Dolphin Frame Battery Pack 48V 11.6A Samsung Cells UK Supplier

acm2000

Pedelecer
Sep 20, 2015
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Ipswich
This is the same battery pack as found on my Woosh Krieger only it is 36v and filled with Samsung 2900mah cells so has 15ah capacity and weighs the same, if you're gonna feeding 48v is 11ah really enough?

Edit: I see it's out of stock on woosh however they have the newer HL version for £315

This item is also on their own website £20 cheaper than eBay http://ebike-sales.co.uk/product/li-ion-dolphin-ebike-battery-48v-11-6ah-black
 
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KirstinS

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Fordulike

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If you're gonna feeding 48v is 11ah really enough?
It depends on how you're using your bike and how it's set up I suppose.

I can get 20 miles out of my BBS02 48v 25A with the PAS always on level 5 (100%). Although my 'Keep Current' is programmed at 80%, so this saves a tiny bit on juice, but not much.

The display was on one bar and the battery BMS hadn't cut-off, so a few more miles might have been squeezed out.
BTW, this was a test to see how the unit stood up to hard riding. I take it much easier on a normal ride out, to protect the drive-train.

We're talking 20 miles of caning the unit to the max, so if one were to use a more conservative setting and ride leisurely, then I see no reason why the distance couldn't be doubled.

As I say, it really depends on how you ride the bike, how the controller's programmed, hills and gearing etc...
 
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SPYDER

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 10, 2015
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I've just today taken delivery of a 13.6ah 48V Dolphin case battery pack from Insat International. £320 inc charger and postage. It uses 3400mah Panasonic 18650 type cells They sell on ebay but I went direct. It came with a printout from the discharge test.

Here is their auction. The Dolphin cases were "new in" so do not feature on it. They also have bottle type cases up to 48V 17ah.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Insat-Li-NMC-eBike-Battery-Electric-Bike-10-15Ah-24V-36V-48V-e-bike-battery-/331485310419?var=&hash=item4d2e106dd3:m:m8c7FUsp_phLtXj3YKUmfLQ
 

Fordulike

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acm2000

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Sep 20, 2015
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Out of interest, what are these tiny holes on the side of the dolphin case?
 

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trex

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May 15, 2011
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air vents?
 

acm2000

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Sep 20, 2015
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on closer inspection after a charge that area is the only bit that gets slightly warm, so im guessing thats where the controller for the battery is and theyre air vents as you suspected
 

SpezElec

Pedelecer
Aug 31, 2015
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It depends on how you're using your bike and how it's set up I suppose.

I can get 20 miles out of my BBS02 48v 25A with the PAS always on level 5 (100%). Although my 'Keep Current' is programmed at 80%, so this saves a tiny bit on juice, but not much.

The display was on one bar and the battery BMS hadn't cut-off, so a few more miles might have been squeezed out.
BTW, this was a test to see how the unit stood up to hard riding. I take it much easier on a normal ride out, to protect the drive-train.

We're talking 20 miles of caning the unit to the max, so if one were to use a more conservative setting and ride leisurely, then I see no reason why the distance couldn't be doubled.

As I say, it really depends on how you ride the bike, how the controller's programmed, hills and gearing etc...
Fordulike,how can set up Keep Current program and what its purpose?

Thanks
 

Fordulike

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Fordulike,how can set up Keep Current program and what its purpose?

Thanks
Apologies for the delayed response SpezElec.

I'll try to keep it simple and add some examples.

The 'Keep Current' can be adjusted by using a programming cable and Bafang's programming software.

I got my cable from here:

http://www.empoweredcycles.com/products/usb-programming-cable-8fun-bbs02-mid-drive-motor

It works with both the BBS01 and BBS02 kits and is fairly simple to set up.
I can confirm the programming software works with Windows 10 too.

It allows you to adjust basic settings:

Basic.jpg

Pedal assist settings:

Pedal Assist.jpg

and throttle settings. I haven't got a screen shot of this menu as I don't use a throttle.


Your controller will have different settings to the ones in the screen shots. I was just playing about with different settings, to see how each one affects how the bike rides.

