Oh looks like you can't use the programming cable on the new Canbus bafang BBS motors ! Rethink time
Change off mind from yose power to mid drive
- Thread starter Michael 2025
- Start date
Not as cheap as PSWPower, but Greenbikekit told me last week they still have UART 250W BBS01B kits and controllers in stock. However, I'm not convinced the sales staff at Greenbikekit know much - they were suprised that I was able to increase current limit on my controller to 20A, bought from them three years ago. The sales dude didn't know if current limit on their kit or spare controllers is locked, said it was physically the same controller version I'd bought, shipped however Bafang has set them in firmware. Best interrogate them yourself if buying from Greenbikekit.
Sadly, the easy to program and highly customisable BBSXX(X) UART party is coming to a close. Greenbikekit said Bafang is ceasing production, only CAN bus in future. Fortunately, I have a spare controller. I'm holding out scant hope some other company starts making alternative UART controllers for my motor. If not, I'm damn well going to learn how to dig out silicone potting and repair or replace (KT/Phaserunner/other?) mine, when both of my controllers die. Other parts seem plentiful.
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OK - just in case anyone else is interested - there does seem some UART BBS01s 02s and 03s around from certain suppliers.
Also, with Can Bus, if you buy the correct display that supports the right version of bluetooth, you can adjust wheel size , speed limit and PAS level % power and PAS Level speed limit (e.g. DPC010) through the Bafang Go + app
BBS01b : the naming of the motors seems a bit hit and miss, some are genuinely lighter motors but some look identical to the BBS02 , with identical weights and look like restricted BBS02s
Currently also considering the 48V TSDZ2 which seems quite light for a mid drive motor. I originally thought I wanted a 48t chainring, the same as the larger existing chainring on the bike, but there is an option from some suppliers to choose a 44t chainring with the TSDZ2. When I actually work out the cadence for a 700C bike with 44/11 gearing that gives a cadence of 75 for 25 mph (downhill obvs) and I won't be pedalling any faster than that. It also gives the advantage of 44/34 (biggest cog on cassette) at cadence of 65 gives 7 mph so that is actually probably better on steep hills
Also, with Can Bus, if you buy the correct display that supports the right version of bluetooth, you can adjust wheel size , speed limit and PAS level % power and PAS Level speed limit (e.g. DPC010) through the Bafang Go + app
BBS01b : the naming of the motors seems a bit hit and miss, some are genuinely lighter motors but some look identical to the BBS02 , with identical weights and look like restricted BBS02s
Currently also considering the 48V TSDZ2 which seems quite light for a mid drive motor. I originally thought I wanted a 48t chainring, the same as the larger existing chainring on the bike, but there is an option from some suppliers to choose a 44t chainring with the TSDZ2. When I actually work out the cadence for a 700C bike with 44/11 gearing that gives a cadence of 75 for 25 mph (downhill obvs) and I won't be pedalling any faster than that. It also gives the advantage of 44/34 (biggest cog on cassette) at cadence of 65 gives 7 mph so that is actually probably better on steep hills
Interesting, saves somewhat splurging on the Besst Tool hardware to adjust basic settings, but even if you are an ebike integrator/manufacturer, or obtain a Besst Pro account some other way (anyone know how?), customisation of their crappy Can bus shite doesn't look sufficiently interesting, or as useful as the UART versions. Depressing.
https://bafang-e.com/fileadmin/user_upload/BESST_Pro_Upper_Computer_Software_Operation_Manual__V1.0_EN_.pdf
It's time to buy at least one spare fully programmable UART controller for your BBSXX(X) motor, if you don't have one I reckon. Bigly grab em by the capacitors before they're all gorn for good...
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Yes - I won't buy a Can Bus one, but someone mentioned logging into the settings (I think on the display ?) with the default Bafang 1919 pin code
If you find deal on a bbs01b 250w controller let me know, I'll nab a spare for my 2 bikes with these motors. I dunno if this new can bus can be changed for settings like keep current etc, I'm not so interested in increasing max speed but the power was woeful out of the box until i tweaked keep current settings on my motors
With canbus & Bafang Go + (if you have the right display!) you can change wheel size, pas power levels and pas speed limits.
