Electrical fault with Torq

[MatthewB]

Hello everyone. I hope someone can help, I seem to have done something to the electrical system on my eZee Torq, the power will not come on anymore. I have to admit that I left the ignition key turned to 'on' when charging, which you are not supposed to do. I have had a look at the fuse that sits inside the battery but this looks fine. I understand that there is another fuse internally - is this correct? Any advice appreciated.
I did try the modification to de-restrict the bike but as this didn't work I put the wires back as before so I don't think this is the problem.

Thanks

Matthew

 

[Lloyd]

The outside fuse is on the charger output circuit, the interior fuse is on the charger input circuit. It has been a while since I have worked on an Ezee battery but I think if your input fuse had gone then you would still get an output unless the battery was below the minimum cut off point. The only thing that would happen is that the charger would turn straigh to green and fail to charge.

 

[Lloyd]

From the last time you used it to when it didnt work what things did you change? Did you do the derestriction mod and then have it working again or was that done in the gap in between?

 

[flecc]

I've often accidentally left the key switched on while charging my eZee bikes and it's never done any harm.

Is your the Torq 1 (rigid forks) or Torq 2 (sprung forks)?
.

 

[MatthewB]

I tried the derestrict mod (unwrapping the wires and plugging them into each other) well over a year ago. It just restricted the top speed to about 11MPH so I unplugged them and wrapped them up. After that the bike worked normally but then about 2 months later it started to cut out. After a while this got worse but there is no way they are touching - they are probably as well insulated from each other as from the factory. If I plug in there is nothing (the front lamp won't even power up which it did for a while if it was connected to the charger.) Light on charger goes straight to green.

 

[Cyclezee]

Hi Matthew,

One question, how old is the battery?

J hn

 

[Bigbee]

Some one else posted about this problem a while back.He solved it by taking the battery out and hitting it with a hammer gently around the casing.If at first it doesnt work he suggested that its possible to hit it harder.

 

[flecc]

Yours is the Torq 2 then Matthew, later ones were set for maximum 15 mph derestricted and the restrict connector reducing that to about 11 mph. That restrict connector wouldn't be causing this fault.

If the charger light also goes straight to green when attempting charging with the battery off the bike, it's quite possible the battery is at fault, especially as you were suffering power cutouts previously.

Can you let us know the age of the battery, and also mention your area, since there may be another eZee bike user near you whose battery you could try.

P.S. Crossed with Aldby's post.
.

 

[rog_london]

Some one else posted about this problem a while back.He solved it by taking the battery out and hitting it with a hammer gently around the casing.If at first it doesnt work he suggested that its possible to hit it harder.

Oh, come on - April 1st was last week......

Rog.

 

[Andy Grayland]

Is the Red LED on the control box on? If not try disconnecting the ignition switch and use a multimeter to see if the ignition switch is working. If not remove the rubber sleeve on the back of the ignition barrel and check the soldering. Sometimes the wires come off the switch when the wiring is moved around. If the LED on the controller is on is it flashing and how many time?
The other common fault is the contact on the bottom of the battery need cleaning or “pinching” together.
The restrict link is works like this
If the motor is a 200rpm motor then the controller is factory set to derestrict so if you join the wires it goes slower.
If the motor is a 250rpm motor then restricted gives 15mph and derestricted about 18.5. So the link is set to restricted.
The Torq has been made with both types of motor in the past, as has the Forza, Cadence and Sprint. I think I am correct in saying that if the wire going into the motor is black then it is a 250rpm (or even a 300rpm)motor. If the wire is grey it is a 200rpm motor. If you wanted to derestrict a bike with a 200rpm motor you just need to change the motor or motor wheel.
Andy
OnBike

 

[fishingpaul]

Do you get any lights on the controller when the power is switched on,unless there is a red light or a green flashing diagnostic light at the controller i would advise buying a multi meter without one there is really no place to start problem solving from,they are available in most shops that carry a range of tools from around £4.00 for a digital one,at least then you can check if there is power from the battery and begin to eliminate things.

 

[FrankieXu]

Hi Matthew

What I would suggest is to measure the terminal voltage of the battery and see what you get...

Turning "on" the battery while charging shouldn't have affected the battery..

 

[MatthewB]

Thanks flecc and the others who have replied. I might take another look at the battery, not sure about the hammer bit though. I still don't understand where the other fuse is and if I can look to replacing it myself. The fact that the bike started to cut out with more regularity before it failed completely is also strange.

 

[flecc]

I very much doubt it's the internal fuse, but this photo from my Torq website shows where the internal fuse numbered as 6 is positioned on the original batteries:

You haven't responded on the battery age. If you can let me know that, and also the full alpha numeric serial number of the battery (not the type number), I may be able to help further.
.

 

[MatthewB]

flecc
It is TCS0804150002, about 2 years old I think.
Thanks

 

[flecc]

I don't know that one Matthew, it will either be the Sanyo celled one that was briefly used or the li-polymer type that's still current.

Either way these generally last about two years and it looks as though it was made 15th April 2008, so just passing two years old.

Depending on where you are, there may be another eZee bike owner somewhere near you so that you could momentarily try their battery to see if that is the problem. Let us know and we'll check the members map for you to see if anyone is handy.
.

 

[MatthewB]

I don't know that one Matthew, it will either be the Sanyo celled one that was briefly used or the li-polymer type that's still current.

Either way these generally last about two years and it looks as though it was made 15th April 2008, so just passing two years old.

Depending on where you are, there may be another eZee bike owner somewhere near you so that you could momentarily try their battery to see if that is the problem. Let us know and we'll check the members map for you to see if anyone is handy.
.

Hi flecc

I am in the North East, Durham to be precise. If there are any members handy or if you know of a good shop to take the bike to that would be grand.

 

[flecc]

The only member I know of in Durham is Redalpha3 (Pete), but he hasn't posted since late 2007, but did have an eZee bike. Unfortunately he hasn't provided an email address, but as a long shot you could try a PM on the offchance that he might visit the site still. This link shows the PM message form to him.

I don't know a suitable dealer near there, but others might.
.