Cycling in Paris

lemmy

Esteemed Pedelecer
I've just got back from three days cycling around Paris. I've been visiting and on occasions working there for many years but this time I fancied a visit on my own simply to explore. I took my Brompton rather than my Kalkhoff but cycling is cycling. I thought some forum members might find a few observations useful.

First, what a luxury it is to cycle without having to look out for potholes the whole time. The French have a policy of maintaining roads on a regular basis rather than reacting to reports of potholes and problems. Their road authorities maintain that this is much cheaper in the long run as well as contributing to a more efficient infrastructure.

The picture here shows my Brommie in one of the cycle lanes. The French have taken a different attitude to here and all over Paris are cycle lanes physically separated from the motor traffic. It is very effective in keeping cars from parking and blocking the lane. Cycles can also use the bus lanes, of course and these also are physically separated from the general carriageway.

Obviously there are streets where such physical separation is not possible but if you know Paris well, it should be possible to plan most journeys with the majority of the mileage safe from car drivers.

My main concern was how to negotiate 'les grandes places', those massive roundabouts at Etoile, Bastille, La Republique and so on. In practise, they are fine. I just waited and followed French cyclists through to see how they did it. Actually, they just ride round with quick glances to make sure there are no lunatic drivers around. French law holds that in principle, in any accident between a car and a cycle, the car driver is to blame. Thus, if they do hit anyone, they can expect little understanding from the police or their insurance company. On the other hand, French cyclists jump lights and weave between pedestrians much less than their London counterparts, so there is a quid pro quo. In fact, as I noticed when I lived in France, the roads are much less aggressive, blowing of horns and those angry contorted faces of car drivers being less in evidence than in London. That is not to say I doesn't happen, of course but such behaviour, like public drunkenness, is still frowned on rather than given tacit approval as it is here.

I'm comparing Paris with London mainly, simply because I know London best. It may be that the situation is different in other cities in the UK but I wouldn't know. I am also unusual, I think, in that I prefer riding in cities to riding in the county.

I'd like to have taken my Kalkoff to Paris and covered more ground than he average 25 miles a day I did but the Brompton can just be bunged in the boot of the car or in the luggage areas on the Eurostar. In fact, I've just made a good argument for an electric Brompton.....

I only saw one electric bike in Paris, ridden by an extremely elegantly dressed middle aged woman obviously going about her business judging by her dress and the expensive leather briefcase in her handlebar basket.

The Velolibs are very popular and seen all the time everywhere right out to the high number arrondissements.

I saw one other electric bike in Senlis, a beautiful old medieval town 40km or so NW of Paris. It was La Poste issue and laden with post as you can see from the pic. I had an interesting chat with the post woman, who old me that La Poste were rolling out electric bikes all over France, finding them highly efficient and reliable. She said that they got 40km range between charges but that if you did run out of battery power it was awful to ride. I suggested she might buy a spare battery for the round but she was of the opinion that the bike was so heavily laden with post at the start of the round that the weight of the extra battery would flatten the tyres!

All in all, a highly enjoyable trip. I might plan on taking the Kalkhoff to Paris but riding it from Calais rather than in the car. Or possibly from Dieppe...or Le Havre and following the Seine all the way. Can't wait!



 

Scottyf

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 2, 2011
1,403
-1
Very nice thread, I also saw a couple posties while in France on electric bikes and really liked riding round when I went there last with my partner.
There was also my brother in law that was with us who is also a keen motorcyclist and jumping on a push bike was his idea on getting round and sight seeing.

Much to my delight it was very easy, cheap and super quick for a weekend away in the city.

Glad you enjoyed your ride!
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
52,807
30,379
Don't know if it still applies, but decades ago to put a stop to the bedlam that was Paris at the time, the use of vehicle horns was banned outright.
 

funkylyn

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 22, 2011
3,172
27
South Shields, Tyne & Wear
What an interesting write up Lemmy, sounds like you had a great time, were you surprised to see so few electric bikes ?
I wonder how popular they are in France ?
I like the sound of the separated cycle lanes.
Bet you cant wait to go back :)
What a great idea to cycle your Kalkoff from the ferry port.....now that will be something..... all along the seine......hurry up and go i want to hear all about it :)

Lynda
 

lemmy

Esteemed Pedelecer
What a great idea to cycle your Kalkoff from the ferry port.....now that will be something..... all along the seine......hurry up and go i want to hear all about it :)

Lynda
Thanks for the kind words, folks. yes, Lynda, I can't wait either but it will have to be next year now. Wimp that I am, I don't fancy it in bad weather!

I believe that law does still apply, Flecc, and lorries have to make their deliveries during the night. That helps the cycling experience too.

I learned a lot about the French when I lived there and one of the main things was how pragmatic they are, so if not using your horn and night time deliveries seem a benefit, they legislate it. Of course, from our point of view it can seem very authoritarian and wouldn't go down at all well.

In parts of the city where cycle lanes aren't practical and the one way system would need a big detour, they simply allow cycles to ride against the traffic in a marked out lane. This seems to work without rancour, probably because of the liability of the car driver to take care.

Also, if the road is clear of pedestrians, cars are allowed to turn right (would be left in the UK, of course) against the lights. Again, pragmatic but not something I think we will ever see here.

