Conversion kit opinions

[rusky]

I'm looking to convert one of my bikes, the candidates are: -

1. Marin muirwoods 29er, steel framed & cable operated disc brakes.
2. Voodoo Bantu, alu framed hardtail with hydraulic disc brakes.

The conversion kits I have in my shortlist in no particular order are: -

1. BBS001 from woosh
2. 8FUN rear wheel kit
3. One of the Dillenger rear wheel kits

I think the Marin is the one I would prefer to convert as it's got cable disc brakes so I can just replace the levers with whatever's in the kit but I'm open to your opinions.

I don't really want to buy from China as I would rather have the ease of buying from a UK supplier, no hassle with import duty & I'm impatient!

 

[trex]

I'd go for the 18A BBS01. Easy to fit, well made, good speed, good power.

 

[rusky]

Anyone else?

 

[peerjay56]

Trex's stuck record is worth considering, but you need to be sure you have a 68mm BB, otherwise there will be a lot of bodging to do - indeed, depending on the BB, it may not be possible to fit a BBS01 at all.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

First, you have to decide how fast you want to go and how far. You also need to describe what sort of cycling you want to do, and tell us your weight and fitness. There's loads of different kits, which all have advantages and disadvantages.

 

[johneb]

I'm in a similar position to you and (following advice from the gurus on here, along with my own research) have pretty much decided upon the BBS01 (250W version to be almost road legal). Seems crank drive is the way to go for help on the hills, which is my principal criterion. I've gone into importing from China, and if ALL the correct import duties are levied, the best price I can find comes out around £300-ish. It seems that some people on here are only hit for about £40 duty on such items, in which case an import becomes financially viable. However, Woosh bikes ( a very helpful bunch) do it for £330 - no hassle, 12 months UK warranty, so a no-brainer for me.

I, too, have the bike dilemma. Convert my classic and very light ParkPre Pro 825, Merlin Malt 1 or Claud Butler Cape Wrath. Planning on the latter at the moment - I can always swap the kit later if I want.

Good Luck!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Seems crank drive is the way to go for help on the hills, which is my principal criterion.

That's completely wrong!

 

[johneb]

That's completely wrong!

????

Quote from your advice to me on June 10th: "If you want legal, low cost and good climbing, you're pretty well limited to two motors: The Bafang BBS01 250W crank drive, and the Bafang BPM kit. Anything lighter will struggle up the hills."

Have I misunderstood?

 

[rusky]

It's a square taper 68mm BB that's just taken a 5' scaffold pole to remove

 

[rusky]

First, you have to decide how fast you want to go and how far. You also need to describe what sort of cycling you want to do, and tell us your weight and fitness. There's loads of different kits, which all have advantages and disadvantages.

I would prefer to stay legal, so 15mph is good enough unless anyone can convince me that the extra £19 for the 350w is worth it for use on private land.

Distance wise, I can't envisage covering more than 20 miles max on the converted bike. It will be used for commuting. I live 3 miles from work which is pretty much all uphill on the way home & usually into a headwind.

About me, I'm sub 100Kg (just!) & reasonably fit.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

????

Quote from your advice to me on June 10th: "If you want legal, low cost and good climbing, you're pretty well limited to two motors: The Bafang BBS01 250W crank drive, and the Bafang BPM kit. Anything lighter will struggle up the hills."

Have I misunderstood?

I'm not sure how you derived from that that crank-drive would be the best because it isn't.

 

[trex]

I am not entirely clear on why a BPM motor (36V running at 20A) is legal while an BBS01 36V 18A 350W is not. The 350W rating on the BBS01 is maximal output, not nominal.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

As long as the motor's rated at 250W, it's legal. There's no limit on current, nor maximum power.

 

[johneb]

I'm not sure how you derived from that that crank-drive would be the best because it isn't.

My impression was that you were equally advocating both the BBS01 and BPM. I'd read elsewhere that as crank motors drive through the gears, they will cope better with climbing. You are clearly very knowledgeable on this subject and I appreciate your advice - Would you suggest the BPM is the better option for hilly terrain, then?

 

[trex]

come to Redbridge this Sunday, we can race the BPM against the BBS01 18A 350W. I bet the BBS01 will win if derestricted, but I don't know which one will win if both are limited to 15mph, possibly the BPM.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

My impression was that you were equally advocating both the BBS01 and BPM. I'd read elsewhere that as crank motors drive through the gears, they will cope better with climbing. You are clearly very knowledgeable on this subject and I appreciate your advice - Would you suggest the BPM is the better option for hilly terrain, then?

The BPM motor is much bigger and provides more torque in every gear except maybe first. The BPM will run typically with 20A to 22A compared with the BBS01s 15A, so it'll provide over 30% more power too.

Low powered crank motors can get you up steep hills, but you have to do a lot of pedalling whilst going slowly in first gear. The hub-motors don't care what gear you're in. They give their torque regardless, which makes them much more relaxing and comfortable to ride.

Obviously, low powered crank motors can climb better than low powered hub-motors, but there's 250w hub motors that can give a lot of power and torque.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

come to Redbridge this Sunday, we can race the BPM against the BBS01 18A 350W. I bet the BBS01 will win if derestricted, but I don't know which one will win if both are limited to 15mph, possibly the BPM.

John said that he wanted 250W. If he wanted more, the 500W BPM is the same size and weight as the 250w version. It'll blow the 18A BBS01 into the weeds.

 

[PatM]

I'm a batfastard and must weigh well over 16 stone. I've got a 250w front hub running at 36v frog battery. I've got a e-crazy man (eBay) controller and I run 22mph on the flat, no kidding, and easy up hills. Being rotund, I'm always pedalling, nut with no sweat. I love my first e-kit and 16 months on, don't understand why more folks don't do it. I like playing with electronics but other than a change of batteries, I've had no issues. I started on 24v then fancied upping the game, just to see if the controller would handle it (9mosfets). Folks on this site were right, it did. A frog is only 10ah but does me on my 5 mile ride out two nights running.

 

[Cyclezee]

come to Redbridge this Sunday, we can race the BPM against the BBS01 18A 350W. I bet the BBS01 will win if derestricted, but I don't know which one will win if both are limited to 15mph, possibly the BPM.

As far as Cyclezee is concerned, non of our bikes at Redbridge will be de-restricted, we don't see this as an event for racing, it is simply try an e-bike day.

 

[johneb]

The BPM motor is much bigger and provides more torque in every gear except maybe first. The BPM will run typically with 20A to 22A compared with the BBS01s 15A, so it'll provide over 30% more power too.

Low powered crank motors can get you up steep hills, but you have to do a lot of pedalling whilst going slowly in first gear. The hub-motors don't care what gear you're in. They give their torque regardless, which makes them much more relaxing and comfortable to ride.

Obviously, low powered crank motors can climb better than low powered hub-motors, but there's 250w hub motors that can give a lot of power and torque.

Ok, thanks. I've had another look at the BPM and see it's 350W. So, staying road legal at 250W, what hub motor(s) would you recommend might be best suited to hauling my 14 stone self and dodgy legs around Welsh/Derbyshire countryside?