Bafang BBS01 error 7

kjetilhk

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 25, 2014
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In recent weeks, my BBS01 has displayed "error 7" when I start the engine in the morning. After a few seconds, the message disappears and the bike works normally. It also happened that I had to ride a few hundred meters before the engine started.

Is this a battery or an engine problem?
Could this be related to the subzero temperatures?
 

trex

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 15, 2011
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Error codes:

04 Throttle no homing
05 Throttle abnormality
06 Low voltage protection
07 Over voltage protection
08 Hall sensor abnormality
09 Phase line abnormality
10 Controller overheat
11 Temperature sensor in controller abnormality
12 Current sensor abnormality
21 Speed sensor abnormality
22 Communication abnormality in BMS

07: the LCD says that voltage of your battery is too high. You may have programmed the LCD with the wrong voltage?
 
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kjetilhk

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I have ridden over 1000km without any problems, so why would the battery suddenly have higher voltage? And it is only when I start the engine. Would it be safe to program the controller to accept higher voltage? The voltage peek is only for a few seconds anyway
 

trex

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test the voltage with a multitester when you get error 7. At least you can discount some of the possibilities.
 
D

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After you've charged it, you should measure the voltage just to be sure that your charger isn't faulty and over-charging. It shouldn't be higher than 42v. Assuming that you're below that, the HVC must be wrongly programmed in your controller, which is nothing to worry about if it is.
 

kjetilhk

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I measured the voltage before charge to 37,5 (after riding 80 minutes).

I measured the output voltage on the charger to 41,5. After charge I measured the voltage on the battery to 41,5.

When I connected the battery, and started the engine, the display showed "error 7" for about 2 seconds. And then everything worked as usual.

How can I program the hvc? I can't find it in the programming interface.
 

trex

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May 15, 2011
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there is no option to set HVC.


The following can be changed:

Basic
Basic is relatively self-explanatory. The Low Voltage protect and limit current (A) should not be changed. The PAS levels Limit Current (%) and Limit Speed (%) changes the amount of power and speed available in each PAS level. Wheel diameter should be set to match your bike and the speed meter is external mode 1.

Pedal Assist

Note: Change conservatively. Make small incremental changes and test rather than large ones.
Slow Start Mode(1-8) – Controls how fast the power ramps up when you start pedalling 8 is fastest 1 the slowest.
Startup Degree(Signal No)- Controls the amount of pedal rotation before power kicks in lower is less rotation.
Work Mode(Angular Speed of pedal/wheel*10) - Adjusts the amount of power that can be applied to each pedal rotation. The higher the number the greater the power applied to each rotation. Change conservatively.
Current Decay – Measures how long the unit holds power level when pedal effort is decreased.
Stop Decay – The amount of time the system takes to cut after pedalling stops. Lower is faster.
Keep Current – Specifies the total amount of power available in PAS mode. Best to leave below 100 and use throttle as 100% ‘boost’.

Throttle settings:

Start Voltage – The level ofvoltage available when throttle is first applied. Best to leave between 10 and 15.
End Voltage – Leave as 35.
Mode – Leave as current.
Designated assist – The assist level current and limits that the throttle use. Default is 9 for 9 levels of PAS.
Speed Limited – Set your speed limit of throttle use.
Start Current % - Percentage current of available when throttle initially applied. Leave 10 or below.
 

Fordulike

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Feb 26, 2010
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With such a vast scope to fine tune the PAS settings, I wonder why Bafang haven't managed to dial out the motor over run issue when changing gears.
 

mfj197

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Jul 18, 2014
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Motor overrun? What do you mean exactly? The motor doesn't actually know when you are changing gear so can't cut power unless you tell it to. Do you mean continuing on when you stop pedalling, in which case it is adjusted by "Stop Decay" as trex says above. Mine does stop almost immediately when I stop pedalling.

Michael
 

trex

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May 15, 2011
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the minimum stopping time is two magnet poles on the pedelec sensor for all e-bikes. For a 12 pole magnet disc, that is one sixth of 360 degrees or 60 degrees. For a typical 26" bike with BBS01/02 on 11T cog at the rear, travelling at 15.5mph, the bike will continue a further 4.6 metres on motor before the controller will cut its power.
That shows you why it's prudent to have 12-pole disc and brake sensors.
 

Fordulike

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Feb 26, 2010
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Motor overrun? What do you mean exactly? The motor doesn't actually know when you are changing gear so can't cut power unless you tell it to. Do you mean continuing on when you stop pedalling, in which case it is adjusted by "Stop Decay" as trex says above. Mine does stop almost immediately when I stop pedalling.

Michael
I was under the impression that owners were having problems with clunky gear changes, because the PAS took so long to cut power.

Correct me if I'm wrong, the real issue is that owners want to continue to pedal while changing gear, so that's why they use the dab of the brake or throttle method?

So a workable solution is to stop pedaling, change gear, start pedaling and the controller ramp up should feed the power back in nicely?
 
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trex

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if you want to continue pedalling while changing gear, dab one of the brake levers just before changing gear.
 

Croxden

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Jan 26, 2013
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if you want to continue pedalling while changing gear, dab one of the brake levers just before changing gear.
So Heath Robinson to us Bosch users.
 

kjetilhk

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I don't have any problems changing gears while pedaling. Keep the cadence over 60 while shifting, and make sure your chain is not worn out. You can also get chains built for e-bikes.
 

mfj197

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 18, 2014
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Guildford
I was under the impression that owners were having problems with clunky gear changes, because the PAS took so long to cut power.

Correct me if I'm wrong, the real issue is that owners want to continue to pedal while changing gear, so that's why they use the dab of the brake or throttle method?

So a workable solution is to stop pedaling, change gear, start pedaling and the controller ramp up should feed the power back in nicely?
Mostly right - yes there can be clunky gear changes but not because the PAS takes so long to cut power, it's because it doesn't know it needs to cut power in the first place.

I personally don't like the stopping pedalling approach to change gear as a) it is unnatural and gets in the way (I'm just coming to ebiking from commuting on a normal bike) and b) because the chain still needs to be moving to change gear with a derailleur, albeit with not much force.

Regarding Bosch, ah, we can but hope we DIY people get a decent torque sensor crank drive!

Michael
 

kjetilhk

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May 25, 2014
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As I was afraid, the problem has gotten worse. I must now ride up to 4 min before the engine is behaving normally. It is on and off with err 7. I have also gotten err 30.

To me it seems that the engine works fine when it gets hot. I have measured the Volt on the battery and can not find anything wrong there. Therefore, I suspect now that there is something wrong with the volt meter in the engine.

Is this likely?

I suppose this sits on the controller? So it is the controller that needs to be replaced? Is there any alternative controllers that can be used?
 

trex

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May 15, 2011
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Error 30 is communication error, your LCD or the main cable connecting the LCD to the controller has a short somewhere.
I don't know errors 61,69 and HI. I suggest to contact your supplier and ask them to test the LCD for you.