The other observation I meant to make is that it is rare to see anyone wearing a helmet.

Also, yes, I was surprised not to see more e-bikes but a lot of Parisians are on holiday in August so that may be something to do with it.
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
52,807
30,379
I learned a lot about the French when I lived there and one of the main things was how pragmatic they are, so if not using your horn and night time deliveries seem a benefit, they legislate it. Of course, from our point of view it can seem very authoritarian and wouldn't go down at all well.
Very much my experience Lemmy, when I lived and worked there in the 1960s I learnt a considerable respect for the French and their innate wisdom in so many matters. We could learn much from them.
 

kitchenman

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 9, 2010
1,309
7
Aberaeron, West Wales
A friend of mine went to Paris on the "green road" from Dieppe ..
Dieppe - Arques
Looks great.
 

scarrabri

Pedelecer
May 14, 2011
248
4
Stoke on Trent
Excellent write up , still not sure i would like to ride round one of there traffic islands in rush hour ,have there e/bikes got a speed restriction on them like we have in the uk ,best wishes Brian.
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
52,807
30,379
have there e/bikes got a speed restriction on them like we have in the uk
The same over the whole of Europe Brian, 25 kph / 15 mph maximum motor assist speed.

Germany has additional high speed/high power classes, but they have to be registered with number plates and have insurance.
 

vaasa

Pedelecer
Nov 14, 2010
35
0
Very nice thread. As I live and work in Paris and use an electric bike, all the praise you give to the French is music to my ears. I even feel guilty of jumping the lights ever so often.

On a more practical note, if you want to explore the villages and towns and landscapes south of Paris, I recommend "Coulée Verte". It is a green cycle alley that starts from the center of Paris - from Montparnasse, to be more exact. I think it's on an ancient railway track. You can actually get to the center of Paris riding among trees and bushes. It is 21 km long and it goes by the famous Parc de Sceaux with its castle at midway (at 10km), which you can visit. The Coulée Verte ends in Massy, but from there you can continue on cycle roads until St Rémy lès Chevreuse and the famous valley of Chevreuse with all its castles and other tourist attractions. In my experience of 10 years of cycling in Paris, Coulée Verte is the best bicycle route in and out of Paris. It can be a little bit tricky at times with some twists and turns but there are the markings and signs you have to follow to keep yourself on the route. I can provide a link to an electronic map, if anyone is interested.

Concerning the electric bikes, there are many of them and I see them every day. There is a french forum dedicated to the electric bikes and commuting just like this one, where you can see that the popularity of electric bikes is going up very fast indeed. For those of you who can speak French, here is a link to the forum
 

kitchenman

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 9, 2010
1,309
7
Aberaeron, West Wales
hi vassa, Yes. Please provide the link to "Coulée Verte" - thanks
 

lemmy

Esteemed Pedelecer
This is exciting! Thanks for that route Alan (kitchenman) and vaasa. I hope to do both of those next year.

On the subject of electric bikes in Paris, I mentioned that I thought I would see more of them. But when I think about London, I doubt that I see more than 1 per month on my travels. But I know (from this forum) and sales figures, that they exist, just not in numbers that make it likely you will see one very often, I suppose.

I imagine that it's the same in Paris.
 

carpetbagger

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 20, 2007
744
18
blackburn
Cycling in France always seems a lot safer than here as they give you more room when overtaking,i have seen signs that in my area general driving awareness of cyclists is improving..probably because there are more of us.
I was on holiday in Compiegne af few years ago,just down the road from Senlis and in those days the bikes in France were cheaper than here and better quality for the money so one year i bought my son a new bike in Senlis,we already had his with us so that year we went out with four and came back with five ! The following year we went back to the bike shop in Senlis for my daughters bike and the same chap served us again.
 

vaasa

Pedelecer
Nov 14, 2010
35
0
Ok Alan (kitchenman) and others, here is a map with Coulée Verte

Here is also a map of some other possible bicycle routes out of Paris(including Coulée Verte in light blue). I haven't tried them all as they have been marked down by various users. So, be still vigilant and, if possible, take your GPS or Iphone etc. with map function. If you want to go all the way until St Rémy lés Chevreuse, at the end of the Coulée Verte at Massy, follow one of the tracks marked by the dark blue color on the map and then the track marked by the light green. You can even take a shortcut (by following the light green route all the time), but when you'll miss out most of the Coulée Verte

Moreover, this site provides information for all sorts of magnificent bike routes in France. Hundreds of KM along Atlantic coast of France, anyone? Or here some other routes like LIAISON MANCHE - OCEAN: de SAINT MALO à ARZAL - 200km

There is even a search engine for all the departments in France (including Paris) for finding scenic bicycle routes with detailed description and maps. Unfortunately, it is only in French Here is the link
 

kitchenman

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 9, 2010
1,309
7
Aberaeron, West Wales
Thanks vaasa. One thing that I like to do on this forum is find out what ebikes members have. I collect all kinds of details from their postings or ask them directly ... like when they acquired it? How many kilometres they have done? If they commute, how far is it? What kind of route do they take? ...etc ..the list goes on! ... Perhaps I can send you my questionaire using a PM? ...
thanks
Alan
 

vaasa

Pedelecer
Nov 14, 2010
35
0
Ok, no problem. You can send me the questionnaire by PM. I'll do my best to respond.