HELP - Bafang Rear wheel not turning after inner tube change ??

[trex]

do you mean your power connector on the KU123 side has 3 wires? then the small wire is for the ignition switch. You don't need to use the small wire from the power connector if you have an LCD.
The LCD will connect the red and blue internally when you switch the LCD on. Without the LCD, you connect the small wire to the 36V red wire on the power connector to turn on the controller.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You have to connect the thin red wire to a battery positive.

 

[bilabonic]

Thanks Dave, i thought so. going to test it now !!!!

UPDATE - Connected the Power (thin red connected to +12v), Hall Sensor and Throttle -

NOTHING !!!!

Allconnections look good, there are two RED wires that come from controller and these are conneted together in little black connecter.

 

[bilabonic]

I'm pretty sure from memory when i blew my last KU123 and bought one of a UK Ebay seller the throttle connections were different BUT i can not find the old thread !!!!

I currently have -

KU123 THROTTLE
red---------------red
black------------green
green------------black

SWAPPED grren and black - and i back in the SAME SITUATION !!!!!

Swapping 3 motor wires -

1. spinning backwards inside hub
2. makes a terrible noise/stalling
3. wheel turns but very slowly drawing big current/no torque at all !!!!
UPPDATE
4. Wheel spins a VERY fast no torque ???

 

[trex]

unplug the throttle and try the pedelec.
the green wire on the throttle connector, controller side, is the signal. It should be matched with the green wire on the throttle side.

 

[bilabonic]

I don't fullu understand what you mean ?
I have no pedelec fitted, just a thimb throttle.....

Situation 4 as above MUST be correct BUT there is NO TORQUE on 'take-off'
before the bike would wheelie when i touched the throttle ??????

Now it 'judders' inside the hub instead of 'taking off' ?

Once its above a certain speed it acts as normal ??

 

[trex]

...
Once its above a certain speed it acts as normal ??

your problem seems to be when the motor is starting up.

is the bike ridable at the moment?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You haven't mentioned the hall sensors at all. Are you using them? If so, are they colour to colour or are the yellow and blue reversed?

 

[bilabonic]

It is rideable but as i say, my old code 10 wheel used to 'lift' the bike in the air when i applied the throttle, this new code 11 stalls/struggles ?

I am using the hall sensor dave, if i disconnect it i just get the motor spinning in reverse.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Did you check the colours?

 

[bilabonic]

Yes, plus thepins/plugs are making connection......Also when it is running it is a LOT louder and noticeable as an electric bike.

What's even more strange is that i removed a spoke off the old wheel (code 10) and it does not fit the code 11 one (there was one missing from new !!!!)

It's about an inch to long !!!!!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The different spoke length must be because one is laced 1-cross and the other 2-cross. Have a look at the spoke pattern.

Lets start from the beginning. The KU123 controller is very reliable - especially with the BPM motor. Normally, we just connect everything colour to colour and it works first time, so that should be the starting point. You shouldn't have to mess about swapping phase wires, so don't do it. It just brings more variables into the problem and risks damage.

Do you have a multi-pin connector at the motor end of the cable? If so, did you try a different lead between that connector and the controller?

 

[bilabonic]

I've tried that Dave, my set-up is basic/simple.

Main +/-12v
3 phase to motor
Hall sensor connection
3 pin throttle
1 pair brake.

It's working all but its NOTHING like before, there is no torque, when i used to tap the thunb throttle the bike would be 'off' pulling a wheelie.......not i can hold it there in place ?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Do your really mean 12v? Maybe an extra 24v would help.

Please check again the colours on the hall sensor connector go green to green, blue to blue and yellow to yellow.

Is there a multipin connector at the motor - the normal 9-pin one? I'm trying to help you, but you're not answering my questions.

 

[bilabonic]

Sorry my bad 36-41v from the battery....

PLUS i really appreciate your help, without you i would not have built it in the first instance.

The connections are SOUND, i have even removed them from the plastic part and directly connected them (i am aware that they can pop out when plugs are connecterd....)

Its fine to ride once your up/going but it's as if there a clutch or something slipping on start up/touch the throttle.

There is no torque on start up......

Plus if you hold the rear wheel of the ground and give it FULL throttle its going a LOT faster than normal ?

It's as if it's just spinning faster and faster, where as before it would alway be a set speed.

Cheers

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Did you check the colours on the hall connector - carefully?

I think you misunderstood my question. Is there a connector about 12" from the motor?

 

[bilabonic]

Yes - 100% !!!!

I have been riding it, but on start up it has a judder/slip ???

I have not fitted the torque arms yet so was thinking it may be the spindle spinning in the drop outs but the the cable would be twisted/tangled !!!

Its like losing an arm not having it going :-(

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Third time of asking: Is there a connector about 12" from the motor?

 

[trex]

do you know how to test the Hall sensors?

 

[Sacko]

May help if you get some pictures up of all the connectors.