That's a good site, if I read it right then I should be on a high carb diet. I can live with that.Hi poppy: Try this link CYCLING PERFORMANCE TIPS - foot syndromes
That's a good site, if I read it right then I should be on a high carb diet. I can live with that.Hi poppy: Try this link CYCLING PERFORMANCE TIPS - foot syndromes
Nope, the motor will see the same cadence whatever the size of the chainwheel/ring. If you have access to a bike fitted with a triple chainset, stick a small piece of sellotape on one of the teeth on the outer largest chainring and likewise in the same exact position way down on the tiny inner chainring. Now rotate the cranks backwards and watch both pieces of sellotape - both arrive 360 degrees later at the same exact location at the exact same time - it's impossible for them not too.Just curious, but if we could alter the size of the front chain wheel, wouldnt that have an effect on the cadence that the motor wheel sees?
John
Just curious, but if we could alter the size of the front chain wheel, wouldnt that have an effect on the cadence that the motor wheel sees?
John
Sorry Danny, that's normally correct, but not on the Panasonic unit in question. That unit measures the rotation of the motor chain drive sprocket and therefore the chain speed to determine the chainwheel cadence. A smaller chainwheel would mean a higher cadence for a given chain speed.Nope, the motor will see the same cadence whatever the size of the chainwheel/ring.
Yes, that's as I understand it. So increasing or reducing your cadence whatever the chainwheel fitted is what governs the motor's performance - yes?...Except of course the signal from the pedelec sensor on the crank axle... The speed of the crank axle in relation to the road speed (cadence) is entirely governed by the diameter of the chainwheel.
...Heh! your certainly getting your monies worth out of that Salisbury.
I accidentally misled you John, typing reducing the rear sprocket when it should have been increasing. The enlarged motor sprocket would need an enlarged rear sprocket to retain the same motor drive road speed relationship. The enlarged rear sprocket would increase the cadence in relation to road speed as well of course.hmmm, so increase the size of the motor sprocket to 11 teeth, and drop the rear to say 16 teeth. That would increase the cadence at which most assistance would be provided, and I assume that the ratio of 9:11 vs 23:16 (or 18:16) needs to be very similarly compensating....
I suppose that this would take a while to get used to, and would adversely effect battery range too, but it would be an interesting experiment...
John
This is sometimes due to a loss of efficient electrical contact at the junction of battery and bike, but another common cause is cell tiring. Lithium cells can suffer chemical exhaustion when in sustained high discharge conditions, simply unable to keep up sufficient current delivery, The moment the load is reduced or removed, the cell recovers, signalled by the meter lights returning.Frightened the life out of me. I assume it was having a 'software moment'. New batteries/chargers and motors flashed through my mind for a couple of moments - somebody tell me they do that sometimes.
Thanks for the info Flecc. I've noticed the occasional rattle from the battery in it's bike housing compartment; intend trimming the edge with some kind of rubber tubing to tighter fit the battery, (car door rubbers etc.,) maybe if bumpy enough ride, it can lose full contact with the connections. Then again I was enjoying myself so much tonight at traffic light crossings I was whacking the throttle wide open to get a sharp take-off in between light changes ahead of the traffic, so possibly cell exhaustion too.This is sometimes due to a loss of efficient electrical contact at the junction of battery and bike, but another common cause is cell tiring. Lithium cells can suffer chemical exhaustion when in sustained high discharge conditions, simply unable to keep up sufficient current delivery, The moment the load is reduced or removed, the cell recovers, signalled by the meter lights returning.
.
FleccSorry Danny, that's normally correct, but not on the Panasonic unit in question. That unit measures the rotation of the motor chain drive sprocket and therefore the chain speed to determine the chainwheel cadence. A smaller chainwheel would mean a higher cadence for a given chain speed.
Academic though, since the chainpath and relationship with the small 9 tooth motor sprocket makes the chainwheel size critical, and it's a very non-standard chainwheel anyway.
There is another way to increase the cadence on these units, using a larger motor chain drive sprocket and correspondingly increasing the rear hub sprocket. Using an 11 tooth motor sprocket would increase the maximum power roll off point cadence from 40 to 49 for example.
.
Yes of course James. I was only stressing the need to correctly change the rear sprocket to retain all former relationships except the chainwheel cadence increase.Flecc
I am grappling with why the change from a 9 to 11 tooth motor sprocket needs to be accompanied by an increase in the rear hub sprocket.
Don't you get the same effect by selecting one gear lower, and allowing the new motor assist speed to lift the rider's input to the higher cadence, which restores the original road speed.
James
Sounds like the Salisbury had a little "hissy fit". Like the man said, "Lithium batteries are very obedient, they will quite happily bring about their own destruction in trying to please their masters".
Hope your not working tomorrow, there's a weather slot in the afternoon in the West, I'm taking the newly aquired Mistral out for a spin.
By the way, I was spotted riding home the other day with straw sticking out of my tyres like an electrified Wurzel Gummidge, My street cred's gone right down the tubes, and it's all your fault!!!
All the best
Bob