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this diagram may look complicated but it's not really. http://www.analyticcycling.com/PedalModelConcept_Page.html note the theta2 angle between the thigh and the horizontal. The maximum strength is between 30 degrees to 50 degrees.

http://www.caa.co.uk/Our-work/Make-a-report-or-complaint/MOR/Mandatory-occurrence-reporting/

they are in your face propaganda.

I don't find hashtags as vexatious as Tom's 'infographics'.

they look like altocumulus.

what else do you do beside ranting all day?

The 34.1V that you see is the voltage at rest, when the battery is working, it drops a bit depending on how long and how intense it has been used just before. You have probably seen that when you stop and let the battery rest for 10 minutes, you sometimes get one bar back on the LCD's battery...

dear oldtom, when you run out of arguments, you simply call people who disagree with you 'extremists' except they don't return the compliment.

I would suggest the Zephyr C but the range is a bit short, due to its 10.4AH battery. It has twist style gear shift, is low enough to step through. Fitted with carbon belt drive, racks, mudguards, lights. Price: £799 Zephyr-C: If you want more comfortable riding 30 miles in one trip and...

Hatti is on holiday this week, I'll ask her when she gets back.

That why Chinese motors can't still compete with Bosch - they produce big power but in the same shape as the Yamaha's whereas it would be better to refine delivery. You can reprogram the 48V BBS02 to make it a bit more like the CX but without a torque sensor, fitter e-cyclists won't be satisfied.

hello Dave, If I find them, I'll send you a pair.

The main attraction for me is that the BBS01 output maxes out at 70 rpm, the CX at 90 rpm. The CX clearly targets fitter e-cyclists.

that's the consensus but until you try, you don't know for certain.

try and PM me the results. Don't go over 17A.

there are always the strong geared hub motors - they don't make you feel like having bionic legs but they climb hills just as competently without requiring you to up your cadence.

not at the factory. We put in a small cabletie to let the water out and seal the cable inlet in Southend. I suppose we can drill a 3mm hole to let the water out.

That's a good tip. you only need to record your odo readings and the time it takes to charge back to full. If you want to be forensic, take also the voltage before charging begins. Batteries lose a little bit of bounce at the beginning when it's brand new, then it will settle down to normal...

the proof of the pudding is to get more miles out of a full charge than last time. Try for 50 miles target.

the torque arms are there to make sure that even when the wheel nuts are not tight, the motor wheel won't come off.