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Generally there is no real need to change any of the settings as they are usually good straight out of the box. Speed setting in the basic screen is the main one and wheel size which should be set. It's worth while scrolling thru and making a note of all the settings if you want to change any...

You can have it all the way down if that is what you mean ! Or if you mean the minimum that's needed to be inserted then that is about 100mm or so there is a line marked to which not to go beyond.

The faster you try to pedal (rpm) the battery energy is turned in to speed so try lower setting in the speed % tab and set A limits high. You should feel more torque at a lower speed then higher speed when climbing. All trial and error.

You missed out mid drive. For lightweight simplest kit to fit Is the Revos friction drive kit all done and dusted on 10 - 20 mins. Front drive tends to be more of a pull me along affect as some times the front wheel will scrabble on loose/wet surface.. No torque arm needed with steel forks...

If you have a odo reading then it may have an internal speed sensor.

The triangle 20a uses 2500mah cells but doesn't say which ones could be Sam 25R, lg HE2/4 or Sony VTC5A which are the high power cells. As you say will give more range. I can't say how far the BBSHD will go on any of those batteries as I don't run a high amp/high power 35a/1500/1800w set up...

Might be attached to RHS front fork if it is an after market cycle computer, should have a spoke magnet attached.

Throttle is akin to riding in pas 5 so battery range will suffer. I use mine for 50+ mile rides and last one last week was 71 miles, so for range and saving mah I use mainly pas1 to 17mph and then 0 for up to 19mph on flatter terrain. Occasionally I use pas 5 for steeper inclines, though I do...

For BBSHD 35E is a poor choice you will need 30Q or GA cells in 5P configuration. If feeling flush VTC6.

It is either a typo or they are being typically Chinese and misselling. There is no 35Q but there is a 35E cell which I expect they are selling. The 35E is an ok cell but GA is better. Post note. Just looked it is sold correctly as 35E, looks like you have got your Q's & E's confused.

LCD3 only has 5 pas levels, 0 is no assist.

The only issue with Yose web site is they don't mention the hub winding (rpm). Ideally this is helpful in choosing one for your needs. The rear 350w comes in either 270 or 300rpm which Elifeshop lists them as and the front is listed as a 210rpm in a 26" rim so a 28" may be similar.

Not so !!! 30Q is a 3000mah cell so 5P can only be 15ah (5 x 3000 = 15000mah/15ah). GA although sold as 3500mah cell, it's real world mah is about 3300 so 16.5ah. Cell resistance is said to be higher then most so may affect long term life with voltage sag becoming more evident as it age's...

Set the last 4 or 5 pas levels for high torque/hill climbing. Set % limit (Amps) all to 100% & vary the % speed from 20 - 50 or 60 (if you set this too high you lose the torque effect). Then in the lower pas levels set for low torque but high speed for flat terrain. Vary the % limit (Amps)...

You should ideally fit two on a front hub and one on a rear. Woosh bikes sell front and rear hub kits. Yose power 28" front hub kit on site now any battery can be used.

The reason I'm spinning out is the gearing I could go larger on the front ring but generally I struggle on anything larger then 48t at slower speeds, so it is a compromise. My remarks was to let potential buyers know that the motor may well and probably will go a bit faster if you have the power...

Finished repairing a 3s cell pack I put in series with a 10s pack, after my last ride over the S/Down's. 3s pack failed and although reading 12v and my 10s reading 40v, when in series I got a very funny voltage reading. The jarring/bumpy terrain over/on the Down's caused four welds to fail...

With 9 assist levels you can as Kirstin has done and I have also done, have two different performance motors from one. Set the first 4 or 5 pas levels for low range torque and fast speed ideal for flat terrain riding then set the remainder for high torque low speed climbing range. As I ride the...

The Julet connectors although water resistant aren't 100% water proof as I have in the past encountered moisture ingress, this has shown up as green oxidisation between two pins causing a temporary short until rectified. A small application/smear of non conductive grease will help moisture from...

The obvious is avoiding standing water that may enter via the hub cable entry, also as you have fitted the hub motor ensure the axle slot/motor cable exits down wards with a drip loop so water can't track in. If you want to a big blob of grease inside the axle cap will help against moisture...