First time E bike rider in Australia with non working very neglected 4yo Aseako Sport (Tonaro)

[flyingeric62]

Hi everyone, I've just bought my first ever Ebike.
Am 56 and on a disability pension so could never afford a new one but saw this non working bike advertised for $80 and thought it might be fun to tinker with and get going.

Hoping people may be able to give some advice on getting it going again, so here are the details.

As far as I can tell it was built in 2013 according to what it says on the motor controller.
The bike is called Aseako Sport here in Australia and it has the Tonaro mid drive motor (marked as 250W) with 8 speed Shimano Alivio derailleur gears.
Front suspension is marked Zoom 550 and seems to be a budget type of sprung fork setup. No rear suspension at all on this model.
Has front and rear Tektro disc brakes.

I'm not great with mechanical things but do have a tiny bit of knowledge about electronics, but nothing to do with Ebikes so far.

As mentioned the bike is not a goer and at first look I can see the following issues:

1. Front forks have some rust. Not sure if this can be removed or more likely they have to be replaced?
2. The sensors (reed switches) on the brake handles have broken off (were only held on by one screw into plastic) but are still wired up so could be glued back on or a big washer put over the screw to hold them I guess?
3. front light and both mudguards are missing.
4. Slight amount of play where the crank axle goes through. Might be able to be tightened up or do bearings need replacing?
5. There is some sort of device (speed sensor) mounted on the rear frame very near to the spokes, but nothing on the spokes themselves. I'm guessing there should be a magnet someone has removed?
6. Light rust on chain and sprockets.
7. Top of the plastic battery box is slightly cracked where the (missing) rack would have been bolted on.
8. Battery (and BMS) has been removed. Owner told me he removed it and threw it out after finding out it no longer charged after leaving the bike uncharged in the garage for over a year.
Top of the box has a sticker saying it used to have a Samsung 36V 10ah battery. I assume if it had a BMS it would have been part of the battery pack he removed.

So, to begin with I looked up the cost of a replacement battery and the seller here is asking $699 for the 15ah version I would like. (Why 15ah and not 10ah? It's a 60km return trip to town from here and I'm hoping I could sometimes do that trip) It looks like this is the complete unit with plastic case and rack on top.

This is way out of my price range so I thought I'd either have a go at building a pack or simply buy a pack from China on Ebay and fit it into the old plastic case. It looks like it would cost me almost as much to buy cells and make one up so I figure the easy and quick solution is to just buy a 36V 15ah pack ready made if I can find one the right size/shape to fit the box.

Having not had an Ebike before, I have no idea however if these sort of packs already have a BMS inside them? I assume they would as otherwise how would I attach one now? This is the one I found which might (just!) fit into the box. and it's about $275 inc postage which is about all I can afford right now anyway. I have messaged the seller asking if it has a BMS inside and am awaiting a reply as it's Sunday here right now. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/112747714259?ul_noapp=true
The connectors are wrong but I think I have some in my junk box somewhere and can change those.

Oh, almost forgot to mention, it also came with a hand throttle which was never fitted, but goes on the left handlebar as the gear shifter is on the right.

Any thoughts and tips much appreciated!

 

[flyingeric62]

 

[Nealh]

Before wasting any money on a battery sort out the crank play issue first, if not it will only get worse. If not repairable really not worth spending more money as one day it will seize/totally fail on you.

 

[flyingeric62]

Before wasting any money on a battery sort out the crank play issue first, if not it will only get worse. If not repairable really not worth spending more money as one day it will seize/totally fail on you.

The play is only very, very slight. Not noticeable at all unless I grab the crank with my hands and forcibly wiggle it sideways.
Is it a simple matter of tightening it somehow or will there be some sort of bearing I have to replace? Please excuse my lack of knowledge. I've not pulled a bicycle apart before.

