brakes

[billyboya]

The bits circled in blue are the adaptors.

The bits not circled in blue are the calipers.

The calipers are bolted to the adaptors.

The adaptors are bolted to the frame.

You will notice that the front and rear adaptors are different, this is because the mounting points on the frame are different for front and rear.

Bloody hell LOL time to get to my optician for new glasses. I never even noticed that. yes can see the difference now. But I was convinced both was same LOL. thats the whiskey dumped lol

 

[Nealh]

The calipers are identical , they are held on to the adapters by two bolts.

 

[billyboya]

What's the name of these brake pads, are they just called Resin Hydraulic disc pads

I will need to order a few spares as will be needed when worn down

are these the correct ones. also is that hole on pads for a pin as it dont show a pin

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007295150847.html?

 

[Nealh]

One just looks for resin brake pads, sometimes they are called Organic pads.
The correct designation for the pad type is AO1S.

Don't buy the sintered or metal pads as they are a harder compound and not suitable for most generic rotors/discs, they may make the brakes squeal like a pig or even be ineffective in braking.

 

[billyboya]

One just looks for resin brake pads.

But they have to be same make

are these the ones

https://www.amazon.co.uk/High-Performance-Semi-Metallic-Mountain-Compatible-Shimano/dp/B0FLX2MDFX/ref=sr_1_5_sspa?crid=2567Z76LVMMMA&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.g95hRi9-BO3w868_rtbvP8-

 

[Nealh]

The brake pad shape is AO1S designation, they are shimano pads so any you find are simply copies of them. Many differing brands copy them and also many brands make calipers to suit the brake pad.

 

[Nealh]

But they have to be same make

are these the ones

https://www.amazon.co.uk/High-Performance-Semi-Metallic-Mountain-Compatible-Shimano/dp/B0FLX2MDFX/ref=sr_1_5_sspa?crid=2567Z76LVMMMA&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.g95hRi9-BO3w868_rtbvP8-

Yes.
Personally I would wait until the calipers arrive and confirm the listing is correct.
The calipers will arrive with a set of pads fitted so you will be ok for about a year so no rush to buy the pads.
That said I don't know your braking method or terrain you ride, I once went wore thru a set of resin pads in about 2 miles on the South Downs after it had rained. The chalk and mud turns in to a grinding paste and gets every where , pads in those conditions don't last very long up there.

 

[billyboya]

Yes.
Personally I would wait until the calipers arrive and confirm the listing is correct.

ok will wait until calipers arrive

 

[Nealh]

It would be silly to buy pads and find the listing is wrong and they have changed the design, wouldn't be the first or last time a China listing isn't right.

 

[billyboya]

It would be silly to buy pads and find the listing is wrong and they have changed the design, wouldn't be the first or last time a China listing isn't right.

Well these was on Amazon unless they from china, but it said delivery tomorrow

4pcs Bike Brake Pads, High-Performance Semi-Metallic Disc Brake Pads Replacement for Mountain Bikes & E-Bikes Compatible with Shimano Deore XT SLX Hone Alfine Saint Accessories : Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors

4pcs Bike Brake Pads, High-Performance Semi-Metallic Disc Brake Pads Replacement for Mountain Bikes & E-Bikes Compatible with Shimano Deore XT SLX Hone Alfine Saint Accessories : Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.co.uk

 

[Nealh]

They all come from China .
Amazon don't make them, they are just a shop.

 

[billyboya]

They all come from China .
Amazon don't make them, they are just a shop.

Oh I'm with you now , thanks for the heads up

 

[AndyBike]

The only slight problem I had was I had to fit washers between the frame and the adaptor to push the whole thing a couple of mm inboard to get the caliper aligned to the disk. This was only on the rear one.

I started off with 4mm washers but finally settled on 2mm.

If you want to do a bit of fettling, Hope Tech do shimming washers- you can get 0.25mm,0.50mm,0.80mm and 1.6mm. They cost a couple of quid for a pack of ten.

