ebike kit advice needed

D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
The grey wire wouldn't do anything if it shorted other than stop the controller from giving power. The red wire is interesting though because it gets its power from the 5v regulator, which can only give about 100 miliamps, so, if shorted, it would blow that regulator. It wouldn't get enough power to melt it, so maybe it's shorted to something else that's live. The 5v regulator looks like a transistor. It stands on three legs just behind the big resistor.

s12s.jpg
 

flying-chase

Pedelecer
Sep 25, 2013
56
0
Letchworth uk
Th red wire has a single melt mark on it about 2 cm from where it joins the board. I can only assume it was touching something else. Two likely suspects are the small cap (furthest from your arrow) or the brown two legged object.

I have emailed BMS, just wait and see wait for their response. Still not sure what I did wrong. If I was responsible?
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
I think those crazing marks are a sign that the tin/lead coating melted. It's fairly clear that something has shorted somewhere for whatever reason.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
I used a Conhismotor controller with my GNG. It went backwards so I reversed a couple of phase wires. I think that the S12S has automatic phase and hall sequence detection, so it should be colour to colour.
 

flying-chase

Pedelecer
Sep 25, 2013
56
0
Letchworth uk
Well I tried that but it wasnt happy and now it has a short circuit again with one of the phases dead again. How should a self learning system be set up to learn?
 
D

Deleted member 4366

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What did you do to get power, and how did you know that you had it?
 

flying-chase

Pedelecer
Sep 25, 2013
56
0
Letchworth uk
I replaced the four FETs and had power to the lcd and motor turned/juddered. But no proper movement, so changed phase writes and then started to change hall combinations and phase. 5A fuse blew after half an hour and now I have a short again between ground and live. I think FETs have blown on the yellow phase now.
 

flying-chase

Pedelecer
Sep 25, 2013
56
0
Letchworth uk
I replaced the 4 FETs and LCD was then lit and motor jerked. But no self learning and started to do phase wire and then hall combo. After about 20 minutes 5A fuse blew and now ground and live are shorted again.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

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Did you order one of those ebike testers to test the motor?
 

flying-chase

Pedelecer
Sep 25, 2013
56
0
Letchworth uk
Hi d8veh,
I bought another controller from BMS. Seems to be a better build quality to the first one.

However I don't seem to have any success here either.

Using a tester, I have checked motor, controller and throttle, all seem fine. When I check the phases I have rotating lights which are correct and have the nearest LCDs in the rotation also faintly glow. I assume this is because its a sine wave controller.

When everything is connected (using tester) and I use the throttle I seem to lose all power after a few seconds. It doesn't matter if throttle is only on a 1/4 or WOT.

I have connected everything up, made sure wheel speed sensor is connected and on rear wheel and I get rough forward motion for a few seconds and then nothing. I have gone though the hall/phase wire combo and either got no rotation or rough forward or back, but nothing smooth. I'm missing the obvious but what? I have left the two "short circuited" wires coming out of the controller as is.

Any suggestions and insight greatly appreciated.

What settings would you recommend for C and P?

thanks
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
I'm away from home at the moment. This is a S12S controller? If so, have a search on Endless-sphere. I think a guy there had a similar problem. There was a long thread about it. He solved it in the end.
 

flying-chase

Pedelecer
Sep 25, 2013
56
0
Letchworth uk
I have had a look on ES, but don't seem to have found any with the same problem. I still get only 3 good combinations of phase and hall, but they all seem rough and power cuts out after a few seconds. Does the slcd3 and s12s work with both 60 and 120 degree halls? The tester indicates that the gng motor is 120 degree.
 

flying-chase

Pedelecer
Sep 25, 2013
56
0
Letchworth uk
Hi d8veh,
thanks for your help tonight.


I found this regarding P5 is power monitoring mode, when P5 setting is 0, the power monitoring is the "real-time voltage" mode. Namely, it is the
method to determine the battery capacity based on real-time
battery voltage. When P5 equals to a specified parameter, the power monitoring is the "smart power" mode (this parameter is determined by the battery characteristics, ordinary 24V lithium is generally is
4-11, 36V lithium is between 5_15). P5 setting ranges from 0-15

http://www.szktdz.com/uploadfile/download/f/1/10_1373788496.pdf

Parameter C2 seems to be concerned with the phases of the motor so C0 is a normal phase??? I haven't yet found out what the other phase/codes are.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Just in case yours is set to 1, P4 has to be set to zero for the throttle to work. C4 goes with it, and has to also be set to zero.

Make sure C8 (motor temperature) is set to zero (off).

I can't figure out what C2 is about, but I don't think that it's phase angle.
 

flying-chase

Pedelecer
Sep 25, 2013
56
0
Letchworth uk
I'll try again tonight. Just had a response from China. Phase selection is not automatic. I've asked how to change. I see that you can add an extra shunt and that there are places on the board that seem to be were you can add jumpers. So we'll wait and see.