 

[Fat Rat]

Hi welcome
Good luck with your project

 

[flecc]

Welcome to the forum, we've had a few Tonaro owners in the past so they may be able to help. I understand some had crank gear problems but don't know the details.

You may find this August post of mine useful.

Also this post about a battery solution.
.

 

[Nealh]

The Tonaro drive/crank isn't a standard looking set up so what bearings are involved you won't know until it is dismantled/removed to have a look, looks like you or someone will have to get the spanners out as to speak.
The play may be within limits of manufacturing and not to much to worry about then esp if there is no grinding or unevenness in their rotation.

Test the motor works by connecting up an SLA battery, though you may need three wired in series to get the voltage. Beg ,steal or borrow as the saying goes so not to waste good money on a new battery in case motor or controller are faulty.

The $80 dollars tag may mean it is a pile of junk if the motor doesn't work ,but if it does then you may have got a good bargain.

 

[wheeliepete]

The crank is all part of the gearbox,reduction assembly on that motor, so nothing like an ordinary bike. With the chain removed, turn the crank and feel for any tight spots or roughness. Looking on ebay.au your not exactly spoilt for chose with battery packs. I have doubts you will find a pack to fit that case and as you say OEM is silly money.
https://www.aseakoelectricbikes.com.au/product/samsung-36v-15ah-battery/
An easier option may be to remove the case completely and find a waterproof container you can fix in it's place and put a brick pack and the controller in. The pack in your link is cheap, but you do get what you pay for with batteries. From a quick search on google lots to read up on that drive unit, and if your bike is 2015, it should have the modified and improved clutch asembly.

 

[flyingeric62]

Hi everybody, sorry for the long delay in replying. Firstly, thank you all for your replies and helpful advice. I have had some health problems that took priority (heart) but am now reasonably OK and back to have another go at this project.

Here's where it's at so far.
1. I sent a video of the play to Aseako and they say it's probably within spec and still OK.
2. I have purchased the cheap 36v 15AH battery as in my link above from Ebay for $269, and am very pleased to find it fits perfectly!
Only minor problem is the connectors are different but I will change those (once I figure out what they are called and where to get them). lol
3. Bought a new spoke mounted magnet also from Ebay as it was missing from my bike.
4. Have temporarily fitted it all together and it seems to run just fine except the chain jumps the sprockets and so I'd say both the chain and front and rear sprockets require replacing as they do look rather worn.
5. Have just ordered a new chain online. It should arrive in a few weeks. I splurged and went for a German made Wippermann Connex 8SE as it seems to be made very well and I have read reviews online saying they can take the strain of a mid mount motor very well with minimal stretching.
6. Need advice now please on the replacement sprockets.
I'm guessing it has the original 8 Shimano sprockets on the back (the derailleur is a Shimano Alivio) and the single (42T, five bolt) chainring on the front.
Aseako don't seem to sell a 42T, only a 48T and this is out of stock according to the website.

Spare Parts Archives - Aseako Electric Bikes

www.aseakoelectricbikes.com.au

My area is very hilly so I'm thinking it may be best to stick to 42T anyway.
Is there a particular type or make I should go for?
Also should I get a "narrow/wide" one to replace the standard original at the front?
I read that they help keep the chain aligned better and from coming off.

Where is a good online place to get such parts at a good price?

Any and all advice from owners with experience much appreciated!
Once I get these bits I hope to have this bike on the road in 2-3 weeks if all goes well.

 

[vfr400]

Rear sprockets are standard. You can get them from any bike shop, Ebay, Amazon, etc. There are two types - free-hub and free-wheel. You need to identify which type you have before considering a replacement. seven or fewer gears is probably free-wheel and eight or more is probably free-hub. From the back of my mind, your gears are Shimano Acera, so that means a direct replacement would be a Shimano Acera cassette with however many speeds you have. You need the special tool to remove it, which you can get from Ebay, etc. The free-wheel tool is slightly different to the free-hub one, so make sure you get the right one. Listings can be confusing because they often call free-hub gear removal tools cassette removal tools. Cassette is the more colloquial term for free-hub gears. Free-wheel gears are normally called freewheels, but there's a lot of crossover with the word cassette, since both types of gear cluster are gears in a cassette.

