Greenway Cross City

anotherkiwi

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 26, 2015
7,845
5,784
The European Union
You should be able to get it in, 0.6 mm that is just over 2 hundredths of an inch...
 

redcup1999

Pedelecer
Sep 4, 2016
213
126
Bristol
For those who are interested here's what the revised version of the controller looks like, along with the original one on the left. It has blue connectors and is marked up with MAX01B (presumably to indicate the second hardware revision):

IMG_20170313_231341.jpg
 

Ultrafunkula

Pedelecer
Mar 18, 2011
168
114
Bugger - I ordered a 30.9mm based on the info above! Ah well - I'm sure there's another bike somewhere in my garage it will fit!
Yep mine was 30.9 it got slimmed down a bit,as plenty of meat on the one I ordered, going to go for a bit of a ride a little later to see if it's any good.
 

Ultrafunkula

Pedelecer
Mar 18, 2011
168
114
For those who are interested here's what the revised version of the controller looks like, along with the original one on the left. It has blue connectors and is marked up with MAX01B (presumably to indicate the second hardware revision):

View attachment 18176
Wow! where did you get that from Red? Is it 25amp same as original?
 

redcup1999

Pedelecer
Sep 4, 2016
213
126
Bristol
Wow! where did you get that from Red? Is it 25amp same as original?
It should be 25amp same as original, but I assume that there are some internal upgrades to the hardware.
It came from Ewan at eMAX Electrics in Oz.
I blew my first controller through stupidity - let's hope I don't make the same mistake again!
I will hopefully get the chance to hook it up this weekend, along with my 30Q battery pack from Jimmy. I'm hoping that then I will have the bike I want!
 

Ultrafunkula

Pedelecer
Mar 18, 2011
168
114
It should be 25amp same as original, but I assume that there are some internal upgrades to the hardware.
It came from Ewan at eMAX Electrics in Oz.
I blew my first controller through stupidity - let's hope I don't make the same mistake again!
I will hopefully get the chance to hook it up this weekend, along with my 30Q battery pack from Jimmy. I'm hoping that then I will have the bike I want!
Dare I ask how much that cost? I may get one in as a spare and also get the nylon gear, I'm running 22amps and 85% keep current with my 48t chainwheel, gets to places fast and that's with the old battery, I just ignore the battery meter in display and use the one on the battery.. neither the motor or battery are hot after a 10 mile blast.
A favourite is to text the missus I'm leaving a start point , and she just says bleeding ell when I walk through the door. Downside is she's made me buy a helmet.
 
  • :D
Reactions: anotherkiwi

redcup1999

Pedelecer
Sep 4, 2016
213
126
Bristol
Dare I ask how much that cost?
168 AUD - about £108 including shipping (ouch!)
Interesting to hear your settings - I'm going to run stock settings for a week or so to check that the new controller is working without issue before tweaking again.
Looking forward to getting out on it again now the weather is improving!
 

Recy

Pedelecer
Dec 10, 2016
103
17
manchester
Red, what were the settings that caused the controller failure - just for reference.
Ultrafunkula, buddy also now ignores the battery meter in the display and instead relies on the one on the battery. No issues either.
He did have a prob with a stripped seat post clamp thread, replaced it & now all good.
 
Red, what were the settings that caused the controller failure - just for reference.
Ultrafunkula, buddy also now ignores the battery meter in the display and instead relies on the one on the battery. No issues either.
He did have a prob with a stripped seat post clamp thread, replaced it & now all good.
I'm also intrigued what settings you were using the controller popped. Any chance of screen grabs of tabs 1 and 2 from the software?
I'm of the opinion that running the supplied battery at the dialed up settings won't do it much any favors in the longer term. The level of sag experienced is kinda saying something. Not that it'll break the battery necessarily, just its potential lifespan will be reduced. But then I guess that's when you cough up for an uprated battery with few more Ah to boot.
 

redcup1999

Pedelecer
Sep 4, 2016
213
126
Bristol
Red, what were the settings that caused the controller failure - just for reference.
No need to panic - the controller failure was nothing to do with settings, but user stupidity!