I don't know if the silly keep current setting is still shipped like that, it seems bonkers. Plenty of UART kits still being sold
Out of the box, it's almost as if they're intended to emulate faulty motors. Freaking unridable. I almost sent mine back and demanded a refund with maximum wrath (my brain's default setting). Programming cable to the rescue.
You should buy at least two? They're about. Trouble is as usual, salespeople don't know what they're selling. Surely UART controllers can't disappear overnight, they'll make spares for awhile I expect for the millions all over the world who own BBS01Bs - even if current limit can't be increased from 15A on the 36V version, I'd call it a win if "Keep current" can be adjusted on controllers they continue to produce. 36V 15A is enough for everything including hilly heavy hauling, just won't be at 25kph lol. We'll see far fewer 3120W BBSHD controllers customised in future, CAN bus says no can do.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/396469638762
Bafang BBSHD BBS02B 60a modded controller SERVICE
"Watts and amps are read x2. For example 10 amps = 20 amps, 25 amps = 50 amps. 500 watts = 1000 watts, and so on."
We have been betrayed! Hopefully nobody will buy these CAN bus abominations. I'm going to write Bafang an angry dot matrix printed letter pointing out they're destroying what makes these motors so popular and useful.
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There must be tens of thousands of people riding round with that default keep current setting
Model: C571-30-511, AliExpress Sale, loads about. Best ask sellers extensive questions, but I think this is a slightly lower than usual price. Plus VAT, free shipping.
Whether anything will be shipped after you've paid is unknown - I'm still waiting for my "3 day UK delivery" AliExpress Sale truing stand.
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005006831121243.html
Also C571-30-511, £88.99 no VAT, from who knows where. I've never been asked to pay customs etc. charges for Amazon orders sent from China or anywhere else.
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I've got my eye on this, about £50 delivered with discount code
UKEXC07
Have yet to confirm if deffo UART
I just found this on AliExpress:
￡57.79 | Bafang Mid Motor BBS G340 36V350W 36V250W Controller BBS01 BBS02 Motor Controller
Bafang Mid Motor BBS G340 36V350W 36V250W Controller BBS01 BBS02 Motor Controller - AliExpress 18
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
a.aliexpress.com
There's no model number on that listing. I think there are loads of old version BBS01 controllers kicking about, the much complained about flaky short lived ones - I don't know what those look like, wouldn't want to end up with one. Model number of my spare is C571-30-511, same as the controller on my bike (before erasure by road particulate erosion). Bafang baked-in firmware limitation could be different despite model number being the same? None of the sellers I've asked know if theirs is "Current limit" locked.I've got my eye on this, about £50 delivered with discount code
UKEXC07
Have yet to confirm if deffo UART
I just found this on AliExpress:
￡57.79 | Bafang Mid Motor BBS G340 36V350W 36V250W Controller BBS01 BBS02 Motor Controller
Bafang Mid Motor BBS G340 36V350W 36V250W Controller BBS01 BBS02 Motor Controller - AliExpress 18
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
Same model number, question the seller before buying.
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005006831121243.html
My controller's potting doesn't have a hole, what's that for? Sandwiches? Silicone cost saving to buy more sandwiches at Bafang HQ?
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I think the old version, bbs01 without the b suffix was the one that was unreliable. The newer bbs01b versions comes without and with a front light and gear sensor cables, I have one of each, both super reliable and of course uart and fully configurable for keep current and support up to 20aThere's no model number on that listing. I think there are loads of old version BBS01 controllers kicking about, the much complained about flaky short lived ones - I don't know what those look like, wouldn't want to end up with one. Model number of my spare is C571-30-511, same as the controller on my bike (before erasure by road particulate erosion). Bafang baked-in firmware limitation could be different despite model number being the same? None of the sellers I've asked know if theirs is "Current limit" locked.
View attachment 63252
Same model number, question the seller before buying.
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005006831121243.html
My controller's potting doesn't have a hole, what's that for? Sandwiches? Silicone cost saving to buy more sandwiches at Bafang HQ?
View attachment 63256
Why don't you try running with an external controller? That motor has a conventional pedal sensor in it, so it should be very straight-forward. Get an old non-working BBS01 controller, gut it and just use it to house the connections. There's a thread on here, where a guy did it successfully using a standard cheap squarewave controller that made the motor run not as smooth as the Bafang one, but he probably could have got the smoothness with a sine wave one.
