Cyclotricity kit versus 8fun kit
- Thread starter Yamdude
- Start date
D
Deleted member 4366
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I get mine from here, but shipping is expensive unless you buy other stuff. You could of course get the nice sine-wave controller with LCD to go with the Cycltricity kit, plus a couple of in-line brake sensors.
EBike Torque Arm
EBike Torque Arm
I know what your saying but I'm always over cautious, with the mileage I'm doing i'd feel safer knowing that I'm not going to wreck my forks or more importantly my front hub motor.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
All those torque arms work.
Drop-outs aren't designed to resist torque. Some are stronger that others, so first you have to make a judgement. I've seen some quite thin forks/drop-outs on OEM bikes with front motors and no torque arms, which give no problems provided that the wheel-nuts are done up tight enough.
The anti-rotation washers are not enough on their own to resist torque. Most of the resistance comes from the tight wheel-nuts.
When you install a motor axle, it doesn't go in as deep as a normal axle. Most motor axles are 12mm compared with 9mm for a QR wheel, which means that the centre is 1.5mm lower; however, the shape is also different, which stops it from going fully home. The end result is that the axle centre will be 2.5mm lower. The tab on the anti-rotation washer often isn't even in the drop-out. This is why I always deepen and re-shape the drop-outs. When doing this, you have to make sure that all corners are nicely rounded to prevent raising stresses.
The next thing you have to look out for is that the first washer must fit in the dimple without touching the lip, otherwise the nut won't stay tight, and the force of tightening it will pop the front off the drop-out.
The diagram should show what I'm on about.
Drop-outs aren't designed to resist torque. Some are stronger that others, so first you have to make a judgement. I've seen some quite thin forks/drop-outs on OEM bikes with front motors and no torque arms, which give no problems provided that the wheel-nuts are done up tight enough.
The anti-rotation washers are not enough on their own to resist torque. Most of the resistance comes from the tight wheel-nuts.
When you install a motor axle, it doesn't go in as deep as a normal axle. Most motor axles are 12mm compared with 9mm for a QR wheel, which means that the centre is 1.5mm lower; however, the shape is also different, which stops it from going fully home. The end result is that the axle centre will be 2.5mm lower. The tab on the anti-rotation washer often isn't even in the drop-out. This is why I always deepen and re-shape the drop-outs. When doing this, you have to make sure that all corners are nicely rounded to prevent raising stresses.
The next thing you have to look out for is that the first washer must fit in the dimple without touching the lip, otherwise the nut won't stay tight, and the force of tightening it will pop the front off the drop-out.
The diagram should show what I'm on about.
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I'm more understanding the importance of how the axle sits in the fork dropouts now. I shall be filing my drop outs wider and deeper if they need it. I can also now see the importance of the washer seating properly in the dimple of the dropouts.
I'm still undecided whether the kit i'll be fitting will need a torque bar, these motors aren't very powerful at only 250w. But i'll decide after I've fitted it.
There's still the issue that I might have to change the forks altogether yet...... i'm also thinking that I might go for a steel rigid fork. This will obviously be stronger, will probably lose me over a kilo in weight, and the sort of riding I do suspension forks are probably unnecessary anyway.
I'm still undecided whether the kit i'll be fitting will need a torque bar, these motors aren't very powerful at only 250w. But i'll decide after I've fitted it.
There's still the issue that I might have to change the forks altogether yet...... i'm also thinking that I might go for a steel rigid fork. This will obviously be stronger, will probably lose me over a kilo in weight, and the sort of riding I do suspension forks are probably unnecessary anyway.
C
Cyclezee
Guest
Our versatile stainless steel torque plate sets are back in stock, 200 sets arrived this morning. We sell these worldwide.
£12 per set plus £1 for postage in the UK.
If you decide to buy, our methods of payment are as follows:
Bank transfer (please ask for details)
Cheque made payable to Cyclezee Ltd
PayPal to sales@cyclezee.com ( please add 4% if using this method)
I can recommend these having bought and fitted one, real quality and very well made plus first class service.
Hi John, I have just transferred you £13 + 4% via paypal with my address for this! thank you.
C
Cyclezee
Guest
Its out for delivery today, so I should be fitting it either today or tomorrow.....
Although in the mail I received, its being delivered by Yodel..... possibly the worst carrier on the planet. So it's anyone's guess whether it actually gets delivered today.
Ok, kit turned up this afternoon..... something i'm stuck on....
The thumb throttle has a connector that will fit 2 different connectors coming out of the controller. Thumb throttle has 3 wires red, black and white.
The 2 connectors coming from the controller, one has 3 wires of red, black and blue..... the other connector has 3 wires of red, black and yellow/green.
Even though the thumb throttle will fit both these connectors, the colours don't correspond to either.
Can anyone shed some light on this please ?
The thumb throttle has a connector that will fit 2 different connectors coming out of the controller. Thumb throttle has 3 wires red, black and white.
The 2 connectors coming from the controller, one has 3 wires of red, black and blue..... the other connector has 3 wires of red, black and yellow/green.
Even though the thumb throttle will fit both these connectors, the colours don't correspond to either.
Can anyone shed some light on this please ?
That's a bit frustrating, mine is exactly like the wiring diagram on the Cyclotricity web site under "support" which appears to be different from yours. My throttle is white red black with red in middle and white on left when viewed from open end of connector.
If I had to guess I would think the controller connector to use would have red in the middle but I stress it's only a guess!
I wouldn't take a chance so email or phone Cyclotricity direct.
I emailed with a query about fork washers when I was fitting mine and got a very quick answer.
Edit to say sorry I was thinking you had the Cyclotricity kit, so ignore this, new specs or brain required on my part!
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Thanks mate..... but it was the 8fun kit I bought, not the Cyclotricity one.
That's a bit frustrating, mine is exactly like the wiring diagram on the Cyclotricity web site under "support" which appears to be different from yours. My throttle is white red black with red in middle and white on left when viewed from open end of connector.
If I had to guess I would think the controller connector to use would have red in the middle but I stress it's only a guess!
I wouldn't take a chance so email or phone Cyclotricity direct.
I emailed with a query about fork washers when I was fitting mine and got a very quick answer.
Edit to say sorry I was thinking you had the Cyclotricity kit, so ignore this, new specs or brain required on my part!
Tried to ring 8fun, but there was no answer on the 0845 number. Had to call a mobile number and they said they'd email me a picture of whats connected to what...... many hours later at 8pm I finally received the mail from them. The thumb throttle is connected to the connector with the red, black and yellow/green wires. Really confusing that because thumb throttle wires are different colours of red, black and white.
Anyway connected it and nothing, no power to motor..... then connected the handlebar display and it worked..... As I haven't connected the pedal sensor, I thought I would only need the display for that.
So it seems this system is pedal assist or throttle, but not both, as you have to press different buttons on the display for pedal assist or throttle.
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