27 Month Kalkhoff Pro Connect Review

tillson

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 29, 2008
5,249
3,197
Reviewer: tillson

Retailer: 50 Cycles

Purchase Price: £1495 + £100 Cycle Scheme administration charge.

Time Owned: 2 years - 3 Months

Terrain: Very Hilly

Modifications / Accessories

18 tooth rear sprocket, Magura HS33 brakes, Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tyres, 32 spoke front and rear wheels, Shimano Alfine Gear Hub, 900 Lumen front light, Axa Defender wheel lock, Cateye 300 bar end mirror, Hapo-G waterproof panniers and Blackburn 1 Watt rear light, Sigma 500 wired speedo / milometer.

Strengths:

General

The Kalkhoff Pro-Connect is a very solidly built bike and it has a very good paint finish. Nothing about the bike feels flimsy or fragile, and you immediately get the impression that it will soak up abuse. I clean it every now and again and it has retained a, “good as new” look even after 2 years and 6500 miles.

The Panasonic drive system, as far as I am concerned, is faultless. It can always be relied upon to work, even in the most foul weather conditions. The sealed nature of the power unit and the fact that the battery fits directly into it negates the necessity for wiring and the associated potential for faults which that brings with it. I have used the bike when roads have been turned into shallow rivers and when temperatures have fallen below -8 deg C. It has never faltered and it wouldn’t surprise me if the power unit continued to operate whilst submerged. Personally, I like the way in which the Panasonic system integrates with the rider. The way in which the system tops up the rider’s muscle power by driving directly onto the chain feels very natural. I have heard it described as being, bionic.

Gears

The Alfine 8 speed hub gear, when matched to an appropriate rear sprocket, provides a useful range of gear ratios. Coupled with the Panasonic power unit, the lower gears will climb virtually anything and the higher gears allow the rider to cruise comfortably at 25 mph on a slight downhill with a pleasant pedal cadence. The gear hub also requires very little in the way of maintenance. I have done nothing with it other than to wipe the casing clean.

Drive

I am still using all of the original drive train after 6500 miles and see no reason to replace any of the parts. I lubricate the chain, when I remember, with a very small amount of Bike Hut chain wax. The chain is effectively running dry for most of its life. On rare occasions, I have cleaned the chain in kerosene and blown it dry with compressed air.

Overall, I find this bike excellent for the purpose that I bought it for, commuting to and from work. Put simply, it is completely reliable and requires very little in the way of maintenance. It never crosses my mind that it might develop a fault en-route.

Weaknesses:

Wheels

The model I purchase had a 24 spoke wheel design. Initially, I had problems with spokes coming loose, unexplained ticking and clicking and then the rear wheel rim wore out after about 9 months, 2200 miles. It took a lot of effort to sort this problem out. I didn’t think that a 24 spoke wheel was appropriate for the bike and equally, I didn’t want to scrap my 9 month old gear hub and have to buy a new one. After writing directly to Derby Cycles, they replaced both the front and rear wheels with 32 spoke variants. These wheels transformed the feel of the bike for the better, and I have had no trouble at all for the 4300 subsequent miles that I have travelled on them. I think these wheels are now fitted as standard on the newer Pro Connects.


Brakes

I found that the standard Shimano brakes were a bit, “flimsy” for an ebike. It seemed like I was replacing the brake pads every other week. I have now changed them for Magura HS33 brakes. These were very easy to fit, they give a very nice brake action and the pads last for many miles. I have only changes the front pads once in over 4000 miles and the rear pads are still the originals.

Ride

The Pro Connect gives a very harsh ride that might not suit everyone. It definitely is not a bike to take on uneven ground unless you want your skeleton smashing and internal organs liquidising. If you ride over a decent pot hole, you are rewarded with overwhelming violence from the bike.
However, I bought this bike to use only on the road. I wanted a quick, efficient bike and the riding position coupled with the lack of suspension makes it just that, quick and efficient. Once it has punished you few times, you get used to its vices and it becomes part of its charm!

