Is it only me ? or does any one else have difficulty in removing the connector after charging. By golly do I struggle. I will have to make a tool up methinks.
Richard
Richard
Charging connector on Ezee batteries
- Thread starter richard
- Start date
Yes, those XLR connectors are tight Richard. They were designed like that for their original use as balanced inline connections for microphones and the like and trailed across studio floors etc. Therefore they had to be tough and unlikely to be disconnected by a knock.
Unfortunately they are very useful in other applications where such tightness is a nuisance. In the Orient and sometimes in the USA, the slightly smaller NTC connectors are often used, still designed for the same original purpose but not quite so tight fitting. Powacycle batteries use those.
.
Unfortunately they are very useful in other applications where such tightness is a nuisance. In the Orient and sometimes in the USA, the slightly smaller NTC connectors are often used, still designed for the same original purpose but not quite so tight fitting. Powacycle batteries use those.
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removing connector after charging eZee batteries/
A good connection is a bonus.
BUT! The difficulty is overcome by placing the longest finger against the face of the battery and pushing whilst, at the same time pulling with the forefinger (is it?) and thumb.
Thus, you will have two forces operating against the reluctance of the plug-in to come free.
I only discovered this recently after levering the plug-in from side-to-side to free it.
Simple really!
Peter
PS ah! what genius lurks in this Forum. Some mute inglorious Newton.
Yes I do!.
A good connection is a bonus.
BUT! The difficulty is overcome by placing the longest finger against the face of the battery and pushing whilst, at the same time pulling with the forefinger (is it?) and thumb.
Thus, you will have two forces operating against the reluctance of the plug-in to come free.
I only discovered this recently after levering the plug-in from side-to-side to free it.
Simple really!
Peter
PS ah! what genius lurks in this Forum. Some mute inglorious Newton.
By the way Richard, there was a warning put out some while ago by 50 cycles about these connectors. Because of the tightness and wiggling in getting them out, there were a couple of cases of the small crosshead screw you see in the plug body coming loose, dropping out and causing a connection to body short as the plug fell apart while unplugging, this blowing the battery's internal fuse.
Therefore the small screw should be checked for tightness from time to time.
.
Therefore the small screw should be checked for tightness from time to time.
.
I am am always worried about wiggleing plugs too much, Thanks for the technical explanation and caution Flecc and for the technique Pete, but with my arthritically challenged fingers I will attempt to come up with a simple wooden extractor as it really bugs me.
Richard
Richard
My bike has XLR connections and I find them very easy but they have a metal locking pin with a release button to release them, so maybe my version is made easy because it has a locking clip, I had to change them recently because they fell appart. I don't know if I accidentaly reversed the male/female but I don't think so, maybe the plugs ar just different, but I have to be EXTREMELY careful when plugging them in because all around the plug is metal, and a slight misalignment equals a 200 amp short (it's OBVIOUS these are for ultra low tension microphone signals, who got the crazy idea of using this on 200 amp batteries!?!), it happened just a few days ago, it literally sounds like a rocket taking off as the metal vaporizes into a gas from the intense heat (I was lucky the battery was nearly completely dead, I'd hate to imagone qhat a short looks like on these batteries when full, I saw 2 or 3 shorts on these batteries and each time the battery was almost completely empty, it's still an extremely violent short, far more terrifying than a 120 volt 15 A [I'm in Canada] short). Luckily the plug amazingly still works.
I had also recently drilled a hole in my battery pack to add an emergency shut down switch, I got this idea because I had added cables going directly to the battery (not even through the ignition key switch) for a better battery level indicator (my bike has those pointless green/yellow/red digital meters you can't even see unless it's at night, even when you see it it's completely pointless other than a last minute warning that the battery is dead).
