It's bloody new and broken!

Underlayunderlay

Pedelecer
Oct 16, 2019
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Leave it charging overnight and then report what it reads tomorrow please

Also worth just double checking that the charger is out putting 42v or very close to it
All looking good KirstinS . Charging at 42v and the battery...that's still on charge... Is 41.8v.

Still learning:rolleyes: . I didn't realise that a loss of 10v would mean no help with peddle assist. This could leave me stranded (no strength to speak of in my right leg) if I attempt a morning out on the bike with max assist. I'll need to take my charger or trade it in and buy a motorbike! ;)
 

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Andy-Mat

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 26, 2018
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All looking good KirstinS . Charging at 42v and the battery...that's still on charge... Is 41.8v.

Still learning:rolleyes: . I didn't realise that a loss of 10v would mean no help with peddle assist. This could leave me stranded (no strength to speak of in my right leg) if I attempt a morning out on the bike with max assist. I'll need to take my charger or trade it in and buy a motorbike! ;)
It is not always practical for some bikes, but for similar reasons and longer trips, I bought a smaller capacity, extra battery, that I carry with me on longer trips. Not just to get me home, but both e-bikes I have bought, when the battery cut off, also cut off the lights. Nasty in the forest and no lights....
So on my first e-bike I simply added extra lights with rechargeable AA cells. I have them also on my current bike as well, and in really dark "situations" I use both together to light up the road ahead....
A personal choice of course.
Andy
 
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Woosh

Trade Member
May 19, 2012
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wooshbikes.co.uk
Some may know that I've just bought an Oxygen mkll s cross and from what I'm experiencing it might be broken?
The battery by has not been below 30v yet but it's got a flashing LCD Square and not responding to peddle assist or the throttle. All contacts look clean and I don't think I've even done 20 miles on it yet...help!!!
did you have to climb a lot of steep hills?
if you don't, then you should return the battery for testing.
20 miles even without pedalling is not enough to drain your battery completely.
 
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vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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All looking good KirstinS . Charging at 42v and the battery...that's still on charge... Is 41.8v.

Still learning:rolleyes: . I didn't realise that a loss of 10v would mean no help with peddle assist. This could leave me stranded (no strength to speak of in my right leg) if I attempt a morning out on the bike with max assist. I'll need to take my charger or trade it in and buy a motorbike! ;)
You have a battery charge-state indicator on the LCD. After a few rides, you'll see how it behaves in relation to how much further you can go. As a guide-line, when it shows half-way down, you're actually 2/3 down because the battery goes down quicker as it becomes empty. It's a bit like water draining out of an inverted conical tank.
 
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Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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All looking good KirstinS . Charging at 42v and the battery...that's still on charge... Is 41.8v.

Still learning:rolleyes: . I didn't realise that a loss of 10v would mean no help with peddle assist. This could leave me stranded (no strength to speak of in my right leg) if I attempt a morning out on the bike with max assist. I'll need to take my charger or trade it in and buy a motorbike! ;)
Charger and charging volatges are good, being new to lithium ebike batteries it is a learning curve so you have to manage the charge and discharge to get the best out of the battery. Once you have cycled the battery a few times you will know your range limits, a second battery to ride with may be necessary.

Don't drain/discharge below 32/33v, don't leave sitting at full charge for too long (days/weeks on end).
Use your multi metre for managing charging as well, if not planning a ride for a day or two don't charge the battery fully but leave it at approx. 38 - 38.5v (storage charge) and then finish the full balance charge 4-6 hours before you need to ride. One way of shortening cell life is to leave cells/battery fully charged, the chemistry doesn't like sitting in a fully charged state as it degrades the cells.
 
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Underlayunderlay

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Oct 16, 2019
37
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did you have to climb a lot of steep hills?
if you don't, then you should return the battery for testing.
20 miles even without pedalling is not enough to drain your battery completely.
I think I'll do a full detailed (strava) test this weekend and post it on here to see if it's me, the hills or nothing at all. I have been using it for quick short rides and putting back on charge for about 4 times in a row.
Not sure what the correct way to charge / use / re charge is?
 