Lighting

The standard lighting relies on filament type bulbs. Or put another way, it is fitted with rubbish lighting. Again, this has been addressed on the newer bike by fitting LED type lights. I have retained the original lighting because I like the on off switch being situated on the handlebars. The rear light isn’t bad in fairness. To supplement the original lights, I have fitted a very bright 900 Lumen front LED and a home made variable power rear LED.

Stand

The stand has broken three times over the two years that I have owned the bike. Once because I am an idiot, and twice without any help from me. 50 Cycles have replaced the stands free of charge on each occasion. Because it is bolted directly onto the bike frame, something has to break if the stand is over stressed. Stands are cheaper than frames, so it is the stand which is sacrificed by having a, “fuse” of weakness built into it. I suppose it is just doing its job, so it might be unfair to put this under the heading of a fault.


Battery

It is very difficult to know what to say about the battery. There is a built in self test on the Panasonic battery which supposedly gives an indication of the battery’s capacity, or health. By pressing and holding the charge level indicator button for about five seconds, after which the five charge level lights go out and then re-illuminate, you get an indication of the capacity of the battery. The battery is rated at 10 Ah from new and there are five lights, so each light represents 2 Ah. After five months of ownership, my battery was indicating a drop in capacity to 8 Ah. 50 Cycles replaced the battery with a new one on the day that I reported the problem. The same thing happened to the replacement two month later. 50 Cycles again replaced this battery in January 2009. This third battery showed a drop in capacity within 2 months of using it.

Subsequently, we have found out, via this forum, that the capacity meter is not entirely accurate. The meter has a tendency to drift and give a false impression that the battery is failing. To remedy this, if the battery is completely discharged and then re-charged, the capacity meter is re-set and the battery behaves as it should and will indicate good health.

I am still using the battery from January 2009. It just about has the capacity to complete my 20 mile, very hilly, commute to and from work, but the battery is nearing fully discharged by the time I arrive home (when ridden on standard power, 18 tooth rear sprocket). The capacity meter is now reading an irretrievable 4 LEDs (not due to meter drift), or less than 8 Ah capacity and I have recently taken to charging it at each end of the commute.

I think that by January 2011, when the battery is 2 years old, it will have covered about 6500 miles. It is highly likely that it won’t be able to cover the 20 mile round trip to and from work on one charge. However, for me, charging at work is no inconvenience and I hope to get at least another year out of the battery.

I think that it is fair to say that just about 2 years or 7000 – 8000 miles is what you could expect from the battery based on a 20 mile round trip commute in a very hilly area using an 18 tooth sprocket. If you want to continue using the battery after that time, expect to have to recharge it at each end of the journey. The battery is easily removable and the charger light enough to carry, so this isn’t a major drama.

I don’t think that the issues I mention are unique to the Panasonic battery. Any battery, from other manufacturers, using a similar chemistry will most likely suffer in the same way. In fact, Panasonic are probably the best of the bunch, so the above is a, “best case” scenario. Unfortunately, this is just one of the shortcomings of the current battery technology.


CONTINUED......................
 

tillson

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 29, 2008
5,249
3,197
..................CONTINUATION

Summary:

I realise that I have written more on the negatives than the positives. That said, my impression of the bike is generally very positive. I am pleased that I purchased this bike and if the clock could be re-set to June 2008, I would make exactly the same choice again. The fact that you can almost endlessly charge – ride – charge – ride – charge – ride ……… without any notion of unreliability, coupled with a very natural, bionic, power delivery is what makes this bike so special for me. Also, a quick wash makes it look as good as the day you bought it. This is testament to the quality of the components and the finish.

I don’t think the bike should be viewed as a way to save money on transport costs. If that is your main aim, buy a second hand scooter. If you like the cycling experience, live a bit too far away from work for a regular unassisted daily cycle ride and don’t mind paying a premium for the experience, then this bike makes perfect sense.

I believe it is only available from 50 Cycles. My buying experience has been a bit mixed, but generally acceptable. Their handling of the battery and broken stand issues was exemplary. We had a difference of opinion over the wheels, and I respect their right to an opinion, but I don’t think that they handled the issue in a particularly attractive manner. I have heard of other examples of outstanding service from 50 Cycles that go far beyond their obligations to a customer, so perhaps my wheel issue was a blip. I would buy another bike from them based on my experience as a whole.