I bent some of the pins on the higo connector plugging in the programming lead (the one I was using didn't have a genuine Higo connector). I used a metal scredwriver to straighten the pins - the battery was not fully off the frame but just tilted to the right - turns out that's not enough to prevent 36V flowing through the pins and you get a big spark and a broken controller.

D'Oh
 
No need to panic - the controller failure was nothing to do with settings, but user stupidity!

I bent some of the pins on the higo connector plugging in the programming lead (the one I was using didn't have a genuine Higo connector). I used a metal scredwriver to straighten the pins - the battery was not fully off the frame but just tilted to the right - turns out that's not enough to prevent 36V flowing through the pins and you get a big spark and a broken controller.

D'Oh
Ah, I see. Several schoolboy errors you're unlikely to repeat there then!

And upon hearing the crack/pop, you said " Oh bother"!
 

redcup1999

Pedelecer
Sep 4, 2016
213
126
Bristol
Ah, I see. Several schoolboy errors you're unlikely to repeat there then!

And upon hearing the crack/pop, you said " Oh bother"!
Words to that effect, yes. It was late at night and I suspect my colourful language may have woken the kids :)

Everything is fixable, just could have done without it!

I've now ordered a programming lead with a genuine higo connector to reduce the risk of me bending the pins again.
 

redcup1999

Pedelecer
Sep 4, 2016
213
126
Bristol
My new programming cable arrived from China today - having the genuine Higo connector makes it much easier to connect the cable.

Having read the standard settings from the 1B controller, the only difference is the firmware version is 1.0.0.4 rather than 1.0.0.2 on the orginal and the Maximum Current is only 20Amps rather than 25Amps - arrgh! I was told it was 25Amp before ordering. I doubt I would use the 25Amps anyway, but it would have been nice to have the option given I've splashed out on a 30Q battery pack!

The motor seems to run a bit quieter with this controller, but I could be imagining it.

Don't kill your original controller folks - you might end up with a 20Amp replacement!
 

anotherkiwi

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 26, 2015
7,845
5,784
The European Union
That is still 800 W when the battery is hot off the charger and 720 W at nominal charge! I'm happy with 550 W!
 

Ultrafunkula

Pedelecer
Mar 18, 2011
168
114
My new programming cable arrived from China today - having the genuine Higo connector makes it much easier to connect the cable.

Having read the standard settings from the 1B controller, the only difference is the firmware version is 1.0.0.4 rather than 1.0.0.2 on the orginal and the Maximum Current is only 20Amps rather than 25Amps - arrgh! I was told it was 25Amp before ordering. I doubt I would use the 25Amps anyway, but it would have been nice to have the option given I've splashed out on a 30Q battery pack!

The motor seems to run a bit quieter with this controller, but I could be imagining it.

Don't kill your original controller folks - you might end up with a 20Amp replacement!
I have a feeling the 20amp controller is for the mg33.250 motor same as the guy in Norway who posted his settings on endless sphere and also the guys inOZ who have the max drive with motors stamped as 33.250 .
These greenway are a one off batch with oddball early development motors all made as 350w but labelled additionally with eu compliant 250w restriction. Does your program screen say controller type e.g. HZXT MAX1 or s06 type?
 

redcup1999

Pedelecer
Sep 4, 2016
213
126
Bristol
Mine is different
Curious! I wonder if yours is unique in that respect?

I did a 32.6 mile ride today.

The new controller has completely resolved the issue with the wacky battery gauge - it is far more stable and no longer drops down and then recovers when going up a long steep hill.

Whether this is merely a fix for a display issue or a change in the way power is drawn from the battery I do not know.

Today I had current limit=20Amps, Current Decay=7, Keep current = 60%. Original battery. The bike performed really well and still had 2 bars out of 10 on the display at the end of the ride.

I am tempted to bump up Keep Current to 75% for my next ride and then call it a day with regards to tuning.
 

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