Well one day when leaving with my groceries I was unlocking the bike when suddenly clouds of dense smoke started pouring out of it like crazy, people must have thought there was a huge fire. There's was NOTHING I could do, the battery was physically jammed onto the bike, the wires bypassed all switches, and I just had to wait for the short to melt itself out, which it eventually did. At this point I was sure the bike was dead, I turn the key and amazingly the battery level indicator lights up, so I think ok, the level still works but there's no way the motor/controller will. So I leave the grocery store convinced I'd have to pedal hard all the way home, but the auto pedal assist kicked in as usual, I couldn't beleive it! Only the wire I had added melted, leaving all original wires and equipement untouched!
Anyway if you read my other threads you know I got lucky that time, but I blew 2 controllers in a week after that and now resorted to using a relay and push button to control my motor while I wait for my new controller.
I had also recently drilled a hole in my battery pack to add an emergency shut down switch, I got this idea because I had added cables going directly to the battery (not even through the ignition key switch) for a better battery level indicator (my bike has those pointless green/yellow/red digital meters you can't even see unless it's at night, even when you see it it's completely pointless other than a last minute warning that the battery is dead).
Well one day when leaving with my groceries I was unlocking the bike when suddenly clouds of dense smoke started pouring out of it like crazy, people must have thought there was a huge fire. There's was NOTHING I could do, the battery was physically jammed onto the bike, the wires bypassed all switches, and I just had to wait for the short to melt itself out, which it eventually did. At this point I was sure the bike was dead, I turn the key and amazingly the battery level indicator lights up, so I think ok, the level still works but there's no way the motor/controller will. So I leave the grocery store convinced I'd have to pedal hard all the way home, but the auto pedal assist kicked in as usual, I couldn't beleive it! Only the wire I had added melted, leaving all original wires and equipement untouched!
Anyway if you read my other threads you know I got lucky that time, but I blew 2 controllers in a week after that and now resorted to using a relay and push button to control my motor while I wait for my new controller.
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The villain was the specification for XLR, aab1.
Designers go looking for a strong shelled but small three way connector, come across this readily available one with a 15 amp rating and of course it's just what they want.
I don't know about your market in Canada, though I suspect it's the same, but look around in ours and there's very little else that could do the job. Most with that current capability are far larger and brittle plastics based.
The NTC I've mentioned is also a microphone job with similar problems and has poorer availability here.
The world-wide e-bike market is far too small to justify a specific design and large scale low cost production.
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Designers go looking for a strong shelled but small three way connector, come across this readily available one with a 15 amp rating and of course it's just what they want.
I don't know about your market in Canada, though I suspect it's the same, but look around in ours and there's very little else that could do the job. Most with that current capability are far larger and brittle plastics based.
The NTC I've mentioned is also a microphone job with similar problems and has poorer availability here.
The world-wide e-bike market is far too small to justify a specific design and large scale low cost production.
.
A rainy day, there I was sitting there quite happily, pencil in hand, blank sheet of paper, vernier and the offending XLR connector. Just about to design the worlds first XLR extractor and in walks SHE WHO MUST BE OBEYED back from playing with her horses, I explained the difficulty of pulling the connector out and she insisted on having a go,after several attempts she gave up(arthritic fingers too) but then she dons a rubber glove and yanks the thing straight out!! I put it in,she did it again, I didn't even bother to put the glove on I just wrapped it round and pulled Hey Presto out it popped. Suffice to say a redundant rubber glove has now taken up residence next to our chargers.Just when will she stop embarrassing me, it really is too much !!
Very embarassing Richard. 
But you can still display your innate male superiority. Adopt a trick used for running in threaded items by hand. Wind a rubber band around the plug body so it stays there permanently and that does the same job, or a scrap of suitable rubber tubing if you have some. Then you don't have to go looking for a rubber glove ever.
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But you can still display your innate male superiority.
Adopt a trick used for running in threaded items by hand. Wind a rubber band around the plug body so it stays there permanently and that does the same job, or a scrap of suitable rubber tubing if you have some. Then you don't have to go looking for a rubber glove ever. .
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