Replacement battery costs are an issue for me. At between 25 and 50% of the cost of a new bike, no ebike will ever score above 7/10. I feel that the ridiculous expense of a new battery is stifling the growth of sales and I somehow find that very frustrating.

I have no desire to change this bike for another model, simply because I don’t think there has been anything radically different since June 2008. Until something does change, I’ll remain very happy with my kalkhoff Pro Connect.


Overall rating 7/10
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
52,857
30,405
The Panasonic drive system, as far as I am concerned, is faultless. It can always be relied upon to work, even in the most foul weather conditions. The sealed nature of the power unit and the fact that the battery fits directly into it negates the necessity for wiring and the associated potential for faults which that brings with it. I have used the bike when roads have been turned into shallow rivers and when temperatures have fallen below -8 deg C. It has never faltered and it wouldn’t surprise me if the power unit continued to operate whilst submerged.
Great review Tillson, very comprehensive and entirely fair.

They certain do operate when submerged as this extract from my Kalkhoff test indicates:

Sure enough it was filled with a several yard wide pond, so keeping the pedals horizontal and pulsing them to give flicks of drive power, I ventured in. It was deeper than I thought, just touching the bottom of the hubdyno and completely submerging the motor unit, so I still got my feet very wet anyway as I forded across. As expected the motor unit didn't notice it, the sealing as perfect as the old model's always was, and measurement to the hubdyno lower edge later showed that the water had reached 12" / 30 cm deep.
.
 

JamesC

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 1, 2007
435
5
Peterborough, UK
Yes, an excellent review that I agree with completely. I am only at 3,500 miles with a similar aged bike, and have also found the ProConnect to be 100% reliable.

A good list of the strengths and weaknesses.

In particular, no trouble with batteries although I have been sharing the work between 2 batteries from new.

No desire to change.

James
 

GORDONAL

Esteemed Pedelecer
Dec 11, 2009
333
6
sunny Powys(Wales),Spain
Thanks

Many thanks for such a detailed and "fair" report - an excellent read
 

oriteroom

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 13, 2008
297
110
Hi Tilson

Great review. Mrs 'O' and I both have ProConnects of the same vintage. Mine's a daimond frame 24 spoker whilst hers is a 45cm step thru' which has 26" wheels and many more spokes. No problems (YET!) with the 24 spoker despite 4,500 miles. VERY interested in your drive train results tho'. I had religiously GT85-ed our chains, but now think I was being far too kind to them. Both chains gave up (badly stretched and ended up like stirring porridge) after 4,000 miles. Changed chain and sprockets on both (mine to a 19T rear which is great) and will use your technique of 'when I remember' with regard to lubrication. I've now switched to a 'dry wax' lube. Is that what the Bike Hut wax lube is?

Regards.
 

tillson

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 29, 2008
5,249
3,197
Hi Oriteroom

This is the chain wax which I use here I have used other dry wax lubricants such as White Lightning Clean Ride, but I like the Bikehut brand the best. It seems to stick to the metal surfaces better than the others, but at the same time it doesn't congeal into a gritty mess.

Running the chain very dry can make it noisy and in winter, the outside of the links will rust.

Writing about the chain yesterday prompted me to lubricate it with the Bikehut wax! This quietened the drive down, and in fact, I could only hear that soft whine you get from the motor.

The chain has undoubtedly stretched since new, but I'm happy to continue running it. I have a new set of sprockets and a new chain ready to fit whenever the time comes.

The subject of lubricating the chain has come up before and I don't think that there is a definitive answer.
 

Neil

Pedelecer
Mar 28, 2008
63
0
Just Change the chain

Why do people run bikes with worn out chains. New one cost peanuts and I expect mine to last about 3,000 miles. I have a chain ware measure and change when it says its worn out. £12 is nothing for 3,000 miles cycling.
 

tillson

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 29, 2008
5,249
3,197
Why do people run bikes with worn out chains. New one cost peanuts and I expect mine to last about 3,000 miles. I have a chain ware measure and change when it says its worn out. £12 is nothing for 3,000 miles cycling.
Hi Neil

This question is not intended to antagonise:

Facts

1) The chain on my bike performs as well today as the day I took delivery.

