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this is the torque arm for the rear wheel that we use: You need an allen key to remove it but it's quite secure.

the 500W is factory rating, not nominal rating. You can ask for OEM labelling to BBS02B 36V 25A 250W. I like the way Bosch make their motors. They reduce their exposure to abuse by imposing a maximum assist ratio and limit the maximum torque. I think it's possible to emulate their philosophy by...

You should get more miles than last time.

that's true to a large extent. What I meant to say is there are limits at both ends of the RPM spectrum, otherwise, you would have infinite torque at the zero RPM end and infinite RPM at the other end. At the high RPM end, the motor is limited by its Kv constant. Kv is the number of noload RPM...

I don't know for sure, there are so many schemes! I'll ask her when she calls in.

changing the voltage at low loss is the job for a switch mode PSU, with our current state of electronic designs, it won't pass EN15194 on electromagnetic emission limit. You are better off using a mechanical gearbox or derailleur.

although it can be but we don't guarantee your bike if you derestrict it. PS: Hatti who deals with cycle to work schemes is on holiday until Sunday.

the battery and controller cutoff is 31V but because of the voltage sag, you will see the motor stuttering at about 33V-33.5V. the bottom 20% of the battery capacity is difficult to ride with.

they are repairable, they get stuck with rust. usually just clean out the rust around the wire taps and switch actuator, then give them a bit of grease over the wire taps to protect them from further rain water but may not be worth the hassle, a new pair of levers costs only a few £.

no, the new gale looks suspiciously like the old one, except for some small changes (brakes, suspension fork, chainwheel). The Gales going out from today have ant-scruff protections:

if you want a good CD motor, the CX is difficult to beat, runner up is the Shimano Steps 8000.

Mike, please email support regarding replacement of the brake levers. They are made by Artek and are quite good. The problem is usually water ingress. They are quite easy to strip it down. The switch is protected by a rubber cover but somehow water always manage to get in over time. Check first...

I quote the guy who posted it on pedelecforum.de https://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/bosch-yamaha-brose-shimano-motorkennlinien-im-direkten-vergleich.47822/

d8veh asked the same question re. the CX plot suggests it still gives nearly 400W at 120 RPM while their website says it should not assist. I take these graphs with a pinch of salt when I cannot find a second source. There is good engineering and bad engineering but power from the motor depends...

there is a problem with that strategy. The EU won't do refund, even partial, on the divorce settlement. We have to choose between cancelling A50, customs union or just transitional period. If parliament does not take control of the negotiation, TM will sleep walk into transitional arrangement...

Many thanks for the suggestions. I have removed the rear disc brakes, changed the fork and the chain cover paint to black. I'll post some pictures in a couple of weeks when the new Gale arrives.

7 hours, that's very good. Your battery should be OK now. It was unbalanced, now it is balanced.

if it has been as hot since the beginning then it should be OK to use. The simplest way to check out the charger and battery is to use a power consumption meter like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Power-Consumption-Meter-Energy-Monitor-KWH-Calculator-Usage-Plug-In-Electricity/142313933330...

no. it should be warm to touch but not hot, about 35-40 degrees Celsius. don't use it if it is too hot to touch. Do you have anything to measure its temperature?

when you go to vote, you believe in some of the lies.