Ezee Sprint - Replacement Controller Wiring

[jeckp]

Hi. Can anybody out there in ebike land help please?

I’ve just bought a non-running 3 speed Ezee Sprint (I just can’t resist those “spare or repair adverts”!) and found the original controller had fried internally. Having established an original replacement would cost me a second mortgage, I bought a pattern replacement from ecrazyman.

I’ve figured out the wiring for the 3 phase and Hall wires to the motor as well as the power supply, including the additional thin red wire that comes out of the new controller that I’ve been assured by ecrazyman should be joined up to the thick red power supply wire which I’ve done. However, I’m at a loss to know what to do with the remaining 5 wires to the handlebars, for the throttle and brakes.

At the controller end, I have one 5 pin connector to the harness leading to my handlebar meter switch with red, yellow, blue, green and pink wires. The original controller had output wires coloured white, blue, green, black and red connected to the harness as follows:

Red to red (great!), blue to blue (fantastic!) green to green (how easy is this?) then white (controller) to pink (harness) and black (controller) to yellow (harness), now starting to get a bit tricky!

Just to confuse matters further, the new controller has the following 5 wires out: red, green and black (for the throttle) and yellow and black (for the brake - connecting turns off the power to the motor it seems).

I’ve tried continuity tests between harness and throttle and brake connectors on the opposite side of the switch to see which harness wires were connected to which coloured wire on the brake switches (red and black wires) and wires to the throttle (red, green and black) and with the switch ‘on’, got positive connections between:-

Throttle (red) and harness (pink) which was connected to old controller (white).

Throttle (green) and harness (blue) which was connected to old controller (blue).

Throttle (black) and harness (yellow) which was connected to old controller (black).

…. (hope you’re still with me!)….

Brake switch (red) and harness (green) which was connected to old controller (green).

Brake switch (black) and harness (yellow) which was connected to old controller (black).

… and only get a few faint positives between old controller wire (red) connected to harness (red) and any other wires on the throttle or brake.

So, I’m now wondering about the equivalence between new and old controller wiring:

Are the red and green wires on the old controller equivalent to the red and green on the new controller?

Is the black on the old controller equivalent to either of the 2 black ones on the new and if so which?

What’s the equivalence between the yellow (one of the brake connectors) on the new controller and the blue or white on the old controller?
.. or perhaps there is no correlation at all (aaaargh!)

I’m tempted to bypass the switch and harness and try to connect the red, green and black from the new controller to the red, green and black to the throttle. Also connecting the black and red wires from the brake switches to the black and yellow on the controller (black to black) .. but that means I won’t have those nice flashing lights on the switch which I presume will tell me when the battery’s going flat?

I’d really appreciate any help you guys or gals can offer. I’m beginning to go mad trying to figure it out!

Thanks in anticipation.

P.S. There aren’t any rules about postings being too long are there?

 

[aaannndddyyy]

Hi I have used an Ecrazyman controller 48v 28a with an ezee sprint motor the wiring worked out to be
Controller Motor
Blue Yellow
Yellow Blue
Green Green
Hull wires
Red Red
Black Black
Green Blue
Yellow Yellow
Blue Green
I spent 2 weeks trying to do what you are trying and gave up, got a normal throttle without lights and standard brake cutouts levers in the end color codes matched.
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/1664-modded-sprint.html
Hope that helps Good luck

 

[jeckp]

Some success

Many thanks for the fast response aaannndddyyy.
Having seen your reference to "2 weeks" I decided to rip out the switch unit, connecting the controller directly to the throttle and brake switches and got a result! The motor spins when I turn the throttle, getting faster as I open the throttle further and stops when I put on the brake.

However, while something in the motor is clearly spinning, the front wheel doesn't actually rotate. If anything, as I start to turn on the throttle, the wheel seems to start rotating (ever so slightly - a mm or so) in the wrong direction but there's no real torque getting to the wheel even at full throttle.

I'm just about to open up the hub to see if I can find a problem with the drive mechanism.

P.S. I like the sound of your uprated Sprint. I might have a go at that myself if I ever get mine going at all though I'm pleased to actually get something happening!

Cheers.

 

[Straylight]

sounds like you need to take the motor housing apart to find out why the orbital gears aren't engaging with the drive teeth inside the case, if I remember the internal structure corectly from when I looked at Flecc's website.

 

[flecc]

The old Sprint motor is very different from the Bafang one shown on my website. Here's a photo of the Sprint motor's gears:

 

[jeckp]

More Progress

Having removed the motor from the hub and run it on the bench, I realised it was rotating in the hub the wrong way so effectively freewheeling, but very fast!

So I rewired the 3 phase and hall motor wires according to aaannndddyyy (and not aligning like colour with like) and the motor ran in the correct direction, this time actually turning the wheel. I'm beginning to learn something about chinese wiring

Many thanks aaannndddyyy, I owe you a pint next time you're in the Derby area! ... and thanks to the other contributors Flecc and Stray Light. What a helpful bunch of e-bikers!

 

[piotrmacheta]

I have a 2nd ezee kit and the controller doesn't work (but an electrical person is trying to fix it for me). I saw your note about using a ecrazyman controller with the ezee hub. Where can I get one of these from and will it make the hub go faster? The ezee system I have only goes 15mph and flecc has advised that I can't de-restrict the ezee controller so maybe a new controller will do it. Ideally I would like to go 20mph or more.

 

[jeckp]

Controller Source

Hi Piotrmacheta.
If you search for "300283998807" on ebay you'll see the controller I bought which has the same characteristics as the original.

If you check out the postings here from aaannndddyyy, you'll see that he has uprated his Sprint by fitting a bigger battery and associated controller.

If you view ecrazyman's other items on ebay, you'll see some of the higher rated controllers .. but I have no experience of upgrading in such a way.

Good luck

 

[piotrmacheta]

Thanks jeckp. I bought the higher voltage ecrazyman controller (48V, 600W, 30A) but have some problems getting it to work (see aaannndddyyy's modded sprint posting).
Can you help? I connected it all up as per andy's wiring colours (you got yours to work this way) but I didn't know how to connect up the throttle. The new controller has throttle wires red, green and black. I have 2 throttles from the ezee kit - a 3 wire throttle with same wire colours and a 6 wire throttle via the battery monitor with yellow, black, blue, white, green and red going to the old controller. This throttle has 5 wires (I think) going into the battery monitor.
If I connect like colours up from either throttle to controller, it doesn't work. What type of throttle did u use and what wire colours did you connect to the new controller. To be honest I don't know how the throttle works but with only 3 wires it can't be too hard to sort but I'm worried about just trying wires in case I blow something up.
Help appreciated, thanks, Peter.

 

[jeckp]

Controller Wiring

Hi Peter.
After trying to figure out the meter wiring myself (and failing!), I bypassed the meter, wiring the only three (red, green and black) wires from my throttle directly to the wires of the same colour on the "controller" connector.

I also wired the two brake switches directly to the yellow and black wires from the controller, again bypassing the meter which is no longer fitted to the bike. This makes the wiring around the handlebars much tidier and the bike runs fine.

I'd read other comments about how relatively useless the battery meter was so will now rely on the performance of the battery, and knowledge of how many miles travelled since the last recharge, to indicate when it needs another charge. It's also one less component to worry about failing!.

If you DO persevere and figure out the meter wiring, you may want to post here for others to use. I'm sure we won't be the only ones to come across this problem!

Cheers, Jon.