Conversion kit for my trek 4500 2013

Kwozzymodo

Pedelecer
Sep 9, 2017
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Could you not use a torque arm, or two, to secure the rear hub. Looks like you have some threaded mounts to do the trick.

Nice bike for conversion, by the way.
 
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Raboa

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 12, 2014
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Hi, I have a Q100H front motor kit that I am looking to give away. It was bought in 2014 / 2015, front wheel hand build by wheelcraft in Scotland, battery still working (charging at the minute, keep inside during storage). If you pay postage it's yours, I live in Glasgow. I need to find the torque arms, if I can't find them they are not expensive.
 
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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Both of those applications aren't suitable imho, hub axles are minimum 12mm x 10mm, you need the 12mm depth to fully sit in the drop out, even the front will eventually crack though metal fatigue even with TA's.
Your best option is a mid motor or a bike with suitable drop outs.
 

Ryanm87

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 27, 2020
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Ok cheers, ill have to go down that route then and have a front motor for my mrs vintage style cruzer ;)

For my trek is bafang the only good company that do mid motors
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Tongsheng a TS model, Woosh or many other sellers from China.
Aikema make a BBS type clone with higher gear reduction ratio on Topbikekit.
Lingbei ( Ex Bafang engineers) make a BBS type clone as well, with TS and cadence on AliExp.
Gospade if only you can buy one, make a super light model.
Yalu company make one with which you use an external controller of any make, on AliExp.
 
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tomtag

Pedelecer
Feb 11, 2019
64
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Hi Nealh, your comments on the rear dropouts; I think I have something similar to this donor bike but am now interested to see if I have missed anything with my build. Is it a case of if it goes together all is ok; or is there more to consider? (I didn't quite understand the part where you said the hub axle needs to sit deeper in the dropout; do you mean the axle is longer, or the dropout needs to accommodate a larger diameter on the inside face)
 

Ryanm87

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 27, 2020
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He means that it a m12 bolt that drops into the dropouts and need to be enough space for the m12 to sit inside?
 

Benjahmin

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 10, 2014
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Motor axles are generally 12mm diameter with 10mm flats on them. The dropout needs to be deep enough to accomadate the 12mm.
 

tomtag

Pedelecer
Feb 11, 2019
64
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Ok, thanks understand now. Mine did sit inside the dropout then the tan on the anti rotation washer just sat inside the dropout flats as well. It's not ideal though, so should fit a torque arm really. (Apologies for jumping in on your thread ryan). Maybe there is a chance for a rear motor if your dropouts are as deep as the ones on my trek?
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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As Ben and I have mentioned the axle is 12 x 10mm not 9mm like QR's , the 12mm means the axle and wheel physically sits 3mm lower so the flat edges of the axle do not sit fully in the drop out (unless they are strangely much longer drop outs then one would normally find ). The drop outs often require reaming out with a dremel or laboriously with rat tail file, the side profile is such that it needs to be quite flat so that the M12 flanged axle nut can fit and tighten. Not all bike rear drop outs are suitable.
 

tomtag

Pedelecer
Feb 11, 2019
64
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Thanls for the clarification. I can see how the wheel could sit 1.5mm lower with the increase in radius from the axle centre. Mine does engage fully on the flats but the wheel only came with one flanged nut, the other parallel. It could be worth measuring the dropout depth and flat face diameter on the outer faces before writing off a rear wheel kit?
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Nearly all rear geared hubs use 12 x 10 axle, your one is certainly not deep enough.
 

Ryanm87

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 27, 2020
18
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Ok thanks, thought so, :( no im guessing all i can do now is make it bigger or go for a mid drive motor?