Over the years I've found them an invaluable addition to the toolbox.
eg

Hope Shim Washer M6 x 0.25mm (10 Off) | Biketart

Brake Spare

www.biketart.com

If you are stuck cutting twisted cable and dont have a specific twisted cable cutter, you can bodge through using some electrical tape, a pair of standard run of the mil pliers, and a hammer.
Wrap the area on the cable you want to cut with the electrical tape, and dont skimp you'll need to wrap it around multiple times(A dozen anyway) and very tightly too.

Place the wrapped bit of cable in the cutting bit of the pliers and hit the handle hard with the hammer for a sharp sudden cut.
The very tightly wound electrical tape prevents the multiple strands from unraveling so you end up with a sharp clean cut.
You can get the electrical tape off same way you remove a ferrule, just pull it off using a thumbnail

It doesnt matter if the cutting part of your pliers is as blunt as blunt, it will leave a clean cut edge.

 

[scription]

this little hack can get you out of a bind

 

[billyboya]

My New Hydraulic calipers will be arriving today. I heard to centralise the pads, you squeeze the brake lever then just tighten the caliper bolts. is this correct, but cant you just do same by holding up the piston lever then tighten bolts. surely that's the same thing

 

[AndyBike]

Centralize your caliper properly. These tricks do not work.

Pads will need bedding in, so here's some info might help. Any I take it you know you dont touch the rotor or pads with your fingers if you can help it, or if you need to a quick spray with a disc cleaner sorts out any issues there.

https://www.hopetech.com/_repository/1/documents/page-25-centralising.pdf

 

[billyboya]

Centralize your caliper properly. These tricks do not work.

Pads will need bedding in, so here's some info might help. Any I take it you know you dont touch the rotor or pads with your fingers if you can help it, or if you need to a quick spray with a disc cleaner sorts out any issues there.

https://www.hopetech.com/_repository/1/documents/page-25-centralising.pdf

Ok will study those videos. But I'm afraid I don't have any isopropyl. only got Turps which I wont use that unless its ok

 

[saneagle]

My New Hydraulic calipers will be arriving today. I heard to centralise the pads, you squeeze the brake lever then just tighten the caliper bolts. is this correct, but cant you just do same by holding up the piston lever then tighten bolts. surely that's the same thing

That's the quickest an easiest way to do it. It works very well. No need to make it more complicated; however, it only works if the brake adapter and wheel spacing are right, which yours must be because it was working before. To make sure all that is right, you put the two screws in through the caliper and leave them a bit loose, then spin the wheel. If it spins freely, you're good to go with the procedure you suggested, but if the brake is rubbing, you have to find out why. While the caliper is loose, it's a good idea to work it a few times to make sure the pistons are centralised.

I wouldn't use either of those methods shown in the videos above because they leave the possibility that you screwd down the caliper at an angle to the disc.

 

[billyboya]

That's the quickest an easiest way to do it. It works very well. No need to make it more complicated; however, it only works if the brake adapter and wheel spacing are right, which yours must be because it was working before. To make sure all that is right, you put the two screws in through the caliper and leave them a bit loose, then spin the wheel. If it spins freely, you're good to go with the procedure you suggested, but if the brake is rubbing, you have to find out why. While the caliper is loose, it's a good idea to work it a few times to make sure the pistons are centralised.

I wouldn't use either of those methods shown in the videos above because they leave the possibility that you screwd down the caliper at an angle to the disc.

Thanks saneagle the new brakes have just arrived so will start doing them now

 

[billyboya]

Well thats the easiest piece of work Ive done so easy to fit the new brakes. I did find when doing the front brake there was a grinding noise as I spun the wheel . then realised the old set had a washer behind screw where it bolts into the hole. so added 2 washers and all fine now.

But I have noticed looking down at the new ones the pads are a bit exposed to the weather compared to old types.

I'm wondering if a piece of water proof strong tape would cover them but would have to keep replacing it once pads need changing or won't that be no good







old type pads below