Note what he said in post #4, which is very much my experience.
endless-sphere.com
Note what he said in post #4, which is very much my experience.
Bafang BBS02 with external controller
Hello all, in my quest to develop a more efficient bike, I have dug out my BBS02 mid drive and fitted it to my daily commuter. Now, the controller is dead - I know that - so I've hooked it up to my external controller that came with my 48v 1000w hub motor kit. The hall connectors have been...
endless-sphere.com
The beauty of a mid drive is that the controller is contained within the motor, why would anyone feel the need to faff about and try and cobble together with an external controller, especially if you don't need too? When there's suitable replacement controllers available at 50-60 quid in the event of failure to bolt straight on seems daft to think otherwise .If no other option l'll swap it out for a TSDZ2 motorWhy don't you try running with an external controller? That motor has a conventional pedal sensor in it, so it should be very straight-forward. Get an old non-working BBS01 controller, gut it and just use it to house the connections. There's a thread on here, where a guy did it successfully using a standard cheap squarewave controller that made the motor run not as smooth as the Bafang one, but he probably could have got the smoothness with a sine wave one.
Note what he said in post #4, which is very much my experience.
Bafang BBS02 with external controller
Hello all, in my quest to develop a more efficient bike, I have dug out my BBS02 mid drive and fitted it to my daily commuter. Now, the controller is dead - I know that - so I've hooked it up to my external controller that came with my 48v 1000w hub motor kit. The hall connectors have been...
Why don't you try running with an external controller? That motor has a conventional pedal sensor in it, so it should be very straight-forward. Get an old non-working BBS01 controller, gut it and just use it to house the connections. There's a thread on here, where a guy did it successfully using a standard cheap squarewave controller that made the motor run not as smooth as the Bafang one, but he probably could have got the smoothness with a sine wave one.
Note what he said in post #4, which is very much my experience.
Bafang BBS02 with external controller
Hello all, in my quest to develop a more efficient bike, I have dug out my BBS02 mid drive and fitted it to my daily commuter. Now, the controller is dead - I know that - so I've hooked it up to my external controller that came with my 48v 1000w hub motor kit. The hall connectors have been...
I'm a long way from that - I've two controllers to kill and suitable UART controllers to fail sourcing... but if necessary I'd try a 15A KT controller, despite all those mysterious WTF PLC settings. I have at least three places on my bike in mind for a 15A KT controller if not too large, 15A would do for my 20" wheels.
I wouldn't touch those with a bargepole! Too many owner anxieties reported on this forum including screw and shaft anxieties, rising damp, all sorts.
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Because the BBS** controllers are prone to failure and they come with daft settings that are locked by the CANbus comms. Also, the standard controller is attached to the side of the motor in just about the worst position in terms of weathering and damage if any water gets in. Remember the guy, who's bike spontaneously caught fire because his controller leaked? The water shorted a MOSFET, which let the full battery current into one of the motor coils and melted his battery wires. Luckily, he was nearby and heard it crackling, so was aple to rip off the battery before it went off.
Talking about faffing about: You'd really rather rip out the motor and all it's accessories and do a complete reinstallation with A TSDZ motor than run a single cable from a Hailong controller to the motor? I know out of the two what sounds the most daft.
Anyway, it's daft to have such a motor in the first place, when a hub-motor is so much better. Both Guerney and Soundwave have crank-motors - say no more! QED
We don't want those. Bafang are going to sell far fewer CAN bus versions of these previosuly very popular motors. Easy and cheap customisability is what made them popular. They've shot themselves in the foot with this stupid transition and I've told them so in angry dot matrix lettering, for all the good that does.
My motor has survived 13 seconds of complete submersion, and many hours of heavy sustained rain, both ridden and standing in the garden while I gardened. I reckon my applying a thin layer of silicone sealant either side of the rubber gasket between the motor and controller before bolting tightly together helped waterproof.
I wouldn't worry too much. That guy was a bit unlucky. His controller hadn't been potted properly, so it was a combination of both issues that caused the fire. Normally, the potting should seal the MOSFETs as well as the gasket.
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