The 'Keep Current' basically ramps down the current to a percentage level of the PAS mode that the bike is in. This kicks in a few seconds after starting pedalling. This, I believe, it is an attempt by Bafang to help protect the motor and controller from over heating. It means that the unit will provide more amps for starting from a standstill, then ramp them down to the 'Keep Current' setting, for controller longevity.

Take an example from the 'Basic' screen shot above.

As you can see, even though the controller is a BBS02 25A unit, you can also limit the total amps that the controller will provide. In this case I set mine to 18 amps, as I didn't want to fry the controller whilst playing with the settings.

If I were to use PAS 4, then the controller will give me 18 amps x 48 volts x .50 = 432 watts of usable power when starting to pedal.

Then, If my 'Keep Current' setting on the 'Pedal Assist' page was set at 70%, it would ramp that 432 watts of power down to a maximum of 302 watts, once the bike is moving.

If I switched to PAS 9, then I would have 18 amps x 48 volts x 1 = 864 watts when starting to pedal, then it would ramp down to 605 watts max once moving.

I've probably made it all sound a bit more complex than it really is, and if anyone sees any mistakes in my calculations or facts, then please pipe up.

Once you have played with the settings and see how they affect the way the bike rides, then it becomes easier to understand.

I now have the controller set at it's full amps potential of 25 amps, but the 'Keep Current' is at 80%.
This gives me plenty of starting power, as it will peak at 1200 watts on the highest PAS mode when I start to pedal, but then only give me a max of 960 watts when moving.

This is equivalent of limiting the controller to 20 amps. Better for the controller and battery, than maxing all the settings and creating potential overheating problems for the controller and overloading the battery.
 
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SpezElec

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Aug 31, 2015
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Thanks Fordulike ,that was some reply from an expert.
I have to just digest this iformation.
 

ammp

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Hi,
I've just bought a BBS02 750 and wanted to know where to get a few things: The programming cable (Fordulike's link above http://www.empoweredcycles.com/products/usb-programming-cable-8fun-bbs02-mid-drive-motor has sold out).
A new controller with the upgraded mosfets - mine is the old one K5ECR0F0206. My serial is 1409190703.
A UK sourced battery.
I've just joined this forum so apologies if I'm not going about this the right way! Thanks.
 

Fordulike

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Feb 26, 2010
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Hi,
I've just bought a BBS02 750 and wanted to know where to get a few things: The programming cable (Fordulike's link above http://www.empoweredcycles.com/products/usb-programming-cable-8fun-bbs02-mid-drive-motor has sold out).
A new controller with the upgraded mosfets - mine is the old one K5ECR0F0206. My serial is 1409190703.
A UK sourced battery.
I've just joined this forum so apologies if I'm not going about this the right way! Thanks.
You could try Luna Cycle:

http://lunacycle.com/motors/bafang-mid-drive-and-parts/bafang-bbs02-and-bbshd-programming-cable/

Do you really need a controller with the upgraded FETs?

I've been running my BBS02 with the older FETs, for over 1500 miles without problems. I've increased the 'Keep Current' to 80% too, which means it probably runs hotter than standard.

The trick to controller/motor longevity is to always have the bike in the correct gear. Keep motor revs high and no labouring the motor in a high gear ;)

Oh, and make sure you use brake cut-offs. You don't want the motor to run on as you brake hard.
Instant recipe for broken controller and motor internals.
 
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ammp

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You could try Luna Cycle:

http://lunacycle.com/motors/bafang-mid-drive-and-parts/bafang-bbs02-and-bbshd-programming-cable/

Do you really need a controller with the upgraded FETs?

I've been running my BBS02 with the older FETs, for over 1500 miles without problems. I've increased the 'Keep Current' to 80% too, which means it probably runs hotter than standard.

The trick to controller/motor longevity is to always have the bike in the correct gear. Keep motor revs high and no labouring the motor in a high gear ;)

Oh, and make sure you use brake cut-offs. You don't want the motor to run on as you brake hard.
Instant recipe for broken controller and motor internals.
Thank you for your good advice. I'll order the programming cable and keep the controller as it is for now then. The kit came with hydraulic brake cutoffs. All I need now is the battery and I'll get it going. Can't wait to try it.