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Would be a shame to spoil it with a kit.

Swizzbee is oem s-ped from 2006 so not a conversion but a nice bike when it's in full swing. A bit nosiy due to mid drive mounted brushed motor (behind seat post). It has it's own special thread and needs a bit of TLC every now and then. BBS is ok done about 2700 miles but on it's second...

A nice bike, looks good.

Or /even Tony :rolleyes:.

Can you post a battery pic maybe we can guide you to open it for a peek inside. Could be something simple like a bad/loose wire.

Some bike sellers are just that often they don't have much clue about the workings esp batteries. To open and repair can be time consuming and often not cost effective to them. Could the arcing be the contacts ? Have a look at the battery contact and bike docking contacts to see if they are...

If you wan't to be legal & adamantly want 250w rating simply go to Woosh bikes, two kits spring to mind and run both at 48v/13 cells in series. For towing if using axle hitch mid drive will be more suitable then hub drive. If any of the bikes have hub gears then mid drive kits. SWXO2 250w 48v...

Kalhoff are meant to be quality but only if you choose carefully. There are good hubs and bad hubs equally there are good mid drive and bad mid drive. Even Bosch aren't without there issues.

Swizzbee. Boardman. Norco. Cube.

Looks a bit like the Oxygen frame so could be a generic frame.

ES is a great resource for techy stuff and motor knowhow. I was going to post that the three phase wires are usually marked A,B or C . Then saw Wheelipete's post :mad:. Any how A = Blue B = Green C = Yellow. B is the middle phase , and with the other two just a case of swapping over if motor...

The Pendleton is what it is, a cheap Chinese hack for mooching around town an errand bike.

Get the controller less GSM mid drive from Woosh and get KT 17a controller or try this cheaper controller lcd combo below. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-48V-Electric-Bicycle-E-bike-Scooter-Brushless-Motor-Speed-Controller-Kit-LCD/323396809738?var=512458610195 The GSM kit comes with correct...

Yes you made a mess of that :(. Looks like a few resistors have blown. A new controller is about 10-20 quid probably a square wave one just need to find out what the thin yellows do/go to.

Correct it was typo error, don't know why I inputted C10. Now corrected.

The three white are phase on most drives they tend to be green, blue and yellow so you need to find where they are connected and any reference/labelling on the board. Two thin ones will be for sensors or a sensor of some kind. How does the bike work throttle only or PAS, does it register speed...

Cyclones <500w have internal controllers, I'm guessing they are brushed but could be wrong you need to take a good clear pic or two of the controller/wiring connection. If they are brushless there is more choice of controllers to use. Brushed controllers have 2 wires to motor and brushless has 3...

You probably didn't check polarity and connected in correctly smoking the controller. Current shouldn't matter as controller will only draw the current it needs. In correct voltage (to high) or wrong polarity will cause the magic smoke.

Rob is always biased to crank drive, buy a decent hub brand and they give very good service. My hubs give me little issues a part from the odd bearing that needs replacing if things get noisy and a bit of grease.. At least with hub bearings they are easier to repair then Bosch etc. Hub bearing...

Drilling a hole in the hub may be good idea for greasing but best done worth hub open as you wouldn't want any pieces of swarf/filings in the hub to cause damage later down the line.. When I get a new hub I always open it and add grease if needed and screw it up just tight enough so I know it...