Help! Just got my first ebike (ADO A20F)

[Nealh]

If using max assistance continuous then range will be poor, the only way one gets the claimed makers range is by using low assistance and low speed.

 

[Legend20le]

Whenever I'm low on battery (on low assistance level) I maintain a very high cadence and a very low gear... that gets me home, the motor is more efficient at high cadence, but mine is a mid-drive.

Just had to Google what "Cadence" means...I'm a noob, don't judge!

Actually on my last ride I did the same distance as my first 2 rides and covered 6 miles but I only used the lowest level of assist on this one as on the previous 2 I had gone as fast as was possible in the highest level of assist, the battery afterwards was looking a lot healthier having used nowhere near the half that was used on my first 2 rides, so I'm pretty confident that the bike will be able to cover my commute.

Thanks for the advice though Guerney it's much appreciated.

 

[Legend20le]

If using max assistance continuous then range will be poor, the only way one gets the claimed makers range is by using low assistance and low speed.

I'm starting to understand that now, in low assistance I was getting around 9mph and it wasn't strenuous but I was definitely getting some exercise which will do me good and it was enjoyable.

I'm really happy with it at the moment and when I'm not using the car for work and start saving some £££ I will be extremely happy

 

[Nealh]

The bikes original top speed is 25mph/40km/h, which means the motor winding/rpm speed is at least 400rpm as it is in a 20" wheel. If the same rpm hub is used in the so called 250w hub (which I expect is rubbish and is still 500w), the hub will be running at a non optimal speed as 17mph is only 27km/h. This means the hub will be running inefficiently and some of wattage will be wasted as heat, either at the controller or the motor.
One can tell if heat loss is a factor from the controller by feeling it for temperature, the motor would need an internal temp sensor to verify heat as it will have many air voids and these are poor at conducting heat outwards to the hub shell.

 

[Nealh]

I'm starting to understand that now, in low assistance I was getting around 9mph and it wasn't strenuous but I was definitely getting some exercise which will do me good and it was enjoyable.

I'm really happy with it at the moment and when I'm not using the car for work and start saving some £££ I will be extremely happy

The bike will be using speed control, the power will be the same in all power levels. What differs is each power level will have a max set speed, speed is the range killer with these type of speed control systems.

 

[Vim Fuego]

"pedelec (from pedal electric cycle) or EPAC (Electronically Power Assisted Cycles), is a type of electric bicycle where the rider's pedalling is assisted by a small electric motor;"

A twist and go is a electronic motorcycle.. if you can move without pedalling, it's not a pedelec

 

[BazP]

"pedelec (from pedal electric cycle) or EPAC (Electronically Power Assisted Cycles), is a type of electric bicycle where the rider's pedalling is assisted by a small electric motor;"

A twist and go is a electronic motorcycle.. if you can move without pedalling, it's not a pedelec

As I understood the op, that facility was disabled, so—-

 

[Nealh]

"pedelec (from pedal electric cycle) or EPAC (Electronically Power Assisted Cycles), is a type of electric bicycle where the rider's pedalling is assisted by a small electric motor;"

A twist and go is a electronic motorcycle.. if you can move without pedalling, it's not a pedelec

Not quite correct...
Countries can apply concessions within their laws but these aren't universal, the EU as a whole has banned them.

The UK has/had some concessions regarding throttles to enable a bike still to be a pedelec/epac, on pre 2016 bikes they were and are still legal and now there is legal route to having one via mvsa testing and certification as LP 250w pedelec as long as the speed is also 25km/h. Stand alone twist and go isn't permitted legally but one can have an operational one under the pedal first route and it must cut out once pedalling ceases.

 

[guerney]

If you have a throttle which operates completely independently of the PAS, as far as I am aware it must be limited to 6km/h, to be UK legal. Sad but true. I removed my throttle, the BBS01b works fine without... but I do miss it on hill starts and sudden stops if I'm in too high a gear. I've never read of anyone's bike being seized because of a throttle.

 

[Legend20le]

Update...

Went back to work today after my Christmas holidays

The good news though is I used my ebike

It worked out altogether just under 12 miles, I used pedal assist 2 (highest level) doing on average of around 12mph and off a full charge I managed to get back with 2 bar's left on the battery!

