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Recently got some 700c x38 SM Sam + tyres for my Boardman for off road riding and trails, a bit more expensive for the extra protection so will see how they fare at £18.50 each.

Get Jimmy to recell it with Sanyo/Panasonic GA cells or he might persuade you to us the Boston swing cell. If it is 4 in parallel you will get a 13.4ah battery or if 5 in parallel 16.75ah battery using GA cells. The price he gives is the price you pay. My brothers Bosch gen1 battery with GA was...

They are ok for low power stuff with max 15a controllers and left restricted, you have to read the detail to cypher which cells are being used as they vary. Samsung cells used will be mediocre 26F/H (2600mah) max 5.2a rated. LG cells will likely be mediocre LF1 (3350mah} max 4.7a rated for...

For heavy riders the Woosh Big Bear is a suitable good bike or Wisper bikes as David Miall has said in the past, the reason he set out to design the range is because there weren't many options about.

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/yosepower-hub-kits.30061/ 48V kit £15 cheaper if you get it from Elifeshop in #5 in above thread.

This is where a throttle enabled bike comes in handy in a get you out of trouble scenario.

And not counting the many ebike kits fitted by diyers, a read thru pedelec.de threads shows a vibrant scene there as well.

Elifeshop now have same kit available in 48v now, but only as a freewheel version in 26".

The Yose hubs aren't bad so far I have had no issue with mine, I run it at 20a with 36v & 48v (13s) my top gearing is 48/11 and have had it running at a tad over 28mph/45km/h. Hill climbing thus far is good and for a boost pas 4 for a bit more oomph or pas 5 for max amps and 900w + for even...

You are probably confused by reading to much, a mid mount drive powers via the chain to the rear wheel so this is where you may have read about more wear and stress of the chain gear. As mentioned freewheel or cassette is mounted directly on to the hub motor like a D/D hub and drive is indirect...

The OP hasn't indicated how he is charging his SLA's.

Your SLA's are 12v you need 12v car battery charger it is as simple as that.

My answer was in the simplistic laymen's view and that op would be using a 36v controller , the IR increase will show up by means of greater voltage sag and capacity loss over time and as I put it will shag the battery. In Danidl example it would only work with a 24v controller and the lower...

For 15mph average speed you will need a bike that can ride above the cut off quite efficiently, so allowing stop and starting 19-20 mph capable. From BMSB buying bare hub motor is cheapest as the weight and package size is smaller, lacing/building in to a rim in the UK then might be a cheaper...

Depends on the controller amp rating, though invariably if only using say in pas 3 then amps draw will be approx 40-45% of the max rated amp draw. A 48v system with 15a controller is capable of putting out 720w average and at 20a 960w, on a fully charged battery a bit more 780w & 1040w. The...

Batteries in series need to be of equal capacity, the two higher capacity ones will shag the smaller one rendering it useless.

For the competent diyer batteries are often repairable however for a bike brand not so as it is time consuming to dismantle and repair/replace duff cells or other component parts.. Most will need a welder and all the other little bit of paraphernalia needed. Batteries are generally mass...

29E fairs a bit better then the MG1, the only real world graph I've seen for MG1 was on ES. Generally SAM's are a better bet then LG's MG1 although 10a rated is a poor medium rated cell, voltage and ah crashes/sags terribly above 5 -6amps, though delivers good mah at low amp draw.

As mentioned in another thread he has recommended the same bike for reference 3 or 4 times, possibly he's not selling enough of them so easier just to spam.

Not a naughty boy spamming his own products :(!!!