Underlayunderlay

Pedelecer
Oct 16, 2019
37
8
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38 - 38.5v (storage charge) and then finish the full balance charge 4-6 hours before you need to ride. One way of shortening cell life is to leave cells/battery fully charged, the chemistry doesn't like sitting in a fully charged state as it degrades the cells.
Thats great to know Nealh.

I'm going to attempt a test ride this weekend with the strava app just to confirm it's me and not the battery.
I will post it here and you can all laugh at how many miles I dont do!
 

Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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Thats great to know Nealh.

I'm going to attempt a test ride this weekend with the strava app just to confirm it's me and not the battery.
I will post it here and you can all laugh at how many miles I dont do!
It's not about laughing at the lack of miles/range you can manage but might be useful to see why you may not be getting much out of it.
We already know two of the biggest factors.
One is your physical weight and fitness level, the other is use of a higher assist level this demands and uses more current so range is very much compromised.
Batteries can deliver high current and long range but can't deliver both so you have to make compromises, for range use lower assist and lower speed saving the higher current modes for inclines/hills then reduce the assist again once over the incline/hill. On down hill sections use low assist or zero assist as gravity takes over.
If however you are a speed king then you will never get good range unless able to ride above the cut off speed on your own power.
 
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Nealh

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As an indication of range I have a pair of 5 y/o batteries which have lost capacity a bit,
in summer months I can get 30- 35 miles in PAS2, if I up the level to PAS3 ( a bit more current ) range is compromise to about 20/22 miles in winter both are less as lithium doesn't fair as well when temps drop.

You need to find a local circuit for testing and ride the same circuit in low, med and high assist to see the difference in range for the assist levels.
 
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sjpt

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Jun 8, 2018
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It's not about laughing at the lack of miles/range you can manage but might be useful to see why you may not be getting much out of it.
We already know two of the biggest factors.
One is your physical weight and fitness level, the other is use of a higher assist level this demands and uses more current so range is very much compromised.
Batteries can deliver high current and long range but can't deliver both so you have to make compromises, for range use lower assist and lower speed saving the higher current modes for inclines/hills then reduce the assist again once over the incline/hill. On down hill sections use low assist or zero assist as gravity takes over.
If however you are a speed king then you will never get good range unless able to ride above the cut off speed on your own power.
Underlining this, try the Bosch range assistant. https://www.bosch-ebike.com/en/service/range-assistant/ It can't show you exactly what will happen for you, but it does show very clearly the effects of assistance level, speed, hills, weight etc on range. (it would be nice if its 'terrain' settings were a bit clearer). As Nealh says in his next post, for more precise details of your own position
You need to find a local circuit for testing and ride the same circuit in low, med and high assist to see the difference in range for the assist levels.
 
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Underlayunderlay

Pedelecer
Oct 16, 2019
37
8
Dorset
Battery is back on the bike and reading 41.3 v on the stand and full throttle.
I'll still keep track on what it can and can't do with me on it.
Had a bit of a panic as when I first clipped it in place it took a minute or two to get from 32v to 41.8v.
This bike might spend more time in my garage than in a forest but I am already Enjoying the mechanics/electric side of these bikes.
Might get a cheeky ride tomorrow weather dependent. There's a good chance I'm already paronoid about volts just glad I don't own an electric car!
 

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Underlayunderlay

Pedelecer
Oct 16, 2019
37
8
Dorset
Oh no... Been mending stuff in the garage and thought I'd check the battery before I went indoors and it's 36.7 to 9 v .. 3 black bars and it's still on the repair stand.
Is the battery duff?
36.3v as I text this..
 
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Had the bike been left turned on while the voltage was dropping from 41.3 to 34.3V?
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
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But apart from any checks, please get in touch without delay with the dealer you bought it from or Oxygen, since you say you bought it new.

Clearly a battery should not behave like this. Oxygen are a good company and will look after you.
.
 
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flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
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Can I direct e-bikes direct to here so they can see the way it's un folded? A link address?
Yes, the link below in the first line will direct them to the first post in your thread:


You need to pursue an immediate repair by part replacement, since it's probable either your battery or charger are faulty.
.
 
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Underlayunderlay

Pedelecer
Oct 16, 2019
37
8
Dorset
Yes, the link below in the first line will direct them to the first post in your thread:


You need to pursue an immediate repair by part replacement, since it's probable either your battery or charger are faulty.
.
Thank you