I'm made up, wish I had got one sooner, my bike is now charging as I will be using it tomorrow and everyday from now on, whether permitting

Thanks for all the help and advice!

 

[slowcoach]

That is good to know. You obviously enjoyed the experience. The best bit is, Traffic jams? What traffic jams?

 

[Legend20le]

That is good to know. You obviously enjoyed the experience. The best bit is, Traffic jams? What traffic jams?

That's it, It takes about the same time as it does in the car as I'm sat in traffic half the time.

 

[AndyBike]

the only way one gets the claimed makers range is by using low assistance and low speed.

Sadly and misleadingly theres more to it than that(Heath knows, this is for the OP)
Claimed range is calculated using the lightest rider, in a wind free environment, on the smoothest of tarmac, with zero inclines, in the height of summer, with no extra clothes or luggage. Probably not even so much as a multitool or bike pump being carried.
In the real world thats not how the bike would ever be utilized.
That bikes claimed range in miles is about 24, with the above criteria, and the damned thing weighs 34kg.

 

[sjpt]

Exactly as AndyBike says above. Rule of thumb is that realistic (eg tour mode on average roads) riding conditions reduce the range to about 1/3 of the best 'up to' (eco, flat, windless, slow, etc) range. For hard riding reduce it yet more.

https://www.bosch-ebike.com/en/service/range-assistant/ gives a good idea of variation by conditions, and with a little interpretation a good idea overall for any ebike whether Bosch powered or not. Playing around with the parameters you will see 'up to' ranges of a bit over 100 miles on a 400wh battery on an 'average' bike, realistic ranges around 35 miles on the same bike.

 

[Legend20le]

Another update.

Recently bought some Zoom hybrid hydraulic brakes and I have to say I'm really impressed, they cost £45 and have made a massive difference to the stopping power over the mechanical one's that were fitted as standard, only took about 20 minutes to fit and I would recommend them to anybody with a heavy bike like mine!

Also bought a Dripex Gel Bike Seat for £16 and it's been a massive improvement in comfort over the standard one, only I have had a problem with the bracket that holds it onto the post, it was moving when going over bumps after the first ride, and then I overtightened it and threaded the bolts, just changed the bracket for the one that came on the bike originally but haven't had chance to test it yet but will keep you posted, that is anyone that's interested.

If anyone has any tips on securing the seat/saddle properly then I would love to hear from you?

 

[Legend20le]

Choice of tyres can make a big difference, I replaced the off-road knobbly tyres on my mountain bike for semi-slick tyres (same size) and it's a lot easier to pedal on the tarmac/gravel tracks I use - so the battery lasts longer.
If you're not a regular cyclist your fitness levels will improve rapidly with regular rides, so the battery has less work to do and lasts longer...
Have fun, keep us updated

I noticed something odd the other day with my front tyre, the direction arrow on it is pointing the wrong way, some helpful person at the factory has put it on back to front!

Will this have any effect on battery life or no big deal?

 

[matthewslack]

I noticed something odd the other day with my front tyre, the direction arrow on it is pointing the wrong way, some helpful person at the factory has put it on back to front!

Will this have any effect on battery life or no big deal?

NBD.

 

[Legend20le]

Are you sure it's the tyre, or have the forks been rotated 180 and facing the wrong way?

I'm pretty sure it's the tyre.

 

[cyclebuddy]

Oops. I deleted that comment when I was going to add...

On knobblies, it doesn't make a lot of difference I guess. The only time I came across that the whole fork/stem/handlebar had been rotated.

Recently bought some Zoom hybrid hydraulic brakes and I have to say I'm really impressed,

I fitted the Zoom HB-100's on my Fiido D11 a few weeks ago. I find they are better than the mechanicals, but not quite the same as a proper hydraulic set. If the cables are routed outside the frame (which mine aren't), I'd definitely do that.

 

[Legend20le]

I fitted the Zoom HB-100's on my Fiido D11 a few weeks ago. I find they are better than the mechanicals, but not quite the same as a proper hydraulic set. If the cables are routed outside the frame (which mine aren't), I'd definitely do that.

I just changed the calipers, used the original cables as they were and they work 100% better, for £45 and not having to mess around changing the brake levers and cables, then losing the motor cut off on the originals, I think there a great value upgrade with an easy install.