I can't help on the front one. I can't remember whether it's a special one or a standard 5 fixing one. You'll have to remove it and show us.

Removing the spoke magnet releases the 15 mph speed limit. The speed sensor provides no useful function other than to make the bike comply with EN15194.

The brake switches are simple switches that go on when you apply the brake. The system will work without them as long as the wires don't short, which is the same as switching on. There's a bit of motor run-on after you stop pedalling, so the switches are necessary to stop the motor from powering when you're braking.

If you get everything sorted and are happy with the bike, it might be worth upgrading the controller to a Kunteng with LCD. These controllers have power algorithms that are much better suited to crank-drive bikes like yours, and you get an LCD with 5 power levels and all the functions of a bike computer. Cost would be about $100 (Au).

 

[flyingeric62]

Hi welcome
Good luck with your project

Thanks.

 

[flyingeric62]

Welcome to the forum, we've had a few Tonaro owners in the past so they may be able to help. I understand some had crank gear problems but don't know the details.

You may find this August post of mine useful.

Also this post about a battery solution.
.

Thanks, lots of good info there.

 

[flyingeric62]

Hi everybody, sorry for the long delay in replying. Firstly, thank you all for your replies and helpful advice. I have had some health problems that took priority (heart) but am now reasonably OK and back to have another go at this project.

Here's where it's at so far.
1. I sent a video of the play to Aseako and they say it's probably within spec and still OK.
2. I have purchased the cheap 36v 15AH battery as in my link above from Ebay for $269, and am very pleased to find it fits perfectly!
Only minor problem is the connectors are different but I will change those (once I figure out what they are called and where to get them). lol
3. Bought a new spoke mounted magnet also from Ebay as it was missing from my bike.
4. Have temporarily fitted it all together and it seems to run just fine except the chain jumps the sprockets and so I'd say both the chain and front and rear sprockets require replacing as they do look rather worn.
5. Have just ordered a new chain online. It should arrive in a few weeks. I splurged and went for a German made Wippermann Connex 8SE as it seems to be made very well and I have read reviews online saying they can take the strain of a mid mount motor very well with minimal stretching.
6. Need advice now please on the replacement sprockets.
I'm guessing it has the original 8 Shimano sprockets on the back (the derailleur is a Shimano Alivio) and the single (42T, five bolt) chainring on the front.
Aseako don't seem to sell a 42T, only a 48T and this is out of stock according to the website.

Spare Parts Archives - Aseako Electric Bikes

www.aseakoelectricbikes.com.au

My area is very hilly so I'm thinking it may be best to stick to 42T anyway.
Is there a particular type or make I should go for?
Also should I get a "narrow/wide" one to replace the standard original at the front?
I read that they help keep the chain aligned better and from coming off.

Where is a good online place to get such parts at a good price?

Any and all advice from owners with experience much appreciated!
Once I get these bits I hope to have this bike on the road in 2-3 weeks if all goes well.

Rear sprockets are standard. You can get them from any bike shop, Ebay, Amazon, etc. There are two types - free-hub and free-wheel. You need to identify which type you have before considering a replacement. seven or fewer gears is probably free-wheel and eight or more is probably free-hub. From the back of my mind, your gears are Shimano Acera, so that means a direct replacement would be a Shimano Acera cassette with however many speeds you have. You need the special tool to remove it, which you can get from Ebay, etc. The free-wheel tool is slightly different to the free-hub one, so make sure you get the right one. Listings can be confusing because they often call free-hub gear removal tools cassette removal tools. Cassette is the more colloquial term for free-hub gears. Free-wheel gears are normally called freewheels, but there's a lot of crossover with the word cassette, since both types of gear cluster are gears in a cassette.

