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That's because it's not a tumble dryer or washing machine:oops:.

If drivers can't see you in day light then they shouldn't even be driving.

Looks like you will have to give it a go, then let us know how it went,

Four posts only to date and the same recommend on four threads, Hmmm !!!! You should show your hand and clarify that you are not spamming on a product you have a financial interest in.

My Yosepower 36v hub maxed out at about 23mph with my gearing in 700c wheel. 28pm on pedal power achieved by over volting with 48v @20a, rpm @36v 270/280rpm. Gearing ratio 5:1, how long the hub would last at this speed is unknown. Size wise very similar to the Q128 hubs.

Always worth a look in. Cheap shades I found comfortable the bridge didn't hurt my nose need a new pair of orange ones as broke my last ones ( trod on them :oops:). Wiktop saddle for comfort are good. Any one tried the panniers, If so do they last ? Though for £9.99 a pair, their never going...

D8veh is on the ball again, a simple cheap watt or volt meter wired in would show what is happening voltage wise prior to cut off. Which cells did you go with ? 20 miles then turning off sounds like it might be lvc coming in to play esp if under load.

For 20/25a controller you need to consider using top cells with 15/20a rating or parallel another battery with your existing. Most 20a cells are 2500/2600mah, the good ones are HE2, 25R, Sony URNSX, VTC5. 20a HG2, VTC6 for 3000mah or 30Q 15a rated.

With my older cells that have lost some capacity I see 1 - 1.3v sag @36V or 0.8V - 1.1v sag @48v (13s) by adding a 3s booster pack in series with 20a controller. I always run 2 batteries in parallel to reduce sag and inc range. My 100a HE2 5P 7s & 3s packs are negligible again I use the 3s...

Check the cell group voltages any one group giving a high (4.1v +) or low voltage will stop the bms from switching. Depending on the bms lvc it may not allow charging if a cell is below 3.3v, whilst not in use a cell group may have bled down voltage wise in which case the bms will be at fault...

41.2 v suggests a cell group may be out of balance, if the cell group sags enough under load then it will bring lvc in to play. Once the load is reduced the voltage recovers and it will be above lvc so will work again until the sag under load starts the sequence of events again. The fault may...

PF suffers from higher IR so sag will be noticeable at a higher amp load, although rated as a peak 10a cell 5a continuous appears to be on its limit. What you are experiencing is about right for PF 1+ voltage sag per cell over 20a load, note the temperature at 20c this will quicken the IR and...

If 35km/h isn't enough get a petrol moped. Use the 3 in series and be happy with the increase, 3 more in series then both used in parallel will increase range but then you have the extra weight to consider. Far better as d8veh has said get a lithium battery of a similar ah for much more range...

My controller eventually went tits up, after the growling noise it made. The LVC kept cutting in despite having two charged batteries so the lcd kept swiching off. In the end I kept the batteries and and hub motor and now use KT controllers etc.

Controllers are lishui, the kit is supplied by Daskit in Germany. http://www.das-kit.com/

That kit is one of the Yosepower kits we have been buying and discussing, you are obviously not up to date Cwah. They all use KT 15A controllers with julet connections and are excellent value for the money. In the listings rpm varies from 270 - 320 rpm. I have over volted mine using 13s & 20a...

If you post a link to any battery you are interested in then we can reasonably say what cells might be inside. For 29E a battery will be 11.6 or 14.5ah if states Samsung cells. You have to select the cell for your needs if you want to derestrict or use 20a + controllers, the more in parallel...

It is viable to over volt but mostly point less to under volt. Controller lvc will be to high.

Dry dunes / sand be ok but anywhere near the surf then wet sand /moisture will eventually affect electrical connections and if any saline moisture gets in to the battery then you might be binning it. Saline is the batteries worst enemy as well as everyday rain.

I would first check the charge point of the battery and the wiring joints, then various main wiring continuity checks after you can simulate it in non charging mode. Then move on to the sense wires for continuity and good sound solder joints to the cells.