1st ebike conversion road bike or MTB with skinny tires? which starter for 20 mile commute each way

[Woosh]

Have a look at the thread about the Q128C motor post#19. The complete kit is about £500 from BMSBattery.com.

I have placed an initial order for 48V kits which should be compatible with the Q128H but running at 17A instead of 20A. It's meant to be used with the SWX02C rather than Q128H.
The 48V kit should arrive in September and priced to compete with bmsbattery.

 

[Nealh]

If you feel 500w is too much power, there aren't many plug and play 250w geared hub kits. Most are 350w or 500w, for 250w go for a kit maybe from Panda. Alternatively you need to get a separate hub motor/wheel and a get a complete controller kit with lcd etc, Kt ones from PSWPower are good.
Largely most battery connections are bullet so a battery can be sourced from the UK, however sometimes soldering is necessary.

2.2kg light motor.
http://www.greenbikekit.com/electric-bike-kit/rear/100cst-cassette-freewheel-e-bike-kit-36v-250w.html

Any good cycle shop can build a wheel for you.
http://www.greenbikekit.com/electric-motor/rear-bldc/e-bike-cassette-freewheel-hub-motor-36v-250w-light-weight-high-speed.html to go with,
KT controller kit 5 pas levels.
http://www.pswpower.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2016-3F-39N8.50CQE

https://www.pandaebikes.com/shop/conversion-kits/panda-250-smart-electric-bike-kit-36v-250w-black-motor/
Panda use KT controller.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Make sure you get a KT controller, to experience the silence when under full power.

20A for the Q128H is nothing. With the KT controller, you can always turn it down. Mind you, at your weight, that motor will fly at only 15A with 48v.

 

[BornAgainCyclist]

Daft question perhaps, how easy is it to fit the motor to the wheel and keep it true?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Like everything, it's easy when you know how. There's loads of Youtube guides on how to lace a wheel. I learn't from Sheldon Brown's guide.

You can get the motor pre-built into a wheel from BMSB. The cost is nearly the same overall. Their wheel-building isn't fantastic, they usually leave the spokes too loose, but that's no problem because you'll probably have to adjust it anyway to get the rim central in your frame.

 

[BornAgainCyclist]

Found the wheel on their website, thanks. Their form doesn't seem to be correctly displayed as no wheel choice selection. That combo does look good for a Boardman Hybrid or Voodoo Marasa say.

Did notice that there was no display / mode selector / assist selector on the chap's order. What would go nicely with that kit?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Found the wheel on their website, thanks. Their form doesn't seem to be correctly displayed as no wheel choice selection. That combo does look good for a Boardman Hybrid say.

Did notice that there was no display / mode selector / assist selector on the chap's order. What would go nicely with that kit?

The wheel size box is right at the bottom of the page.

Everything is included with the battery kit: controller, LCD, PAS, throttle, brakes, cables.

 

[BornAgainCyclist]

Ah so it is and thanks, too many acronyms on the battery page to register them all.

 

[BornAgainCyclist]

The specs for the Q128C are very light, is there a torque measurement anywhere for the 36v 201 on both 36 and 48V?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The torque depends on how much current and voltage it gets. At the same current, torque will be approximately 33% more at 48v. I'm running with 14 amps at 48v on mine. That gives plenty of torque for steep hills. At 20 amps, it would be a tractor.

Torque figures are more or less meaningless because it's different at every different speed. I would guess that the max torque of a Q128C at 48v and 20 amps would be on the region of 90 Nm at zero RPM or 60Nm at 10km/h. Don't try and compare that with a Bosch. Their torque is not real torque. It's an arbitrary figure based on a particular theoretical chain-ring size and a 1:1 ratio to the back wheel. You can make the torque whatever you want on a CD by changing the gearing 1000Nm is possible if you could balance the bike at such a low speed.

 

[BornAgainCyclist]

I noticed they do a torque sensor included version of that battery for another 40 quid. That seems like a good deal if it is truly worth it and fits of course.

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/701-48v116ah-bottle-09-panasonic-battery-torque-sensor-battery.html

Is the only difference between the 08 and 09 bottle the sine controller's Amps?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I've never found any advantage of a torque sensor. For a kit, they're generally expensive and heavy.
08 battery is the lower profile one called shark. 09 is the higher pod-shaped one called dolphin. The 08 is more waterproof when it comes to serious rain, but it's fixing points are further up, so if your bottle fixings are close to the BB, you'll have to insert your own rivnuts into the frame.

 

[BornAgainCyclist]

Got you, thanks. How would you know which one to get?

 

[Woosh]

've never found any advantage of a torque sensor. For a kit, they're generally expensive and heavy.

I am going to use the Bafang torque sensor in the revised Woosh Bermuda.
It will have an optional throttle in case your legs are too tired.
Weight is not too much of a problem because it replaces the normal bottom bracket.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Got you, thanks. How would you know which one to get?

There's not really an answer to that, except that the receiver for the 08 is wide and flat, so you need to find a way to stop it rocking on a round tube frame. There is a special adapter, but I can't remember where you get them from.

 

[BornAgainCyclist]

Sounds like the 09 is the most likely to fit on a standard hybrid bike such as the Boardman or Voodoo. I am surprised to hear the torque sensor doesn't make that much of a difference, although I can see why they could be horses for courses in the e bike world.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

A torque sensor makes a difference, but the question is whether the difference is what you want. Some people say they like them, some say they don't. I don't. I'd rather have the motor's power independent of my pedalling. that way I can pedal with whatever effort I want and I can get whatever power level I want when I want. Think about when you've been out for a 40 mile ride and you come to a steep hill. You can only get up that steep hill by pedalling hard if you have a torque sensor. You might not be able to, so it's get off and push.

 

[BornAgainCyclist]

I completely get that. Horses for courses. Maybe on a small motor it makes more sense to give your hard work a boost with a throttle for those hills. If the assist levels are nicely spaced I can see why one isn't needed.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I think you misunderstand. I use a pedal cadence sensor, not a throttle.

 

[BornAgainCyclist]

I'm with you. My post was a hypothetical one involving torque sensors and a throttle for getting up that hill you mentioned.