I can't help on the front one. I can't remember whether it's a special one or a standard 5 fixing one. You'll have to remove it and show us.

Removing the spoke magnet releases the 15 mph speed limit. The speed sensor provides no useful function other than to make the bike comply with EN15194.

The brake switches are simple switches that go on when you apply the brake. The system will work without them as long as the wires don't short, which is the same as switching on. There's a bit of motor run-on after you stop pedalling, so the switches are necessary to stop the motor from powering when you're braking.

If you get everything sorted and are happy with the bike, it might be worth upgrading the controller to a Kunteng with LCD. These controllers have power algorithms that are much better suited to crank-drive bikes like yours, and you get an LCD with 5 power levels and all the functions of a bike computer. Cost would be about $100 (Au).

Ah OK. I have been wondering why I see the rear sprockets called by different names. Had no idea there were different types. I have a comprehensive tool set I was given as a gift, and when I first got the new battery I did try to undo the rear sprockets but could not budge it.



It says Shimano Alivio on the Derailleur. What is the difference between that and the Acera you mentioned?



Have had a reply from Aseako saying that they don't know if the front chain wheel is anything out of the ordinary, but that they have both a larger 48 tooth as well as standard 42 tooth available on their website.
They have five bolt fixing. When searching for chain wheels online, I notice some are described as aluminium, but mine seems to be steel? I'm guessing steel would be more durable when used with an electric motor?
Oddly, I can only find the 48 tooth on the Aseako Electric Bikes site, so have replied today letting them know the 42 tooth is not there to be found on the website.



I probably should leave the magnet on then in order to avoid a possible fine from the police then? Laws vary from one state to the next I believe?
I'm in the state of NSW.



The brake switches are working, although the plastic is cracked and they were attached in position by the previous owner with some electrical tape. I have a tube of some of that UV light activated glue type of stuff, which from past experience seems to hold plastic fairly well, so I am going to see if that will do the job of reattaching them so I can remove the tape. Might try it on the cracked battery case as well.



Thanks for the tip about the controllers. Having various computer functions would be nice.
Are these the type you are talking about? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/36-48V-250-350-500W-Electric-Bicycle-Scooter-9-Mosfet-Sine-Wave-Controller-LCD/153561528719?hash=item23c0faf98f:m:m_6Ss3SfSzw0GXXPpIJ7-2w



I like that they have "cruise control". That might help me to keep my battery consumption fairly similar on repeat trips to the same destination and make it at least a little predictable.
All going well, in time I hope to be able to use it for regular commutes to my local shopping centre which is 27km each way, and with an extremely steep hill at my home end!

 

[Nealh]

We would need to see a close up pic of the rear sprockets/wheel to see which type it is.
The 9 fet controller (KT) is a good choice esp where amb temps can get warm, you may want to try and mount it so that it gets some airflow over it.

Most basic lower level spec Shimano chain wheels are steel with some aluminium minor parts.

 

[vfr400]

The 9FET controller is most likely too big to fit in the compartment at the front of your battery, so you have to find somewhat else to put it. Also, you must make sure that your battery can deal with the extra current. Lastly, the extra current might damage the motor's gears. I wouldn't go higher than 18 amps. You can reduce the current in the servings or not use level 5.

Cruise control on such a bike is completely useless and dangerous. You get much better control by using the normal pedal sensor function.

 

[flyingeric62]

We would need to see a close up pic of the rear sprockets/wheel to see which type it is.
The 9 fet controller (KT) is a good choice esp where amb temps can get warm, you may want to try and mount it so that it gets some airflow over it.

Most basic lower level spec Shimano chain wheels are steel with some aluminium minor parts.

We would need to see a close up pic of the rear sprockets/wheel to see which type it is.
The 9 fet controller (KT) is a good choice esp where amb temps can get warm, you may want to try and mount it so that it gets some airflow over it.

