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Modding for 48v might be more aggro then it's worth as not only will need 2 470uf 50v caps replacing also 3 smaller 47uf 50v caps need replacing as well, possibly some other smaller component's also may not be up to extra voltage required. New dedicated chargers are quite cheap £7.50 - £16.

Yes to keep an eye on you ;).

Either leave the throttle connected if it dose work all ok as sometimes having throttle is dead handy. The other scenario is that you have kinked damaged a wire when you crashed and it is intermittently shorting out.

You can't come on here make a statement and then just tease us :rolleyes::rolleyes:. What cells at are you using and configuration ? How are you building the battery soldering, spot welding or other ?

I don't know but I have a good one for you. ' I have recently started a new training fitness regime and it involves me having to put up with ogling women in the pursuit of fitness, the wife isn't over joyed but I have told her it is necessary for my bad knees and it also helps a lot more for...

I am slowly going over to 13s but still using my 36v packs (until they are no longer viable) coupled with 3s booster packs ( from cannibalising a 13ah oxygen battery) so still using my 42v Sans and a cheap 3s charger from ebay. Looking ahead for when I replace my batteries with dedicated 48v...

They are very heavy at about 30kg's.

The 5k VR max output is too low for 12s so futile changing it out. The guy in the link did it so that it could work 9 to 11s.

For 12s the two 50v cans in the view could be swapped out for 63v ones. The big one for the mains is 400v is out of view under the aluminium roof.

I have a few various chargers for 36v batteries but most are Sans branded black plastic bodied ones. A couple are spot on and read 42v output, however another couple I have read 42.8v output so I set about adjusting them which was quite easy. In this pic the plastic blue square is the Voltage...

You need to open the controller at the opposite end to the wiring and see the voltage of the in rush capacitor usually located next to the shunt.

The controller kit sounds pretty good, dual voltage like the KT's but with added bonus of varying the amps with out modding the shunt.

If it's KT then they are easy to get hold of from China, via PSWPower/Elifebike , BMSBattery or Aliexpress.

Your meter may be out because it needs a new battery if that is not the answer get a ne meter, make sure it is one with continuity buzzer for wire/ circuit fault finding. It did appear a strange scenario that 2 new chargers were thought faulty. When you get strange results/readings it's always...

Sounds like Eddie's got the right idea oggling the girls :oops:, on the pretext of extra fitness classes o_O.

Welcome to the forum Ravi, For easier work commute & cruising at your desired speed then 48v makes sense. Also makes sense converting the bike you use most, pointless converting if you are not going to use it. Hub for commute and mid drive for mtb off road. A rear hub is a better ride then a...

Mike, you can do your own valuation. Bike price new minus age devaluation. 1 year old -- 25% 18 months -- 30% 2 year old -- 35% 3 year old -- 45%. then subtract new battery replacement price, then add to this figure the residual battery value. In your case 1/4 value of a new battery. Formula...

Yes run it at 52 or 60v. 35km/h or about 23mph is probably the terminal speed of the hub motor winding which is probably about 260 or 270rpm. For more speed you will need to find a big hill to go down or increase the voltage.

A good idea as it seems odd that two chargers are showing the same output if new.

48v will fry the controller as the main in rush cap is only 50v. The hub is quite fastly wound at about 270/280rpm or 23mph in a 700c rim. At 48v the motor has far more torque/acceleration and if needed more speed ( hub rpm will inc from circa 270/280 to approx 335/350 rpm). With a 20a...