2) If I replace the chain, it would be advisable to change the sprockets too, because they are very worn, and a new chain on worn sprockets is not a good situation.

3) To change the sprockets and chain costs £49 (Rear sprocket £8, Front Chain Ring £14, Motor Sprocket £16 and Chain £11)

Question If everything is working to my entire satisfaction, why should I spend £49?
 
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tangent

Esteemed Pedelecer
Mar 7, 2010
299
0
I would be surprised if a new chain would work on your current sprockets.

Depending on the state of your chainwheel you might get away with a new hub sprocket and chain for a while. I just changed these once every 12-18 months for the first 18,000 miles on my Giant Lafree and it went OK. Surprisingly my motor sprocket was still reasonable after 18,000 miles, but I replaced it anyway.

As long as your chain is clean, lubed and flexible I do not see why you should lose anything in efficiency even if it has stretched. What I am not sure about though is whether a stretched chain would wear the front chain ring and motor sprocket faster and so cost more in the long run.

Great review by the way.

p.s. you can easily pick up the rear sprockets for less than £5. e.g. on ebay Sturmey Archer Sprocket 18T.1/8th inch. Dished. New on eBay (end time 04-Sep-10 10:24:01 BST)
 
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Neil

Pedelecer
Mar 28, 2008
63
0
no intention to upset

I change my chain more often. As the chain get older it stretches and it is this stretching that damages the cogs. I have done 11,500 miles on my pro connect and am on my 2nd front cog, and have fitted 2 drive cogs. I have fitted 4 new chains. A worn chain also just feels rough. Oh I have replaced the rear cog about 4 times, mostly to experiment with different number of teeth. The setup at the moment is a 12 tooth drive cog and a 15 back cog you get a silly top gear but as I live in Norfolk I have no need for the low gears. We have no hills that I can not go up easily with this set up. You get a 7mph low gear at a decent cadence.
 

PaulC

Pedelecer
Sep 12, 2007
41
0
Save $ = second hand scooter

Hi Tillson,
you commented: "I don’t think the bike should be viewed as a way to save money on transport costs. If that is your main aim, buy a second hand scooter."
Could you list the main reasons for concluding this, as I'm dealing with a niggling suspicion that small motorbikes are cheaper overall and easier to run than a pedelec bike
Thanks
Paul
 

c_elder

Pedelecer
Aug 6, 2007
49
0
Hi Tilson

I would like to add my appreciation of a very detailed and factual review. Everything you say about the bike also gels with my own experience.

The only thing I would dispute is your assertion that running a second hand scooter would be cheaper (having ran a new but cheap scooter). Whilst the daily petrol costs is indeed very low, the other costs: depreciation, insurance, maintenance, road tax etc... as well as breakdowns add significantly to the cost.
 

tillson

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 29, 2008
5,249
3,197
I don’t think the bike should be viewed as a way to save money on transport costs. If that is your main aim, buy a second hand scooter. If you like the cycling experience, live a bit too far away from work for a regular unassisted daily cycle ride and don’t mind paying a premium for the experience, then this bike makes perfect sense.
I aimed this comment at the person who currently uses a car for say, a 20 mile round trip commute to and from work, and is looking for a way to reduce the expense. Cost reduction being the main objective.

Both a scooter and an electric bike will save money by comparison to the car. Using an ebike may even save more money than using a scooter. However, I think that the savings that an ebike makes over and above that of a scooter are small by comparison to the original objective.

There then comes the motivation factor. We all know that every ride isn't a warm sun soaked excursion along a neatly manicured cycle path meandering through a meadow, the rider, feet off the pedals, wearing nothing but a homicidal grin. No, when winter arrives, and you roll out of the safe warmth of the duvet, at stupid o'clock, into the cold inky darkness and it's raining, there's going to be a strong headwind, this is reality. Each of these factors tend to move you, incrementally, towards a decision to take the car. In addition to all of this nature ushering you into your vehicle, there is the physical effort involved too. Despite the bike being electrically assisted, there is some effort involved in making the thing go and when it does, go, it goes slower than a scooter, so you are stuck out in all of the foulness for longer.

