Compatability of aikema motor with kunteng controller

[Nealh]

Correct P1 setting affects how the motor delivers speed smoothly when using pas, throttle works independtaly and gives full power with no issues.
My Q128c with factory set lcd P1 originally at 87 and under pas my hub assist was intermittent and faltered delivering speed smoothly , P1 set for 202 /12:6:1 x 16 changed all of that and speed is smoothly delivered. Also P1 154/ 9:6:1 x 16 also delivered smoother speed delivery.

 

[jhruk]

Correct P1 setting affects how the motor delivers speed smoothly when using pas, throttle works independtaly and gives full power with no issues.
My Q128c with factory set lcd P1 originally at 87 and under pas my hub assist was intermittent and faltered delivering speed smoothly , P1 set for 202 /12:6:1 x 16 changed all of that and speed is smoothly delivered. Also P1 154/ 9:6:1 x 16 also delivered smoother speed delivery.

Interesting, I only tried it using throttle. Perhaps the PAS uses the computed speed. I’ll try it again using PAS tomorrow. Did you have P3 set for Speed or ‘Torque’ control?

 

[Nealh]

You should find pas acts differently to throttle, as I said throttle gives me flawless smooth power in all settings I tried.
P3 setting is 1 for torque /current control.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

My Q75 ran riugh and certain speeds if I gave full power with either the throttle or PAS. It ran OK on levels 1, 2 and 3 PAS. I tried different P1 settings, that seemed to make a small difference better or worse, then I tried P1=160 and bingo - beautiful smooth running under all conditions. It dles something to harmonise the wave form or pulse frequency to the motor. The Q75 is sensorless and my controller was the cyclindrical bottle battery one.

There is another setting that I can't remember atthe moment that's something to do with motor phases, but I haven't figured out what it does. There's more than 2 settings, so it can't be 60/120 deg phase angle.

The back-pedalling to get the motor going doesn't make sense as far as the controller settings are concerned. I think it's more likely that there's a fault in the sensor. Is the gap between the magnets and the sensor 1mm? Do the magnets pass directly over the sensor?

 

[djbarnat]

The P1 setting is definitely having an effect on how my q100 motor runs. The kit originally came with a different motor and P1 setting was 88. When I replaced the original motor with the q100 the q100 was running way to slow at 88 and the speed read out was way too high. The higher I set set P1 with the q100 the more aggressively it seems to accelerate. I tried 202 today and I now get a much more progressive build up in the acceleration and (touch wood) I have not had any cut outs from my initial test run. The motor seems to be less stressed at this setting so will stick with it and see how it goes.

Sent from my NEM-L51 using Tapatalk

 

[djbarnat]

D8veh, sorry not sure how to quote a post an Tapatalk. The PAS sensor is lined up correctly and was working fine on the bike I took it off of. However if this 202 setting proves not improve matters I am going to replace it next.

Sent from my NEM-L51 using Tapatalk

 

[Swinman]

Just want to say thanks for this thread I want to get out on my bike soon to try it but I know from the pas in settings 1 or 2 that the bike runs fine but not to full speed but in 3-5 it can and will cut out , the same with the throttle if I push it slow then all fine but push it full and the bike cuts out , reel the person testing this is a load only problem if you just lift the wheel then the bike goes like a dream so road test with load is what is needed thanks

 

[djbarnat]

Motor cut out on the way to work this morning . Back to the drawing board. New PAS sensor is worth the cost to rule it out so will be picking one up.

 

[nuke23]

maybe you can help me:

I bought a new ebike from a guy who doesn't know anything about the bike.price was super cheap cause motor doesn't work.so i decided to buy it.
the motor doesn't start at all!
the bike has no brand.
i just know that the motor is aikema akm-13.0 geared brushless 36v/250w and the computer is an CK-1
battery seem to work fine, is full, i can charge my smartphone by the usb (see pics).
near the chain, there is a red button blinking.
in computer i can change the assisting level but nothing changes, motor never starts.
i don't see any sensor, i mean in the PAS.
i just read on the pedal "SUPER, torque sensor". when i turn on the bike and the computer the red button start to blink.
tried to ask to some bike stores but nobody knew how to help me.
anyone have some ideas? i attach some pics

 

[Nealh]

Aikema hubs have no issues working with KT controllers my one worked nicely with my 6 fet dual voltage one and now my 9 fet one.
The issue with your set up might be the PAS which is a torque sensor set up so the controller is also a TS version, TS isn't commonly used with hubs and causes more issues when faults develop due to lack of finding spares on the open market.
On the TS PAS look to see that any optic eye is clean.
The five pin/TS connector should have marked arrows to align the connectors and aline to which to push it up to, check the cable for damage esp any cuts/splits or cable tie pinching which will damage the thin inner wires.

The nine pin motor connector is standard and sequence is also standard with all hub manufacturer's, make sure the marked arrows on both parts of the motor wire connector line up and are firmly pushed together to the raised marked stop line.
You can test the controller for mosfet failure
Follow the motor cable to the controller, you can either remove the controller or test the controller via the motor wire for mosfet damage which would cause operation failure.
You can easily test the phase wires for mosfet issues with a DVM, the three larger pin outs are the phase wires. Carry out the test with no battery connected as it is a resistance test. On the female/controller side of the motor connector probe all three larger pin outs against the v- controller input, set the meter to 200ohms and you should get three results all the same 9k - 20k. Any reading widely different is a fet done for.
Do the same test using the v+ input wire all three results should be the same but not necessarily as the previous three if a zero reading is seen at all then fet is done for.

The other likelihood could be a toasted controller if some one has crossed the polarity at all.

 

[nuke23]

thanks for answering.
could u please explain me better?i'm not an expert
the red light is clean, but i don't get how the system works, while riding nothing go in front of this red light blinking (or maybe sensor, don't know how to call it), so how can the system "understand" if i ride or not? how it can understand if pedals are riding?
thank you.
emanuele

 

[Nealh]

thanks for answering.
could u please explain me better?i'm not an expert
the red light is clean, but i don't get how the system works, while riding nothing go in front of this red light blinking (or maybe sensor, don't know how to call it), so how can the system "understand" if i ride or not? how it can understand if pedals are riding?
thank you.
emanuele

The TS PAS sensor is all enclosed with in the unit on the inside of the chainring and is a digital input, it is wired to the special Bottom bracket which has sensors on each side to measure crank pressure/input. This information is then sent to the controller, they are more expensive and less reliable then traditional cadence PAS used on most bikes and is the reason why they are not commonly used on hub bikes.
The red led lights up or blinks when the system works, no led lighting up means there is a fault which could be torque sensor Bottom bracket, TS pas unit or controller.

 

[vfr400]

Your pedal sensor is unusual. If you want to use a standard controller, you will need to use a standard magnet disc pedal sensor, but there isn't enough room to install one on your crank. That means that you must either replace your complete crank-set and bottom bracket or modify the pedal sensor to fit somehow.

Before doing anything, check that the motor connector near the motor is pushed in all the way to the marked line.