Hub drive not working Please help!!!

matbrachad

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 28, 2020
22
4
Hello all thank you for letting me join
I was given a hub drive wheel by a friend with no controller. I bought a controller from eBay but it will only work if the learn cable is connected and even then it seems to run on reverse then you can pull the finger throttle and it will drive forward. If I unplug the learn wire I get no power to the hub. Please help!!!
 

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vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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Basildon
You should hold the axle in the vice, not the nut, otherwise it'll spin the axle and break the cable, which renders the motor scrap.

Connect the self-learning cables and switch on. The self-learning is automatic, so don't touch anything. once the motor starts turning, switch off.

Disconnect the self-learning wires, switch on, and it should work.

Does the controller have wires and connector for a reverse switch?
 

matbrachad

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 28, 2020
22
4
I have tried the above and it only powers the hub if the learn wire is connected as in the video. I may have bought the wrong controller. I have just done the hall sensor test on the hub and it all tests perfect.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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Basildon
During the self-learning, the cpu issues its own instructions to control the motor, and if the motor turns, there's nothing wrong with it.

Outside of the self-learning procedure, the cpu gives instructions to turn the motor after receiving a signal from the throttle or PAS, whilst considering any settings on any control panel and the state of the brake switches.
 

matbrachad

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 28, 2020
22
4
After removing the learn wire I get no power to the motor. When I plug it back together I get the motor running in reverse and if I press the throttle once it will drive forward even after releasing the throttle. If I press the throttle once again it will stop and then Go into reverse again.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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Basildon
Do that again, but this time switch off while the motor is turning forward. Disconnect the self-learning wires and don't connect them again. Now you can switch on again and figure out why you have no power. It'll be something simple, like the throttle connected in the wrong sequence or a brake switch stuck on. You'll probably need a voltmeter to find out what's wrong.

If you need further help from me, you must provide a photo of the controller with all the wires and connectors spread out so that I can see what you've got. Also, I need a picture of what you have on the handlebars regarding switches, throttle and control panel.
 

matbrachad

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 28, 2020
22
4
Hello and thank you for spending your time on this!!
I did it again but the same outcome. I have attached photos as requested. It is on the bench so no brake switches etc.
 

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vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
3,985
Basildon
OK, connect the battery, motor, LCD and throttle. Don't connect the self-learning wires, PAS or brakes.

Make sure that the throttle is connected in the correct sequence - red to red, black to black, and signal to white.

Switch on the LCD and check that you have 5v between the red and black throttle wires, then measure the voltage between the white and black throttle wires while you open the throttle to see that the voltage changes from about 1.2v at no throttle and 3.8v at full throttle.

Please report back your findings. Once we know the throttle is working, we can deal with the LCD settings.
 
Last edited:

matbrachad

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 28, 2020
22
4
Thank you so much I will have to do it tomorrow as at work tonight. Do you have email I can contact you on or should we stay on this platform
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
3,985
Basildon
Ok. That means that its not enabled in the settings.

There are a lot of different versions of software in these controllers, so don't worry if some of these things don't work.

Long press the plus and minus buttons simultaneously to enter parameter setting mode. Short press the power button to cycle through the parameters (P01-P20) (see the parameter list for details).

Find P09 and make sure that it's set to 0. If it has any other value, that's what's caused your problem. setting it to zero will fix it.

If that doesn't fix it, scroll through all the P numbers and write down their values, then show them here. I've had a couple of version of that controller that had some weird settings.
 

matbrachad

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 28, 2020
22
4
Looks like we heading in the right direction thank you it shows 62 mph when full throttle can this be true?
The settings are as follows:-
P01 0003
P02 0001 miles
P03 0036
P04 0000
P05 0000
P06 27.5
P07 0011
P08 0000
P09 0000
P10 0002
P11 0013
P12 0001
P13 0012
P14 0020
P15 0290
P16 mileage
P17 0000
P18 0100
P19 0001
P20 0000
 
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vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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P05 should be 1 if you want 5 power levels instead of 3
P06 is wheel size in inches. You can adjust in 0.1 steps. It affects the speed display accuracy.
P07 = 11 is probably wrong. it influences how the speed is displayed. I can't tell you what it should be because I haven't seen inside your motor. It's the number of magnets times the reduction ratio, so something like 100. Set it to that, then adjust up and down to get the display the same as your actual speed. I guess you're not using a separate speed sensor, in which case the speed will probably go to zero when you're free-wheeling.
P08 is the speed limit in km/h. I think a value of zero is unlimited, but if your motor is still not running, it may be because your speed limit is 0km/h.
P13 is how many magnets you have in your PAS
P14 is the amount of current the controller will give (20 is the max), which might be a bit high. Start at 15. if that's not enough maybe go up to 18.
P15 is the low voltage battery cut-off at 29v. That's a bit low. I'd change it to 31
P16 is the odometer reset. Press and hold the "+" button for 5 secs to rest it to zero.
P18 is another speed display adjustment. You can set anywhere between 50 and 150 which is the percentage adjustment, so at 50%, it'll show half your actual speed.

The rest are correct.

Is it running now?
 
Last edited:

kotafidasa

Just Joined
Jul 5, 2020
2
0
I have tried the above and it only powers the hub if the learn wire is connected as in the video. I may have bought the wrong controller. I have just done the hall sensor test on the hub and it all tests perfect.
I bought a controller from eBay but it will o 192.168.100.1 192.168.1.1 jpg to pdf nly work if the learn cable is connected and even then it seems to run on reverse then you can pull the finger throttle and it will drive forward. If I unplug the learn wire I get no power to the hub. Please help!!!
 
Last edited:

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
3,985
Basildon
I bought a controller from eBay but it will only work if the learn cable is connected and even then it seems to run on reverse then you can pull the finger throttle and it will drive forward. If I unplug the learn wire I get no power to the hub. Please help!!!
List the settings in the LCD P01 to P20, like above.
 

matbrachad

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 28, 2020
22
4
P05 should be 1 if you want 5 power levels instead of 3
P06 is wheel size in inches. You can adjust in 0.1 steps. It affects the speed display accuracy.
P07 = 11 is probably wrong. it influences how the speed is displayed. I can't tell you what it should be because I haven't seen inside your motor. It's the number of magnets times the reduction ratio, so something like 100. Set it to that, then adjust up and down to get the display the same as your actual speed. I guess you're not using a separate speed sensor, in which case the speed will probably go to zero when you're free-wheeling.
P08 is the speed limit in km/h. I think a value of zero is unlimited, but if your motor is still not running, it may be because your speed limit is 0km/h.
P13 is how many magnets you have in your PAS
P14 is the amount of current the controller will give (20 is the max), which might be a bit high. Start at 15. if that's not enough maybe go up to 18.
P15 is the low voltage battery cut-off at 29v. That's a bit low. I'd change it to 31
P16 is the odometer reset. Press and hold the "+" button for 5 secs to rest it to zero.
P18 is another speed display adjustment. You can set anywhere between 50 and 150 which is the percentage adjustment, so at 50%, it'll show half your actual speed.

The rest are correct.

Is it running now?

Hello again
I have now fitted everything to my moms bike and it all works except the most important the Pas I have the setting in P13 set correctly at 12 for the amount of magnets but no joy even after trying all the available settings. I have checked the pas and it seems correct
 

matbrachad

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 28, 2020
22
4
May have put this in the incorrect place!!
Hello again
I have now fitted everything to my moms bike and it all works except the most important the Pas I have the setting in P13 set correctly at 12 for the amount of magnets but no joy even after trying all the available settings. I have checked the pas and it seems correct