Most basic lower level spec Shimano chain wheels are steel with some aluminium minor parts.

When my new chain arrives in the post I will take the rear wheel off and take a pic to post here. I'll have another attempt at undoing the sprockets and if I have no luck will take it to a bike shop for them to do. I'm trying to do as much as I can myself, partly as I don't have much money but also as I want to learn the skills to be able to do it anyway.


Ambient temperatures here are pretty mild being on the coast. Do the original controllers have overheating issues as they are inside that plastic box in front of the battery? It is very humid here though, so corrosion is a constant issue because of this. Every year on council clean up day there are loads of rusted bicycles out on the footpath for collection! Lol

 

[flyingeric62]

The 9FET controller is most likely too big to fit in the compartment at the front of your battery, so you have to find somewhat else to put it. Also, you must make sure that your battery can deal with the extra current. Lastly, the extra current might damage the motor's gears. I wouldn't go higher than 18 amps. You can reduce the current in the servings or not use level 5.

Cruise control on such a bike is completely useless and dangerous. You get much better control by using the normal pedal sensor function.

I guess if I did change the controller I could maybe somehow attach it to the underside of the battery box. Might have to fit a rear mudguard then to protect it from anything being flung off the tyre.


The battery I've bought is not the standard 10ah one, but the 15ah which is the largest that will fit into the original box. I don't want to do anything that will reduce the battery life or damage the motor's gears since they are both rather expensive.

 

[Nealh]

Show a link to the battery yo have bought.
The 9 fet controller is 14a continuous with max 25/26a current if required it is only available in PAS 5 or with throttle use, potentially you will see/get about 700w output from the hub. With the KT setting C5 you can reduce the current supplied by the controller in 8- 10 steps, depending on the controller version of firmware it will reduce current by up to 20% or up to 50%.

The motor will likely be ok as you wouldn't be increasing voltage though current would be up a bit, the important bit would be to give the motor a service if you are able to open it by checking a couple of bearings for wear/play and adding some more grease to the planetary gears if needed.
Again pics of the hub motor would guide us to give you an idea of how to open it, most usually only take 20 - 30 mins to open for a general look and service. Motor wheel simply needs removing from the bike and work can be carried out with the bike wheel complete as is.

 

[flyingeric62]

Show a link to the battery yo have bought.
The 9 fet controller is 14a continuous with max 25/26a current if required it is only available in PAS 5 or with throttle use, potentially you will see/get about 700w output from the hub. With the KT setting C5 you can reduce the current supplied by the controller in 8- 10 steps, depending on the controller version of firmware it will reduce current by up to 20% or up to 50%.

The motor will likely be ok as you wouldn't be increasing voltage though current would be up a bit, the important bit would be to give the motor a service if you are able to open it by checking a couple of bearings for wear/play and adding some more grease to the planetary gears if needed.
Again pics of the hub motor would guide us to give you an idea of how to open it, most usually only take 20 - 30 mins to open for a general look and service. Motor wheel simply needs removing from the bike and work can be carried out with the bike wheel complete as is.

This is the battery I purchased. It fits nice and tight in the original Aseako battery box. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/112747714259?ul_noapp=true
I need to change one of the connectors connecting it to the "discharge port", as the one on the battery is some sort of heavy duty flat connector (can anyone please tell me what they are called and where to get them please?) and the one on the bike is the round "bullet" style. See the pic of the connector on the Ebay listing.



I'm a little confused about your question about the "hub motor". The Aseako is a 250W mid drive bike, so there is no hub motor in the wheel. See the picture of my bike in my second post on this thread.

 

[Nealh]

I'm a little confused about your question about the "hub motor". The Aseako is a 250W mid drive bike, so there is no hub motor in the wheel. See the picture of my bike in my second post on this thread.

My bad a I didn't go back to the start and re read the whole thread again and forgot you had mid drive.