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Yes all ok there then. Definitely switched the battery on ? Does the handle bar display come on and stay on ?

A worth while punt for a measly ton. :rolleyes: Suppose you didn't see an unused swizzbee sitting next to it. Fortunately at the mo, I have been able to sort out rear hub (sram leisure) and other issues like engineering and brushes. If ever the Heinzman or controller go then it will be a strip...

Battery fuse blown ? Have you a meter to see if there is voltage output from the battery terminals.

Well done and a great result, and to boot a reserve get me home battery for longer rides. You may be surprised and that ' dead ' battery may still hold some decent capacity, in which case if you don't need it for extra range alternate the pair in use to keep both healthy.

As with the last post you don't notice much movement unless you hit a biggy, any movement is simply rearwards which causes a slight lowering of height by a few mm.

For 48v check the fuse hasn't blown as may be why you get nothing on the output side or may be a wire fault. USB is another circuit about 5v. 36v could be a bad low cell group. If the charger doesn't switch on then most likely the batteries bms is preventing it doing so because it senses low...

Don't forget most roadies are at 25mph. As AK says try a GSM or get a Yose hub which powers above 16mph quite easily, you need strong legs and fitness though to maintain a higher speed.

No need buy the 28" kit as the sizes are the same in wheel terms. Don't buy the heavy 500/1000w black D/D hubs as they are not suitable. The only annoying thing about the description is they don't supply hub rpm details, however an ebay seller of the same kit states them as 210/230 rpm which is...

You will have to go 122mm as the extra is equal to both sides, I doubt that 6mm will make much of a difference though if necessary you could take a grinder to the rhs if you needed to.

Pleased you are happier. A lot of users seem to tweak existing parameters but don't realise you can have settings to cope with different terrain just a case of programming and using the assist levels as groups of settings and remembering them.

Beware the Suntour system is very glichy and is not without it's issues. Reliability wise from many reports on here it is an issue that remains unresolved.

:eek::eek::eek:.

Check V for both.

For hills you need low winding of about 190/210 rpm for slow speed torque.

Check the battery output voltage with a meter if it been standing for a year. possibility a cell group may have drained a bit so you may have to open it to check all cell groups manually.

I think this is Frank aka Zipi bikes who once upon a time used to frequent the forum many years ago.

Three and a bit weeks on and the brushes arrived from the Aliexpress seller, 15 -20 mins of work this morning and all is well again and the bee is working again. At first I got no response from the electronics, the 4 step ignition sequence appeared not to be working. When the on button is...

If it does a true 17mph or with on 5% then it's a pretty good speed for an oem off the peg bike. If the bike computer has the correct wheel size settable in circumference (mm) then it should be accurate, a gps or garmin type would confirm the speed accuracy.

Taking it to an ebike shop is futile unless they deal with the model/brand then all they would do is replace parts if available. Very few are set up or have know how of how to repair electronics or look to try and find an issue ( exception being a company like Woosh bikes who are very good but...

Looking at your pic again of the sensors pcb board, one of the screws is badly corroded so moisture has got in,likely hood is the back of the board with the solder traces etc may be compromised. If you were able to unscrew the board and gently move it to look behind, you may find that corrosion...