My point is that you have got to like cycling enough to resist the urge to take the car, not just want to save money. I believe the urge to take the car to work is much greater when the alternative is an ebike and less so when the alternative is a scooter. If someone who isn't really that keen on cycling buys an ebike, purely to save money, it will end up falling into disuse and finish up on ebay within a few months, certainly during or after the winter. They will then revert to the car and the whole foray into electric bikes will have been a waste of money and will leave the owner disappointed.

This is why I said what I did about not buying one if the only objective was to save money.
 
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tillson

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 29, 2008
5,249
3,197
Hi Tillson,
you commented: "I don’t think the bike should be viewed as a way to save money on transport costs. If that is your main aim, buy a second hand scooter."
Could you list the main reasons for concluding this, as I'm dealing with a niggling suspicion that small motorbikes are cheaper overall and easier to run than a pedelec bike
Thanks
Paul
I've not looked closely enough at the figures to work this one out PaulC. I know that a new Pro Connect costs between £1800 and £1900.

Without re-charging at either end of the journey, based on my experience of a very hilly commute, 10 mile each way, the battery is going to last about 2 years and cover 6500 miles. However, it will probably last a good while longer if charged at each end of the journey. The replacement battery is currently £395.

I would imagine that a reasonable second hand 50cc scooter costs about £850? (Is that fair, to compare a second hand scooter to a new ebike?)

Throwing everything into the melting pot, depreciation of the ebike and scooter, petrol, insurance, road tax, MoT, servicing, new ebike battery, I don't know which would come out the cheapest to run over say 2 years / 7500 miles. There might not be a lot in it. But if saving money over using a car was my only objective, I would most likely opt for the scooter.

It always comes back to the battery, or the price of it. It pushes the running costs into scooter territory and that is a great shame.
 

tillson

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 29, 2008
5,249
3,197
I change my chain more often. As the chain get older it stretches and it is this stretching that damages the cogs. I have done 11,500 miles on my pro connect and am on my 2nd front cog, and have fitted 2 drive cogs. I have fitted 4 new chains. A worn chain also just feels rough. Oh I have replaced the rear cog about 4 times, mostly to experiment with different number of teeth. The setup at the moment is a 12 tooth drive cog and a 15 back cog you get a silly top gear but as I live in Norfolk I have no need for the low gears. We have no hills that I can not go up easily with this set up. You get a 7mph low gear at a decent cadence.
Hi Neil

That's impressive mileage! What sort of assist speeds do you get with the 12 - 15 cog configuration? What has it done for the range of the bike?
 

tangent

Esteemed Pedelecer
Mar 7, 2010
299
0
I have a 12T/18T configuration on my 7 speed hub. I think assistance vanishes at about 25mph but it is very difficult to tell. As you know the Panasonic system is very smooth. Most of the time I cruise in gears 5 and 6 between 18 and 20mph, occasionally going up to about 22mph. I use gear 7 down hill or if there is a tail wind. For me this 12T/18T combination is about right. I ride between the City and SW London and although not Norfolk, I don't think the hills get much above 7%.
Coming home tonight I was dropping down to 4 and to 13mph due to the winds.

Range must be affected but I cannot tell as I rarely do more that 15 miles per day and always have 3 lights left on the battery.
 
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tillson

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 29, 2008
5,249
3,197
Tilsons own illegal electric bike review.
Thanks for bumping this back up again, it's rather well written, don't you agree?

Anyway, I'm sorry to pi$$ on your strawberrys fishingpaul, especially after all your diligent research. As you will see from the date of the review, it was written years ago. I bought the bike as a tool to commute to work and I didn't realise the implications of changing the rear sprocket. After I became aware a 23 tooth sprocket was fitted and this has been the case for many years since. But yes, I did ride the bike for a time with an assist speed above 15 MPH.

Sorry, I didn't mean to spoil your evening.