Dahon Jetstream conversion

[cwah]

I removed the front wheel.

Here is what the hub look like:

On the right side the bearings are completely gone. The little metal balls are literally falling from the hub.

I'm not sure if I can fix this hub? Shall I replace it? If so, where?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That's very easy to fix as long as you can get the bits of the broken bearing out. There should be a number written on the edge somewhere. Once you have that, you can get one from any bearing supplier and tap it in using a block of wood and a hammer or mallet.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

This tells you how to do it from half-way down the page for your type.
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-servicing-a-front-hub-21950/

 

[cwah]

Thanks D8veh, it's a seriously good site too. I'm going to look at it.

Where is the best place to get bearings?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Look in the yellow pages or local directory for "bearing suppliers", or, once you have the numbers, type it into Google. The important information is the outside diameter, the inside diameter, the thickness and with/without seal. If you type the number in to Google, you should be able to find that information. My guess is that the size will be 28mm O/D, 10mm I/D, 8mm thick. A bearing supplier will know that information and offer you one from an alternative manufacturer. There's a useful explanation here:
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-the-Point-Cartridge-Bearings-2013.html

 

[cwah]

Thanks d8veh. I thought I was good with bicycle but actually I still have so many things to learn

I'll read all that and go ahead

 

[cwah]

I'm starting to upgrade my tyres and inner tyres to make sure I won't have flats anymore:

I ordered Self healing inner tube:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0012Z5ITA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And added to these the big Apple plus with 3mm greenguard puncture protection:
http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;navigation=1;product=65682;page=1;menu=1000,2,103,202;mid=6

Here's the new tyres compared to the Kojak:

A bit afraid to put too much pressure in it as it's supposed to be a low pressure tyre:

Does look like a fat tyre dahon jetstream!

 

[cwah]

ride feels much softer now. But it looks like top speed decreased slightly and consumption increased by 10-15% :/

 

[jhruk]

I don't know what tyres you were running before but assuming they were narrower they would have a smaller outer circumference and the overall gearing of the bike, including the theoretical motored top speed, should actually increase when changing to the larger Big Apples.

If you were measuring the speed by a wheel sensor did you adjust the wheel circumference in the computer? When I changed from 35-406 Marathon Slicks to 55-406 Big Apples the measured circumference was over 9% larger. If you didn't change the computer setting this would cause the indicated speed to under read by 9%

I didn't notice any change in rolling resistance or battery consumption on mine, just a slightly heavier bike with a much more comfortable ride.

 

[cwah]

I don't have a speedometer on my bike as it gets stolen when I leave anything slightly valuable on my bike.

It was just a feeling it was a bit slower.

However power comsumption really increased as I have a wattmeter that no one steal.

Maybe I need to inflate more the tyre? But I don't want to overinflate

 

[cwah]

I'd like to remove the crank and add some spacer:

Because my pedals are touching the battery box:

What crank removal tool shall I get and what spacers?

Thanks

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You need a longer bottom bracket spindle. You can't add spacers.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Bike-Cycle-Tool-Crank-Extractor-Remover-Puller-Bottom-bracket-remover-tool-/111216040603?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Cycling_BikeLocks_SR&hash=item19e4fe1a9b

 

[dingrpdl]

Getting a bottom bracket with a longer spindle will give you additional clearance. But it will also move the chainring outwards which might affect your chain line. Usually a few millimetres won't matter. However, it looks like the additional clearance you need might be more than just a few millimetres.

Also, you earlier mentioned a problem with the chain slipping off the rear sprocket occasionally. The change in the chainline with a longer BB spindle may make that situation better. Or make it worse. Murphy's Law implies that things will usually get worse!

 

[trex]

can't you put the controller inside the battery bag?

 

[cwah]

no I can't put controller inside bag. Where can I find a bottom bracket long enough? I think few cm is required.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

A few centimeters is probably too much. You might get 1 centimeter on each side depending on how long your present one is (guess 110mm). The longest are about 131mm.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealed-Bottom-Bracket-English-Thread-RRP-19-99-/121166990702?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item1c361d8d6e

 

[jerrysimon]

I have used BA tryes before. I pumped them up hard and they were almost as quick as my Kojaks. They were the pre plus versions though.

Jerry

 

[cwah]

I left my bike overnight in clapham, and see what happened:

Some stupid and greedy thieves stole my £10 led light and snapped out the all the wirings at the same time.

Now half my leds are working


Anything that has a slight potential of value is stolen, I'm amazed how thieves behave.. can't understand them. Last time it was a £10GBP speedometer (which couldn't work without the other half) and now a led light which is operated via the main battery.... I bet they couldn't sell it for any price and just threw it on the bin after few days

 

[cwah]

Ok, I fixed the lights and moved the main light to a less visible location

I hope the new light isn't going to get stolen this time, otherwise I'll have to bolt it on the frame!

 

[cwah]

I received the tool to remove the crankset, but it doesn't seem to fit????

How do I remove it??