battery. Without a link can't say any more.

A Bafang BBS lcd screen and trunk cable will be required to ensure the pin outs are correct. Parts are readily available a basic C961 lcd about £50 and trunk cable for £25, speed sensor £10 and a brake sensor is advisable. Eclipse bikes, GBK, BMSB, PSWPower, ebay and Aliexpress will have the...

You need a kit with a Hailong battery that has the controller integrated on the base fitting.

Don't forget that is controller watts output not watts at the hub, the watts output from the hub minus efficacy will be max 563w. With C5 you can adjust output required to suit you needs. Though probably the 22a/845w max from the front hub might be too much.

Shame they only do KT/Hailong controller and not the standard controller in Julet as well.

Quite right for 12s for someone like your self or I , who understand and can set max cell to 41.5v each but 36v/50v caps controller no use at all for 48v/13s battery as the max volts per cell would be a tad under storage charge of 38.5v.

It's a 12v battery so only 3s, so won't do diddly on a bike. Likely to be 3 x12ah lipo pouch cells wired in series, whether each cell can deliver 1500a unlikely I would say. I have a tiny 4ah 3s lipo which has a 65/130a rating and easily turned over my flat car battery (car not used very much...

Most likely not unless it is an older Bosch gen1 battery, the bms has command protocols so if a newer pack, I don't think it would work. If the bms was swapped out for a generic one then it should work ok with any other 36v China kit whether hub or mid drive.

Thanks for the heads up Russ.

LCD3 allows you to reduce amps using C5 parameter by up to -5a on older s/w versions or newer s/w versions by a % rate up to 50%. Controller needs to be rated to handle 48v, most 36v controllers only have 50v caps so will not handle 48v. The dual voltage and true 48v controllers will have 63v...

The Yose front hubs don't have the torque in NM of the rears so maybe a bit weedier but no reason not to go 48v just limit the amps to 12 to start with to see how it goes. You will need a new controller (suggest dual 36/48v 15a kt ) and change connectors on peripheral's. Currently you are prob...

As you are in London ring Jimmy for a price and pay him a visit, about 10/12 mins walk from Bounds Green tube station. For 25ah you are looking at 7 or 8 cells in P so not able to fit even in a large case, if you have an enclosure ofrframe bag he will design/weld it up to fit.

Keep an eye on the voltage in case it drops, ideally 3.8/3.85v is a better storage value. Damp is more of a concern.

Looking at the connector there is no way of knowing what it is for. If it was a throttle connector white is the signal wire , black is gnd, one red will be a switched live or show 4 - 5v and the other permanent for battery voltage . A check with meter will tell you if one is showing battery voltage.

As the Arduino boss spot welder isn't really designed to do copper, I was going to layer the nickel 3 times which means lot of welding. The H nickel is 7.5mm x 0.15mm so 1.125 mm2 and good for about 5a optimal or 7.4a acceptable. Nickel ampacity is only 4.46a per 1 mm2 for optimal temperature...

100 PF cells with weld spots cleaned off from de-constructed long cell packs, interconnectors were 0.15mm nickel and quite easy to remove leaving only nickel.weld spikes to clean off. Cell connectors and pure nickel H strip arrived from China today, ordered from my favourite AliEx seller...

I just enlarged one of the pics Kirstin and originally what I thought were wire nicks are actually spliced/soldered wires with no insulation covering them. Also notice the scorched wires, looks like charging load was to great for the wiring to handle, the broken wire either solder joint has...

Pics K. Some of the sense wires disappear in between cell rows so hard to see which ones go where. No doubt a chap of your ability if not re- constructing the pack can simply check the wire voltages if splicing the wires or simply solder your bms jst wires on to the appropriate cell group.

Have you fitted a TA on the other side ?